Marvin's notes: We started the day by finding our way into Middelburg, then on to the ferry, 6 1/2 km on the ferry and then finding our way to a campground just outside of Brugge.
From the time the day starts and you strike camp until you climb back into your tent at a new location at the end of the day so much happens. We see so many things, meet so many kind and wonderful people that by the end of the day it is easy to forget all that happened. I say this to acknowledge what a rich experience this is, not to point out my aging brain!
We started the day by cycling back through Veere and on to Middelburg.
It is great to start a bright warm day on such a beautiful trail in the shade. While in the shade the Garmin GPS recorded down to 19 Celsius and up to 29 when sitting in the sun
Marvin : When we reached the harbour area we stopped to get our bearings and look around a bit. I loved the bike parking here, especially since I was still operating without a kickstand
Back to Erika's narrative: Middelburg was a delight. There we met Michel, a university professor who noticed us checking our map. He shared with us what he thought we should make sure to see in the city. He lead us to a narrow street that historically had been where the barrels of olive oil would be brought into the city for security.
It was so very lovely and, according to Michel, it is not in any tourist guides. We could see where the hoists had once been to hoist the barrels into the storage houses. The large doors that would be opened to receive the olive oil were on each floor of the building.
The alley would be closed off at night for security back in the day
Michel then led us to the square around the large church and made sure we could find the market square for getting some lunch. With a warm good bye and best wishes, Michel was off on his way.
The church was a huge and impressive structure. The interior was open to the public and the inner areas had been changed over the years to support a museum, a church, areas for musical performance and many other community uses. Due to the adaptations made within the structure, the actual age of the building really came home when you looked onto the ground and saw and the tomb markers. There was even the tomb of the king of Zeeland in the 1300s.
On our way to the big cathedral we noted some doors that have family representations on them
In the square was also a shop that I guess would be like our BCAA but with a larger retail area. We were able to get needed maps for navigating Belgium by bike. We also picked up a few other odds and ends. The staff were amazingly helpful, kind and supportive. One of the clerks was even willing to fill our water bottle from the staff area one floor up.
Purchases in hand we made our way to the Market square. On one end stands the very impressive city hall.
All around the edges are lovely shops. We quickly managed to find a bakery that also makes fresh sandwiches on their freshly made buns. The young woman behind the counter was delightful as she struggles to speak English and help us out. The line of people behind us were very patient and seemed to enjoy the game of charades we had going with the clerk.
The sandwiches were great, and it was fun to sit outside the bakery and watch the world go by all around. Sandwiches eaten and fluids on board, Marvin decided it was now time to go back into the bakery and purchase a treat for later! Who was I to argue!!
We then cycled on to Vlissingen where we caught the bicycle and foot passenger ferry to Breskens. In recent years a tunnel under the Westerschelde has been built for automobiles but for cyclists and pedestrians, the ferry is the mode of transport to get back on the main land.
Prior to getting on the ferry we did treat ourselves to an ice cream sundae. While I cannon claim to have suffered too much, I have decided I do not really care for the Dutch ice-cream. It is a soft serve made with a very cream rich mixture. For me it is too rich without being particularly flavorful. No worries, in just over a week we will be enjoy the Eis cafes of Germany!
Note another buried cannon barrel used as a boat tie up
We are now on the ferry. I didn't get any pictures of getting on because Erika had ordered an Eis treat and we got it just as we needed to board so my hands were full. It was an easy boarding, a wide long enclosed ramp leading right on to a large ferry with wide level bike parking. (see last picture of this section)
The last few days we have done a fair bit of cycling along the west coast. The wind is unrelenting but, when it is at your back, it is a lot of fun and gives you a real boost. The scenery of the coast was beautiful and it became really apparent that the Dutch love their beaches and the sun. Every type of water sport imaginable was happening. Also, as it is Friday, the beaches and paths were busy with people enjoying the bright blue skies.
The ferry ride was nice. To give you some idea of the wind, for the first time ever, my Da Brim got blown off my helmet.
Our da Brims have captured a lot of attention. Most people here do not even wear helmets so for them to see our large colorful da Brims causes one of several reactions. First, and probably the most common, laughter. Second, strange looks. Third, questions about the brims and where we are from.
Once off the ferry we continued to cycle along the coast until our need to get to our camping area drove us inland. We have definitely learned that when cycling near the dunes it is necessary to dismount and push your bike through the occasional area of deep sand. I can tell you, that is work. Pushing a fully loaded bike through several inches of sand is hard work!
At this point we are just leaving Sluis and still in Holland, We begin to cycle right beside the canal for about 10 km. We don't know it but after the first km we enter Belgium
Having left the coast, we enjoyed our cycle south west along a large canal. One stretch was lined with large poplar trees that seemed to be standing at attention. The trees were large and obviously had been there for decades. They reminded me of one of our biology professors who is originally from Europe, telling me that she was almost in her teens before she realized that in the wild trees don’t grow in a straight line. We enjoyed the treats Marvin purchased.
Following our treats, we headed on towards the camp site. A challenge we had today was that our maps do not have the detail needed to find a street address so, having programed the needed info into Google maps, we would stop regularly to see if they would give us directions to the camping. During one of our stops a couple stopped to see if we needed help. When we explained what we were looking for the lady laughed and said, “follow me.” She then led us all the way to our camp site. So very kind and helpful.
One last highlight of the day. Today we heard an actual cuckoo. Apparently, it is the male cuckoo who calls out coo-coo, coo-coo. Neither of us had ever heard one in the wild before so it was a real treat. Marvin did try to record the call, but I am guessing the ever blowing wind made it hard to hear.
So, now it is time to head to the land of nod. In the morning we will be heading into Bruges and then on to Ghent.
Life is good on a bike with your sweetheart!
Today's ride: 71 km (44 miles) Total: 457 km (284 miles)
