Day 7: ABC Mountain Retreat to Elgin

September 12, 2023

The smoky log cabin was 59F in the morning. Temperature in the 30's outside, but I didn't start a fire in the stove. I heated water in the microwave to make tea and 2 mini-bowls of Bob's Red Mill fancy oatmeal. I wasn't eager for a long cold descent, so I waited until 9:15 to get on the road when the temperature was in the upper 40's.

Today was supposed to be the mountain highlight of the tour, pedaling over the Blue Mountains to Elgin with 4 summits near 5000 feet elevation. 29 miles with 1700 feet of ascent and 3100 feet of descent. I know I could do it-I already did 3/4 of the climb to the highest summit.

Unfortunately the road is closed 15 miles ahead near the final summit. When leaving ABC Mountain Retreat I stopped on the highway to verify online that OR 204 is still closed, with no announced reopening time.

I have no choice but to backtrack and find alternate transportation. I pedaled a couple miles down the highway to get a better wireless signal, then tried to reserve a U Haul truck. The reservations app showed an available truck, but then the truck wasn't actually available at check-out. I called a representative who confirmed that no 1-way box truck rentals are available in Milton-Freewater or Pendleton (because of the Round-Up). But she quickly found a 15-foot box truck in College Place, Washington which is 10 downstream miles north of Milton-Freewater.

I wanted to return the truck in Elgin but Elgin doesn't have a U Haul dealer. I have to return the truck in La Grande, then bike 21 easy miles to the reserved lodging in Elgin.

First I have to pedal from ABC Mountain Retreat to College Place. 29 miles with a 3200 foot net descent. Back to the low desert.

The descent was familiar but it's nice to have the valley views in front of me instead of behind me.

This old barn is now a fancy rental event center.

I pedaled through Milton-Freewater on OR 11. Downhill all the way, with a decent shoulder. North of Milton-Freewater OR 11 is a divided highway with sprawling rural development that is rare in Oregon because Urban Growth Boundaries prohibit new rural development.

The divided highway turns into a controlled access expressway in the state of Washington. Then it has no sprawling development because the land doesn't have highway access.

I crossed the Walla Walla river for the last time. Now in the middle of the valley at only 600 feet elevation.

I exited the expressway into the town of College Place which has a large Adventist population because it's the home of an Adventist University. College Place is sort of a western suburb of the larger city of Walla Walla.

College Place is just west of Walla Walla, Washington.

The ride from ABC Mountain Retreat to College Place is 29 miles with 320 feet of ascent and 3520 feet of descent. I wanted to pedal higher but was forced to backtrack and go much lower.

In downtown College Place I stopped for lunch at the bakery, then pedaled another 5 blocks to rent a U Haul truck from a Mexican market. The 15 foot box truck was the smallest available. The pickup process was fast and easy. I drove away at 1:26 PM and drove the U Haul truck 90 miles to La Grande, Oregon. Mostly on OR 11 and I-84. Similar to the route I pedaled on days 2 and 4, but on main highways instead of mostly back roads.

I stopped in La Grande to buy fuel, then returned the U Haul truck at a more traditional looking U Haul dealer on the southeast side of La Grande. Total cost of the rental+fuel was more $200. The road closure was very expensive but I didn't break the chain of lodging reservations.

I pedaled away from the U Haul dealer at 3:30 PM. To save time and energy I took OR 82 directly from La Grande to Elgin. 21 miles straight and relatively flat in the middle of the valley, with moderate traffic and a usable paved shoulder.

I had great views of the Wallowa mountains to the east. Not such great views looking into the sun at the Blue mountains to the west.

Sunflowers with Blue mountains in the distance to the west.

Farm at the foot of the northern Wallowa mountains.

OR 82 goes through the middle of the small farm town of Imbler. It has a historic market and a couple of historic churches.

The 1878 Imbler Church housed Southern Methodist and Cambellite congregations on alternate Sundays.

The highway stays mostly in the low flat areas that are suitable for irrigation. I passed a few irrigated farms. Then a 200 foot climb just before Elgin to cross a saddle between the Wallowa and Blue mountains.

Near Elgin I crossed the Grande Ronde river once again. From here the river flows northeast through deep canyons to the Snake river.

I stopped to have look at the Elgin Stampede rodeo grounds. The rodeo takes place in July. This small town rodeo is very different from the giant Pendleton Round-Up. I think the small town rodeo might be more fun (and much cheaper) than the slick professional rodeo.

The Elgin Stampede rodeo is far smaller than the Pendleton Round-Up rodeo.

Shadows were getting long when I arrived in Elgin at 6 PM. I'll have better sunshine tomorrow morning. I wandered around the downtown area which doesn't take long because it's only 4 blocks long. Everything looks clean and tidy.

I stopped to look at the locally famous Elgin Opera House and City Hall.

Railroad tracks go through the middle of Elgin. The railroad tracks are still used for freight trains and for the Eagle Cap Excursion Train tourist railroad.

Eagle Cap Railroad, a tourist excursion train.

From several blocks away I noticed the distinctive tall narrow spire of a LDS church, so I walked over to have a look.

I spotted the unique steeple of the LDS church from a distance.

I had dinner at the Elgin Station Grill & Bar which was the only open restaurant in Elgin, population 1614.

Elgin doesn't have a motel. Tonight I stay at the only lodging in town, Mays Place Bed and Breakfast. Built in 1890. It has 5 guest rooms. I was upgraded to the only room with a private bath, with an incredibly small shower.

The 1890 Bed and Breakfast has 4 upstairs guest rooms. I have the only downstairs guest room. The room doesn't have a single chair. Fortunately I have many chairs to choose from just outside the door in the parlor.

My bedroom has a tiny private bath but no chair.

Plenty of chairs in the parlor just outside my bedroom door.

Today had a high temperature of 80F in La Grande. Definitely cooler than the low desert. I enjoyed walking around in the cool evening.

Thanks to a road closure I rented a truck and pedaled a long distance on routes I didn't want to pedal. But I'm on schedule to complete the remainder of the tour as planned.

This was not my first road closure during a bike tour. But it was by far the longest and most expensive detour to get around a road closure.

Distance: 49.6 miles
Average Speed: 12.8 mph
Ascent/Descent: +633/-3828 feet

Today's ride: 50 miles (80 km)
Total: 239 miles (385 km)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	6
Comment on this entry	Comment	0