Calpe - Take Two - Springtime Spin in Southern Spain

June 4, 2024

Calpe - Take Two

Today was undoubtably the most fun day of this year’s tour. We left the bags behind and rode out and back to the summit of the Col de Rates, climbing a vertical of 1042m in 64km.

Our love for riding in the mountains was spawned by a ride up Mt. Ventoux in 2016, which was the biggest biking challenge either of us had ever tackled. As we sumitted the mountain on an almost wind-less day, a French fighter jet swooped just over our heads at god-knows-what-speed. I jumped and shrieked with joy and took it as a congratulations of sorts. Unforgettable!

The thrill of that adventure opened a new chapter of cycling for us and we entered a world we’d not known much about, up to then. In the recreational cycling world, it’s known as col-bagging, travelling the world to ride big mountains, especially those that are included in the grand tours, such as the Tour de France, the Vuelta d’Espagna and the Giro d’Italia. Col, by the way, is simply the French word for mountain pass.

We were bitten by the bug that year and have tried to include a significant climb, or two or three, on each of our tours. We don’t qualify as col-baggers but over the years, we have ridden the Col du Tourmalet, Col de la Croix de Fer, Col d’Aspin, Col de Portet d’Aspet, Col du Lauteret, Col du Galibier, Col D’Allos, the Alpe d’Huez, Cold’Aubisque, Col du Peyresourde, Puig Major, Sa Callobra and some other less well-known cols. Notably absent from the list is the Stelvio. We’re ageing so who knows how long we can do this, but maybe it’s time to consider that one?

This ride has been on my radar since last November. The climb starts out at a pleasant 5% grade and about half way it kicks up to 8%, with a few 10’s thrown in for good measure. All the while, the view of the valley below, smattered with small villages, grows ever more spectacular. It’s a well-loved ride and today, we had the pleasure to experience it.

But, let’s take it from the top and start with breakfast. Lucky for us, our hotel offered a full breakfast buffet so we headed there first thing. Then we headed for the hills. The first part of the ride took us up some crazy grades through a neighbourhood of mansions with swimming pools. We stopped several times because the grades were over 10% and, from our vantage point, we could look down on these very pricey homes. The views over Calpe were spectacular too.

These hills were steep! So much so, we had to walk. It was a warm day and by the time we reached the top, we were dripping with sweat.

Eventually we crested the hill and jumped back on the bikes. We had a great view in both directions. In front of us was the Vall de Pop with its vineyards, and the town of Bennissa.

That’s the Sierra de Bernia in the distance.

A second mural along the way, in Senija.

A third mural. Sure brightens up the town.

We had been advised by the gal at the Service Course to go through Xalo en route to the Coll de Rates and stop at the Velosol biking bar/cafe, which we did on the return.

Xalo had a large art metal grape cluster at the entrance signifying that this is a historic wine producing region.

Art metal sculpture in Xalo’s point-rond.

Our ride up the Coll de Rates started in a small, sleepy town called Parcent. To get there, we rode through another small town, Alcalali. The road was by no means flat, so we were constantly climbing and descending. We were accompanied by a good number of cyclists all day, everyone with a similar goal but varying levels of fitness.

Alcalali, from part way up the Col de Rates.

The wind had been nudging us along in places and crossing our path in others. We secretly hoped we would have some wind to keep us cool for the ascent and it did not let us down. As we climbed the hill, I was surprised how gentle the grade felt. It was well within both of our abilities and made for a really enjoyable ride.

We reached a mirador just below the actual summit and stopped for a look at the view. The valley itself is green with almonds and vineyards and we could see all the small towns we had passed through. In the distance were several impressive sierra’s and the Mediterranean Sea.

Taken from a viewpoint just below the summit.

Cols in France and in Italy are marked with signs denoting the name and elevation, but there was no such sign for the Coll de Rates. It was a bit of a surprise, but we made do with the sign outside the restaurant. For the record, the elevation is 927m and the average grade is 5%.

Coll de Rates restaurant has a killer view from the patio.

This col is unusual in that it comes with an add-on if you haven’t already had enough. A narrow concrete path 3km in length leads up to a Fire Prevention Lookout Tower at the summit of Tossal dels Diners. It’s super steep and more suited to hiking than cycling for most people.

For those who must carry on to the very top, there is a 3km trail to the forestry lookout.

This area suffered a forest fire last year. Luckily, the restaurant survived. You can see the affected trees in the photo below. I cannot imagine how stressful it is here in the hot season. Everywhere appears to be at risk of going up in flames in an instant.

Looking down the valley, to the west lies Tarbena.

After a short time at the summit, we turned around and cruised to the bottom. I timed it at 11 minutes. The wind had picked up considerably, so we were extra careful on the hairpins where the gusts could deliver a good sideswipe and easily knock us sideways. Then, we carried on through Parcent and Alcalali, and on to Xalo for lunch at Velosol, which is is no ordinary cafè.

There is so much cycling paraphernalia at Velosol, it’s like a living museum of cycling. What makes it special is the pro’s frequent it during their training in the winter months. There are all sorts of signed jerseys, posters, photos, and heck, even someone’s shoes! Some of the tables had been signed and there is a set of wooden panels where the pro’s sign their names. Fun fact: the Belgian cyclocross champion, Eli Iserbyt, was on the coll yesterday and stopped by to sign the board. Near Benissa, he passed us and gave us a friendly wave and a Hola!

So, how is the food at Velosol? Great! We had smoothies and sandwiches. The salads also looked excellent. Here are a few photos from the cafè.

Remco Evenepoel’s Belgian TT world championship jersey (2023)

If you look closely, you can see our little 20” wheels hanging from the rack with all the road bikes.

It’s likely that all these cyclists did the coll today.

The historic collection of jerseys hang from the walls and the ceiling.

We overstayed our welcome at the Velosol and then it was time to blast back to Calpe. No photos from this section as we were in a highway and focussed on riding safely.

David filmed the ride today and compiled this video for your enjoyment.

Back at the hotel we rested and watched the end of the Dauphine bike race. It was a thrilling finish as a Canadian, Derek Gee, won the stage and took the yellow jersey. What an accomplishment. Go Canada, go!

Derek Gee had an ear to ear smile during his interviews for his stage win.

We headed out to dinner at a small family-run restaurant just steps away from the hotel. It was another excellent dinner and a great way to top off this memorable day.

An evening stroll along the beach topped off the day.

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Today's ride: 63 km (39 miles)
Total: 984 km (611 miles)

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Patty BarronWhat an amazing riding day for you both! With enough challenges & great joy in the accomplishment at the end of the day.
! Velosol seems an unbelievably appropriate place for you! So full of fascinating cycling items & mementos ! It was probably hard to do it all justice in the time you had?
Andale 🚴 🚴
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5 months ago

Anne MathersTo Patty BarronOh, yes, sweet memories all around. 🚴‍♀️😍
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5 months ago