Completion of TEMBR had to wait..

October 30, 2022

I'd hoped to spend a night in Podocarpus and then ride to Vilcabamba to officially finish TEMBR. Instead, I ended up spending 4-5 days in Podocarpus after tasting it's beauty and how rarely it gets crowded. Podocarpus is a heaven for orchids, birds and animals. I spent time wandering many trails hoping to see birds who's calls I heard all the time. Unfortunately, I didn't have the patience to wait and catch a glimpse of the birds or binoculars to see through thick rain forest. After paying a bit more of attention, I was able to see tons of orchids on trails I had walked before.

One of the many orchids I encountered on Miradores hike

Another wild orchid close to Ranger Station

Another wild orchid on the midarore trail

In the Park, I made friends with security guards who bought me food from the town as my emergency supply was very limited. No food is available in the park and nearest store is 2-3 hours on the bike. On a hike one day, I met some Lojanos who recommended me other beautiful trails, other parks to see rare birds, orchids and highly recommended that I attend the International Festival of Live Arts of Loja that was some 2 weeks away. I will write more on that in a following blog.

I was lucky enough to share this meal with the guards of Podocarpus National Park

Following experience on Circuito de miradores shook my confidence in own hiking capabilities.

While hiking down the Tapir mirador, I encountered a group that consisted of 2 youngsters (some 10,15 year olds), a couple in their middle age and an woman probably in her 60s. None had any back-/fanny pack. So no food, water, flashlights or of any sort of emergency gear. I asked if they needed anything and they said they were all set.

This photo shows some of the roped sections on the Mirador trail.

I have hiked both the Knife's edge of Mount Katahdin and Angel's Landing at Zion National Park twice. And, the miradores trail was atleast 5-times more difficult. This trail was not only very exposed but had many sections of chains, ropes to hold onto like in you encounter on Angel's Landing. But, Miradores trail has longer roped sections, higher elevation and more such tricky, precarious parts. So on this hike, I was fully prepared for any emergency and carried water, food and emergency gear.

The Ecuadorian family were prepared as per their training.

I encountered them at around 3:30-4pm when I was mostly done with the difficult part while they were only getting started with the "hard" part. I was very concerned for them and for a long time afterwards I hoped that I had been more forthcoming with my offer to help. And, I kept hoping that they made it out safely before dark.

I know this had a happy ending based on my interactions with the park rangers but after another experience down the line.

3 of the National Park rangers at Podocarpus National Park.

After 4-5 days in Podocarpus, I headed back to Loja to see what all the fuss about the international festival of live arts was.

In Loja, I met another family like Ruben’s and their names are Joe, María, Alex and Paula. Joe operates Hotel Miraflores and works just as hard as Ruben. I asked him if he needed help with Airbnb and he said he already had an Airbnb account but instead needed assistance with booking.com So, we set one up, practiced English and then he offered me free stay in exchange for that work. I couldn't accept that after having seen how hard he and Maria worked. He's so excited whenever he gets new reservations through booking.com

Today's ride: 15 miles (24 km)
Total: 1,716 miles (2,762 km)

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