Tikal

October 25, 2021 to October 27, 2021

October 25th, 2021

A journal we had read had suggested a steep climb to be negotiated as one left El Remate. The climb of about two hundred and ten meters was there but it was not half as bad as we were expecting. There was also one more climb of about eighty meters once we reached the National Park itself but this was also easily rideable.

We have seen a number of these signs which refer to CODECA, an organization dedicated improving the rights of the rural poor. The slogan reads "200 years of robbery, impoverishment, persecution and assassination".

Climbing the first hill. Thank goodness for the shade.

Inside the park huge trees kept us cooler.

In fact it was a very relaxed and pleasant ride. We stopped often to enjoy the forest and to do some birding. We had some great sightings at one particular stream where Green Kingfishers (Chloroceryle americana) were feeding, amongst a number of other birds including Black-and-white Warbler (Mniotilta varia). We also watched a Squirrel Cuckoo (Piaya cayana) trying to grab some prey with its bill and using its body weight to dislodge it from the branch to which it was clinging. But the best was still to come.

At the gates to the park, about seventeen kilometers from Tikal itself, we stopped to buy tickets for Tikal, Uaxactun and the museums at both these archaeological zones. They are not shy with their prices. We paid 460Q but the tickets are valid for any one of the next thirty days. We plan to do Tikal tomorrow, the Tikal museum the next day and then Uaxactun and its museum on the third day. We’re not sure yet if we will cycle up Uaxactun and spend a night there or to try and find transport from Tikal itself.

Once we arrived at Tikal we stopped at the first comedor for a late second breakfast/early lunch. While we were waiting for our food to arrive three Rufous-naped Wood-Rails (Aramides albiventris) strolled nonchalantly past our table. Then a Collared Aracari (Pteroglossus torquatus) arrived and preened in front of us for a few minutes. Followed by a Montezuma Oropendola (Psarocolius mentezuma), which must surely be the wierdest looking Blackbird.

Russet-naped wood-rail (Aramides albiventris)

Collared aracari (Pteroglossus torquatus) - look at the hairy tongue !

Collared aracari (Pteroglossus torquatus)

We are staying at Hotel Jaguar right next to the entrance to the archeological zone. It looks like we will be here for at least three nights.

October 26th, 2021

Today was one of the best of this trip so far. We are still suffering from sensory overload.

We were at the archaeological zone checkpoint at one minute past six and spent almost an hour on our own in the park before we saw any other tourists. We were knocked over by some wonderful birding, animals we had not expected to see and the absolute splendour of Tikal. It was hard work at times because our eye struggle in the gloom and the dappled forest light made photography difficult.

What makes Tikal so special is its jungle setting. Similar but different to Pelenque and with significantly more bird and animal life (you can include mosquitoes in this lot too). It is on a much larger scale and there is a lot of walking required. We spent almost six hours in the archeological zone this morning and went back for more after lunch and a short rest.

The afternoon was more relaxed and we mostly just soaked up the atmosphere. Once again we practically had the place to ourselves and we feel really privileged that we could enjoy it in this way.

First animal of the day, a few Central American Agoutis (Dasyprocta punctata)

Very little is left of stellae or any other carvings for that matter.

Apart from the newer ones created by morons.

One of the few heads in good condition still in situ.

Grey Fox (Urocyon cinereoargenteus). This was the biggest suprise because the first two we saw were right at the top of the Temple of the Mask. They scampered down the steep sides like mountain goats.

Keel-billed Toucans (Ramphastos sulfuratus). There are so many of them at Tikal.

Montezuma Oropendola (Psarocolius montezuma). Their call was so confusing, almost a sound of large leaves falling through the trees.

A female Thick-billed Seed Finch (Sporophila funerea).

Looking back to the Temple of the Grand Jaguar

Geoffroy’s Spider Monkey (Ateles geoffroyi)

Ocellated Turkey (Meleagris ocellata) combine beauty and the beast in a single creature.

The Temple of the Grand Jaguar in the late afternoon.

We spent about an hour at the main plaza in the afternoon and there was only one other couple there during that time. Naturally, we took photographs for each other.

October 27th, 202

We were exhausted after our long day yesterday so we had a late lie in. We had decided to move digs because the Hotel Jaguar where we were staying was really badly run and the hostel at Jungle Inn looked so much better and it had a swimming pool !

So after checking out we cycled up to the comedor where we have been eating lately to enjoy breakfast before spending the rest of the morning in the two slightly disappointing museums. The big problem is that all of the good stuff has been removed and is in the USA or Europe. How good it would have been to be able to see all the stellae and carvings in situ.

This photo shows how the forest had been cleared to facilitate the first excavations.

One of the few reasonably good stellae left at Tikal.

Then it was back to the comedor for lunch where we had another nice birding moment.

Summer Tanager (Piranga rubra) next to our lunch table.

After lunch we cycled to our new digs with a short stop to take in an unexpected intruder.

Petén Crocodile (Cocodrilo moreletii) crossing the lawn.

It took shelter under this little bridge.

Our new digs were very good with a lovely pool and a decent restaurant with reasonable prices. My advice is to head to the Jungle Inn and avoid Hotel Jaguar if you ever come this way.

Today's ride: 36 km (22 miles)
Total: 1,788 km (1,110 miles)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	7
Comment on this entry	Comment	0