October 15, 2020
New Columbia to Canton
The Long and Climbing Road
My hotel was in New Columbia, about 5 miles North of Lewisburg. Since I had nearly 70 miles to cover, the latter half of which were uphill, I decided not to backtrack to Lewisburg. I got an earlier start, which turned out to be the right call because I needed every minute of daylight available to reach my destination for the day... but I won't get ahead of the story.
From New Columbia, I headed Northward, on the West Shore of the Susquehanna, using Old Route 15. The morning air was cool but the sun was out and the forecast called for an unseasonably high temperature of near 80 degrees (Fahrenheit). My first goal was to reach Watsontown and rejoin the J-Trail. It turned out to be a good choice, as did using Detrick and Harbeson Roads to further "socially distance" myself from traffic. White Deer Pike and West Brimmer Road took me over to Watsontown, on the Eastern Shore of the Susquehanna.
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Watsontown is similar to Northumberland in that the J-Trail planners signed the route along the picturesque but tight main street and business district through town. However, there are some perfectly good alternatives for cycling. To paraphrase Robert Frost, "I chose Elm Street, and it made all the difference." The parallel Elm Street runs to about 10th Street and then you have to turn and rejoin the main drag, SR-405, which is also Bicycle Route J. Once again, by this point, you're out of the business district fray, so the situation is calmer. If any services are needed when passing through, the cyclist need only ride a block or two to access them.
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A little further North, the town of Dewart is reached. The signage takes you off of SR-405, on a short jog, though the little village and then onto the very quiet River Road. There is a distinctive blue house that catches my eye everytime I pass through the area and I have to get a photo. I'm not sure I'd like to live in a blue house, but since there is nothing else quite like it in the area, the resident could not be accused of being a conformist.
River Road is an infinitely more peaceful and enjoyable road to ride on than is the roughy parallel SR-405. It runs for several miles before joining the highway a little to the South of Montgomery. Along the way, there is a farm with camels. They are better seen from SR-405, on which I have traveled in an automobile, in the past.
The Susquehanna is crossed again and this time, the J-Trail is actually signed for a residential road running parallel to the main drag. Somebody who actually rides a bicycle was directing the operation when this part of the route was being laid out. SR-405 is very narrow through town and there is steady traffic, including semi tractor trailers that move along swiftly. By comparison, the parallel residential street has virtually no traffic.
The road rejoins SR-405 and remains on it all the way to Muncy. The highway has a good shoulder, so I felt safe, even though it is a main road through the area. Along it are many places of industry and business. As such, it carries a steady volume of fast moving traffic. Without the shoulder, riding a bicycle would not be pleasant.
The Susquehanna River is crossed again, shortly before reaching the Borough of Muncy. There is a commemorative sign for the Last Raft Tragedy that occurred near here in 1938.
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In town, the J-Trail signage takes the rider to the junction of SR-405 and Main Street but this is not a very bike friendly intersection. Orlando's Restaurant sits near that corner and is a good spot for a meal, if you are in the mood. I've been there many times and have never been disappointed. If the timing is right, Orlie's (in local parlance) is a good stop.
The busy intersection ahead does not have a left turn lane nor does the signal light give you a left turn arrow. To avoid being hung out to dry (while awaiting a break in the stream of vehicles passing you and your skinny bicycle on both sides), turn left before reaching the intersection onto Market Street. You will quietly run parallel to Main before eventually turning right to join its calmer profile and the J-Trail again. I stopped at an abandoned gas station on Main Street for a brief Cliff Bar break and then moved on. I was still feeling a little weary from Tuesday but was refreshed by the little break. My son, who is in the US Army, called me from (the European Country of) Poland, so that was another reason for the stop. It is absolutely amazing to be talking to someone who is part way around the world and sounds like they are standing next to you. The Army has been good for him. He spent 3 years in Alaska and now he is in Europe. I am happy he is getting to see some of these places and to have the experience of serving his country.
Main Street Muncy leads you out to Lycoming Mall Boulevard and the countryside opens up. The terrain has a few small hills to climb but nothing too strenuous. Montoursville is the next significant town that is reached along the J-Trail.
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Route J passes through Montoursville, named for Andrew Montour, an early settler, trader, and Indian Language interpreter. It is also "a suburb" of Williamsport and fittingly, the hometown of Mike Messina, a hall of fame pitcher for the Baltimore Orioles. As you may know, Williamsport is the home of the Little League World Series tournament. The whole area is a baseball hotbed.
On the other side of town, there is another big green bridge along the J-Trail. This one crosses Loyalsock Creek, a tributary of the West Branch of the Susquehanna River. The bridge has a protected sidewalk that can be used to stay out of traffic. Once across, you are headed toward the "big city" of Williamsport.
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Several big highways converge in this area but thankfully, the J-Trail signage takes you onto some lesser traveled roadways closer to the river. There is a combination of bike lanes and a trail that leads through this part of town. I stopped for another short break in the quiet and shady Riverfront Park, where some other people were out walking, running, or biking on this beautiful and warming day.
Route J signage directs riders off of the bike trail and onto some roadways that lead through the heart of Downtown Williamsport. I was routed onto busy and tight West 4th Street, when again, there were other less traveled and parallel roads. One could also stay on the Loyalsock Bikeway to Maynard Street and then go North to reach West 4th... next time.
This part of the ride worked out well because I was in need of another break and happened upon the Tria Prima Tea Company. It had an outside table but on this beautiful day, the front door was open and the air flow was nice. They let me bring my bike inside too... a classy establishment.
I ended up having a nice conversation with a woman who worked for the same outfit as I. She had recently retired after 30 years of service. We had a pleasant time "talking shop." The owners were very nice as well. I recommend the place, if you are in town.
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When the break ended, I rode a little further on West 4th Street but had to get off it, out of the traffic, and onto some parallel roads. These eventually got me onto the Lycoming Creek Bikeway (LCB). The LCB brought me past THE BALLPARK where the Little League World Series is played each year. It looks like a major league ballpark.
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I was able to stay on the LCB for a long way out of town and into the countryside before it ended. Route J then began to follow a secondary state roadway running parallel to the limited access highway, US-15. This was new bicycling territory for me, in Pennsylvania. I had been up this way once before, via automobile, to attend a college football game at Mansfield State, but that was a quarter century ago. I was looking forward to biking here, even though this is also where the climbing would begin.
Thus far, the ride had been very pleasant and relatively level. A look at my Garmin Map for the day showed the "best" was being saved for last. The elevation profile made a significant upswing for the last 25-30 miles. It was going to be a long afternoon, so I settled into my zone.
The road running parallel to US-15 was lightly used. Although I could hear the traffic on 15, since the highway was largely on a cliff well above me, it faded into the background of my consciousness unless a particularly noisy or speeding vehicle came through. The road was often level but some rolling humps began to appear, some with longer climbs than others. It continued that way to the very small village of Trout Run, where my next brief break occurred. There was another Sunoco Gas/Convenience Store with a great selection of eats. Sunocos around Pittsburgh are kind of trashy and I don't usually stop there for food. In this part of the world, it's a whole different story. I would definitely recommend them to a cyclist looking to rest and refuel.
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At Trout Run, the J-Trail is routed onto SR-14, a state highway running through a narrow valley for much of its length. Because it is the only direct road through the area, there is a steady stream of motor vehicle traffic, especially during "my favorite time of the day," the afternoon rush! Here we go again.
There is a shoulder but it seems awfully narrow when viewed from a pick-up truck windshield. I had the opportunity to view it from that alternative perspective a couple of days later. Not being terribly familiar with alternative roads in this area, I acquiesced to follow the state's route to its conclusion and lived to tell the tale!
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SR-14 became my narrow world for the next few hours as I headed into the heart of (a region with political bent opposite of mine - signs everywhere), staying in my lane (literally and figuratively), and climbing toward my destination. The motorists were all very courteous but some of the political signs (stock and homemade) were a tad disturbing. If you're in this part of the world, you simply have to accept that is how things are and do your best to avoid confrontation (which could lead to a case of 'lead poisoning' if you happened upon the wrong person).
The tough afternoon progressed but there were a number of magnificent views of the surrounding hills where the leaves were changing color. They change a little earlier, the further North you go. I stopped occasionally for some photos but had to keep moving so as not to be out on this road after dark. Unexpectedly, I entered Tioga County, one of the Northern Tier Counties in Pennsylvania. I was thinking it lay further to the West but I must've caught its Southeast corner. The road composition changed to an aggregate consistency, which was rougher than the surface had been in Lycoming County. At this point in a long ride, the added bumpiness became a little irritating but there was no reasonable escape from it. A saving grace was that the traffic volume seemed to decrease.
The signage suggested that the community of Ralston loomed in the distance. Eventually, I reached it but other than a few houses, no services were available. I paused briefly, hydrating a bit, and started down the homestretch to my destination for the evening, The Grover Guest House. Somewhere out there, I left Tioga and entered Bradford, which is another of the alluring northern tier of counties in Pennsylvania.
The road continued to wind and climb but the turnoff for Grover Road eventually appeared and I had arrived. After 67 miles and a lot of climbing, I had not seen a store for a while and was dreading an additional ride into Canton to get food. However, the proprietor, Lisa told me she had made dinner and had planned on my joining she and Brian. That was an offer that I could not refuse.
Since supper was ready, I didn't even have time to shower beforehand. They didn't seem to mind at all. These are good people with whom I enjoyed breaking bread and conversing. My belly was full, I was able to shower, a roof was over my head, there was a nice bed to sleep in, so this qualified as another successful day on the road. The weather forecast for tomorrow was for rain and a cool down... nothing we (the Buzz and I) haven't handled before on this trip.
Today's ride: 67 miles (108 km)
Total: 306 miles (492 km)
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8 months ago
It really isn't all that bad but recent political events have polarized people, more so than usual. The best defense is playing good defense by avoiding such confrontations (which usually means keeping one's trap shut).
All that having been said, you could easily bicycle through the wilds of Pennsylvania and have a great time. A lot of us have already done it and lived to tell the tales. The scenery is wonderful. The worst part would be the hills. PA is definitely not flat. But on top, the views are breathtaking.
All the Best, Rich!
Dino
8 months ago
Wow, that was a DeJa'Vu moment for me for sure - that's pretty much how I felt during the entirety of my 2022 Great Rivers South tour. Many (most?) cyclists have green environmental ethics, and that tends to lean towards one of our political parties and away from the other. I'm always courteous to folks while on tour, of course, as are most all touring cyclists. But I have learned that it's absolutely essential to stay away from discussing politics with the locals, and so I do. Those nice folks in the local diner are all driving massive pickup trucks with hunting rifles in the gunracks and pistols in the glovebox - I'd like to feel safe when I ride away from the diner!
8 months ago
8 months ago