Bolzano to Corvara

June 10, 2022

This was one of the toughest rides of the tour. It would easily have been the toughest but we cheated a bit. Or, as I prefer to think of it, we experienced a bit of European cycling infrastructure.

We were on the road at 7, our earliest start yet. Getting out of Bolzano wasn’t too difficult, but we did have a couple of moments: one where the route created in 2019 wanted to put us on the highway (we stuck t9 the bike route) and once where the only way to get to our destination (on a minor highway) was through a 140 m curved tunnel. The tunnel turned out to be okay but that minor highway wasn’t enjoyable. Too many trucks! It seems there are many summer construction projects up in the Siusi area and this is the preferred route in.

There was a 700 m tunnel on the way up to Fiè allo Sciliar but there was a nice ride-around.

Fiè allo Sciliar as seen from the plaza in front of the Tourist Information. Nice public WCs!

We took a break in Fiè allo Sciliar where Al gave the chains some tlc, much needed after our recent rainy ride. Conveniently, the sunny spot he chose was right outside the Tourist Information so I popped in to see if I could get a map or further information about the Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm), where we were headed and where our map provided little information. I’d based this ride on one of the routes in the Lonely Planet Cycling in Italy book, but, since the book has been out of print for some time, I was hoping for something more current.

I came out with a mountain biking map (the book had mentions the route down was more of a mountain bike trail) and the best part was that there’s a cableway you can take up from Siusi to the top—with your bike! Given the traffic on the road, along with today’s planned distance and climbing, no deliberation was needed. And indeed, it was a well-spent 37€ for two adults with two bikes, one way.

[The terminology here is different than at home. There’s a distinction made between a Gondelbahn/cabinovia/gondola and a Seilbahn/funivia/cableway, with the latter being large and the former small. At home they are just “gondolas” with the Grouse Mountain Skyride in a class of its own with its 100-passenger capacity.]

Very pleased we’d decided to take the cableway. Just the two of us and our bikes in the cabin.

The views from the cableway were spectacular, but when we got out at the top, it was jaw-dropping. Even if the ride I’m about to describe doesn’t appeal to you, it would be absolutely worthwhile to come up, go for a hike or ride the paved road at the top, and take the cableway back down. Lots of photos follow!

In the Alpe di Siusi This and the previous photos are just at the top of the cableway in Compaccio.

In the Alpe di Siusi, looking west (the direction we came from) from Compaccio.

In the Alpe di Siusi. There were lots of buttercups but these are different.

In the Alpe di Siusi, just before the road tips down toward Saltria. That’s a hiking path, not the road. The road is asphalt to Saltria.

In the Alpe di Siusi, descending toward Saltria.

The road was paved as far as Saltria. At that point, due to some construction, we had a bit of difficulty finding our route to continue, but the mountain bikers coming up were a clear sign of where to head down.

The muddy construction bit was maybe 50 m, after which it was a decent gravel road. And then, it turned up, steeply enough that even Al decided to walk. It levelled out at a clearing that appeared to be used for log sorting (yes, there’s a bit of timber industry here) and then down steeply with switchbacks. We saw no one going in our direction but several small groups of mountain bikers coming up, plus one couple loaded for bikepacking. They would have had a tough climb!

We eventually emerged onto pavement above Santa Cristina and then turned onto SS 242. Only a short distance on the highway and we turned off to go through Santa Cristina and stop for lunch. Back on our bikes, we continued to Selva Gardena where we picked up a very nice bike path. We noticed that there’s another cableway up Passo Gardena, but we never bothered finding out exactly where it went since it didn’t open for summer operations until tomorrow.

The bike path ended at the eastern edge of Selva so we were back on SS 242 for the climb up Passo Gardena. There were so many trucks, or at least it seemed like a large number since they usually passed very close, in a couple of cases, far too close for comfort. Happily, when we got to the fork for Passo Gardena or Passo Sella, none of the trucks turned towards Passo Gardena.

Another climb with distractingly beautiful scenery, then a descent into Corvara and our accommodation. We are here for 4 nights so I’ll leave off here.

Al stayed here when he came with VVV to do the Maratona dles Dolomites.

I earned this today but only a small one. We have something to do tomorrow.

This includes the cableway ride. Al turned his Garmin off for that, so based on his records, we rode 63 km and climbed 1738 m.

Heart

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Margie AndersonTruly stunning, what a fantastic day! Thanks for stopping to take pictures. M
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2 years ago

Jacquie GaudetTo Margie AndersonTaking pictures allows me to catch my breath! This was a fantastic day but also the most challenging.
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2 years ago

Today's ride: 63 km (39 miles)
Total: 1,820 km (1,130 miles)

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Scott AndersonI’m very envious. We were on the Alpe di Siusi in the winter ten years ago on a cross country ski trip, catching the gondola up from Ortisei. Incredible, but I’ve always wanted to get back to see it in the summer too.
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2 years ago

Jacquie GaudetTo Scott AndersonHah! It’s usually me envious of you! But even Al called it magical. You should try to fit it in someday.
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2 years ago

Lyle McLeodWell done! Looks like an amazing ride …. Something to dream about for the future!
Safe travels for the rest of your trip.
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2 years ago

Rachael AndersonWhat an amazing ride!
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2 years ago