Jeff City to Hermann

June 24, 2020

I’ve hit a fine stretch of weather, with clear skies and temperatures in the low 80’s – a day so fine it couldn’t be spoiled by the dreadful contents of my breakfast sack. An array that included syrupy fruit cocktail and a packaged Honey Bun spoke volumes about what passes for breakfast at most chain hotels in the USA. I debated whether to go downtown for some decent food but settled for the frosted mini-wheats with milk and a cup of hotel room coffee – hoping for something more substantive down the road.

I made my way across the river and down the many but uncounted 90° turns of the ramp cube and was soon heading east toward Tebbetts. For most of the day, the trail ran inland from the river and closely paralleled Missouri Route 94. Cyclists were few and far between and my companions were a wondrous variety birds, squirrels and the occasional reptile.

Bridge over Missouri River at Jefferson City

Father and son descending the ramp cube down from the Missouri River bridge. These two were the only touring cyclists I passed on the trail yesterday.

The Katy Trail closely parallels Missouri Highway 94 between North Jefferson and McKittrick

Unfortunately, he scurried off into the brush before I caught his name

I passed only one day rider as I continued on to the Mokane trailhead, where there was a sign warning that the trail was closed between mile marker 118 and 117, Curiously, there was another sign stating there was no official detour, even though the closure was due to a rock slide that occurred during last year’s heavy flooding. I had read discussions on the bikekatytrail forum that spoke of using highway 94 with suggestions of how to return to the trail, but I wasn’t quite sure of when to exit the trail. I stopped the day cyclist coming from Portland to ask if he had any insight, but he had gone only as far as the rock slide. He did say there was a difficult, convoluted path folks had worn as a work-around solution. Traffic on highway 94 had been fairly light all morning, so I chose the ~2-mile paved detour, during which time I was passed by one large truck and a pick-up. Piece of cake.

A number of the creeks along the trail have French names, reflecting the French-Canadian fur trade along the Missouri that began in the late 18th century

Standing Rock is all that remains of sandstone bluffs that have since eroded - why it still stands is somewhat of a mystery

The trail rejoined the river just west of Portland, home of Holzhauser's Bar & Grill - the first open trail-side eatery I’d passed in two days. I decided it was time for another juicy cheeseburger. The place looked closed, but when I checked the hours posted at the side door I found it open. I pulled the buff up over my mouth and nose and went in. The only person inside was a woman working the bar and grill, and our initial encounter was a little stiff. It’s not unusual for me to be the only masked person inside an establishment, so the fact that she did not have a mask didn’t bother me too much. Rather, it was that the mask hid my friendly smile and it took her a bit of time to warm up to me. Sadly, the fact that masks hide smiles probably exacerbates the divide between mask wearers and mask disdainers

It was nice to see Vivien George get reacquainted with the Missouri

The cheeseburger was tasty, but left me sluggish during the final ~20 mile stretch. The day was warming and there was little shade as the trail moved inland again. I met a couple from Texas doing the whole trail out and back - it was the third time for him! I was hot and thirsty by the time I reached McKittrick and the turn-off to Hermann. It was there I met Jeff – a local cycling enthusiast and the owner of 11 bicycles. I was craving ice cream so after crossing the Missouri, I refreshed myself with a four-berry smoothie before heading to my digs for the night - a nice little inn among the many overnight establishments in this tourist stop along the river. I ordered take-out from the local pizzeria and while enjoying salad and pasta on my own private balcony I spotted a couple of touring cyclists who were also staying at the inn. Nice to know that there are others venturing out and enjoying a little road trip.

For long sections, the trail runs inland between the tree-covered bluffs and highway 94

Riders from Texas doing the whole 240 mile route in each direction

Tree-lined sections of the trail brought a welcome shade as the day warmed

But there were long stretches in the open sun

Looking out over the fertile flood plain

Pigeons had taken over the upper floors of the house across the street

Heart

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Today's ride: 49 miles (79 km)
Total: 863 miles (1,389 km)

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