Exploring Assam, life and finding "home"..

January 27, 2025 to March 19, 2025

After few weeks of break, I returned to Guwahati from South India, where I fell ill and recovered at my Warmshower host's sanctuary-like, quiet place. During my recovery, I daydreamed about future explorations and saw Orang National Park on Google Maps while seeking a new route to the Eastern Assam. Then I realized that the Bhutan border was nearby, prompting another change in plans. I learned that the border connects two national parks: Manas and Royal Manas Park. So I decided to visit Manas National Park for a day before hoping make my windy way to Eastern Assam.

The ride was a flat 140+ kilometers route, except for a roadside peanut "hill" and some beautiful mustard fields. Upon entering the Bodoland Territory, I remembered reading about its troubled past in school so continued with a bit of trepidation.

Saw this Gõr, Rhino while on a walk along NP's boundary..

I arrived in the Manas area on January 27th and was delighted to find a community festival underway. Over the next few days, I encountered rhinos, elephants and even a black panther during walks outside the park and shared jeep safaris inside the park. I connected with a NGO, The Midway Journey who were working on reducing plastic waste in the region and started volunteering with them.

Ethnic Sutradhar community home/room with a fishing net

As I spent time there—a week, then a month—the simplicity of life struck me deeply. The community had endured significant pain from ethnic conflicts and poverty. Many lived in traditional bamboo and mud-walled homes. They spun their own clothes and worked various jobs in tea estates, national park-related roles, or tourism. That's in addition to farming, and any other job that will help them bring food to the table. So, they do not have much disposable income or "belongings".

But, they still have "everything". I have never seen more welcoming, more helpful, more kind people in my life. And, this inspite of the violent past.

restaurant owner/safari guide took me to his friend's squash farm..

One repeated question I encountered was:

"Don't you miss home?"

My feeling and comment always was:

"I am home."

Real world vs worries of the first world..

While chatting with a friend in the US, he mentioned that the insulation film between the glass panes of his window had stained, prompting him to work with his insurance for a replacement. Another friend in Canada asked if people here didn’t have air conditioning when I described the heat.

Had I not witnessed the life here firsthand, I might have thought the same.

During my volunteering, I visited homes primarily constructed from bamboo and mud, often featuring just four walls. In some homes cooking was done over three bricks set in a small depression in the ground. One home had a bed made from a bamboo frame supported by four posts, with grass used as bedding!

another traditional home with a "grinding stone" by the door..

We were distributing dry waste bags to help residents separate dry waste from wet waste.

Nishar, Dipankar and Junika distributing the "dry waste" baksaa..

This pilot village was transitioning from initial campaigning to implementation.

Tea-pickers heading to the market with their reusable shopping bags

I was pleasantly surprised by how warmly the community welcomed us into their homes and courtyards as we distributed these sacks and posted instructional posters explaining proper waste segregation.

A pair of the Great Hornbills inside the Manas National Park..

For these residents, concerns about saving the environment, wildlife, rivers, or the planet are secondary to their basic needs: shelter, food, and family. So, the way The Midway Journey had conveyed the message was impressive, especially considering that many community members have basic education, if any.

a simple, yet effective instructional poster..

About a week later, we returned to collect the filled dry waste bags. This cathartic work allowed me a lot of self-reflection time as I closely witnessed the community members engaged in their daily lives such as farming, selling produce, or working on handlooms.

Orchids play a significant role in Assamese culture..

On days when I wasn’t volunteering, I sought out opportunities for physical work—whether it was farming or building bamboo fences—allowing me to connect with the earth, and the community.

I’m grateful that people regardless of their religion, tribe, or social class allowed me into their lives, even if only briefly.

While I'm uncertain about the impact I made on their lives, they have undoubtedly changed me forever. I have never shed more tears—tears of gratitude—for this transformative experience.

bidding adieu to family..the "cycle" continues..

Every day, I'm thankful for my decision to embark on this journey with Motaacycle or MisterGordo.

Today's ride: 150 km (93 miles)
Total: 2,154 km (1,338 miles)

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