Day 9 - A second crack at Mai Chau: success! - Trial by fire: new bike, first tour, first time in Asia

November 3, 2024

Day 9 - A second crack at Mai Chau: success!

Surprisingly, today started like yesterday with the sun rising in the east and slowly lighting Hoa Binh.

After that things seemed to click. We dived on a Banh My stall and then pedaled through the market to pick up fruit and fish cakes and to marvel at the stuff on offer.

Vendor of the day - he makes a fine Banh My

Fish cakes on the right and boiling oil on the left.

Some could be identified to breed. A classy urban center, indeed!

Winston negotiating a sale of persimmon and mango.

We were heading off, after stocking up, when we spotted a pot of gold.

This is really the start of today's ride - a lovely coffee on this unique coffee maker.

And it came with entertainment!

The day had started well. Long may it continue. We left town by yesterday's route but continued on the main road that climbed high above Hoa Binh. It wasn't easy!

But the came a descent and some flat stuff so we made good progress. Admittedly, the main road is nowhere near as pleasant as yesterday's ride.

Ian likes to ride the main road. Personally I prefer the water buffaloes.

But the scenery is still terrific, there's interesting stuff on the roadside and there's even a landslide causing chaos.

We continued making the correct turns and after about 40 km a long climb started. I remembered it from our previos trip and even the distance markers for Son La brought back fond memories.

I have loved seeing these signs that in most places have become relics. Yhey have very positive messages. The caption reads, "Determined to build Hoa Binh into a classy urban center before 2025." Time's running out.

I was tempted to climb it but couldn't be bothered changing shoes.

Traditional Hill Tribe costumes and iphones. I wonder if they have special phone pockets sewn into their skirts.

There were disappointments too. The garbage is nothing compared to what I saw in Indonesia but it's there.

Why cycle or even visit places with such disdain for the planet. Let's put pictures like this on our blogs and hope that it stimulates some action.

There were roadsigns worth observing.

Standing here taking a photograph was foolish.

I battled to reach the top without stopping but hunger got me, which baguettes stuffed with bananas solved. Winston plugged away to the top - an admirable feat.

The top - the end of the day's 1200m of climbing.

The descent was terrific but it gave me the equal biggest scare I have had on a bicycle. I was suddenly staring at a car overtaking in a blind spot. Rule number one: anything is preferable to a head on collision. Fortunately, I had my speed up and got to the road's edge, kept my head together and slipped between the car and the guard rail. Later I lay in bed with the picture imprinted on my brain. I wanted to sit at a table with a moderator and vent my spleen at this selfish turd.

I had stopped in bright light to take some photographs of the valley below that was such a spectacle 20 years ago. Fires burnt straw and everything was washed out. We had seen the young fluorescent rice in late December. I couldn't see my screen and this is what I photographed.

The view from our Guesthouse. We had descended the hill on the right.

Towards Mai Chau and the direction we will be heading.

We walked towards Mai Chau for a meal, snapping the odd photo.

Here's the translation of the sign:

Mai Chau was nothing like this 20 years ago. Back then it didn't even have karaoke!

Most towns have these banners hanging from light posts. This one was particularly interesting, and with a corporate sponsor.

Here's the translation:

Today's ride: 66 km (41 miles)
Total: 373 km (232 miles)

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Florence SofieldOMG Ian how many lives do you have????? Please take care over there!
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2 weeks ago

Graham SmithIan well done on narrowly avoiding oblivion. I trust the fluoro jacket deserves some credit.

One of my less fond memories of the northern Vietnam high country (near Sapa) was seeing a truck weaving erratically, but directly, toward the front of the hire car were in. Jane, our 3 young kids and me as passengers.
Missed by ‘that much’ when our driver skilfully detoured off road.

The truck driver was absolutely muted drunk. Our guide/translator wasn’t even slightly surprised. Cheap, abundant beer and rice wine have made drink-driving a national pastime. Similar or worse than in Australia when we were young drivers… before RBT.
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2 weeks ago

John GrantThat which doesn't kill us makes us stronger ? ? I'm glad you managed to stay upright.
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2 weeks ago