Waimea

January 9, 2018

It looks like another gorgeous day. The plan for today: an out and back to Waipio, and then up to Waimea on the old highway.

Wow. I’m of the opinion that being lucky with weather is a key ingredient in a successful Bike tour.

We got off to a leisurely start this morning, hanging around in the dining area chatting with the couple that apparently owns the hotel and a friend of the family. It was a relaxed, welcoming visit and left me with a good feeling about the place. We were encouraged when we left to let other bikers know how accommodating they are to bicyclists, and have the facilities to accommodate larger groups.

Honokaa’s historic district. It reminds me of a town in the Old West. Oh, wait - Hawaii is about as west as it gets.

Today’s ride begins with an out and back to Waipio Valley, one of the unmissable sights in this part of the valley. The valley is at the end of a nine mile dead end road, beautiful for cycling. It rolls along without gaining or losing much elevation, bounded by forest on the south side and meadows and ocean views on the north.

The road terminates abruptly when it reaches the east wall of Waipio Valley, a cavernous gap in the landscape that drops precipitously about 900’ at the end of the road. Well, actually it doesn’t quite end - it continues on as a roughly paved single track down the face of the cliff, dropping at an average grade of 25 percent until it reaches the valley floor.

On the ridge road to Waipio - beautiful, rolling, relaxed; until the end, when it suddenly isn’t.

The road is open to motor vehicles, but only if they have 4WD. It is also open to walkers, and a good number of them make the strenuous trek down and then back up again, stopping often to gape at the awesome views, to make way for motor vehicles creeping up and down the extreme slope, and to give a rest for the knees. Mine made it, just - I was starting to wonder as I neared the bottom, but then the sight of a fit young woman climbing back carrying her toddler in front of her shamed me into persevering.

The driveable road ends at the Waipio Valley viewpoint, with a stupendous view down into the valley and across at awesome cliffs plunging vertically into the sea.

It’s unusual for us to get a reasonable photo together, and unheard of to get one that includes my hat - normally she won’t get anywhere near it. An event to be remembered.

At the start of the famously steep descent to Waipio Valley. It’s hard to overstate how steep this descent is - it drops about 750’ in a bit over half a mile.

This is one of the wide spots in the road, with room for a pullout so that uphill vehicles can edge by. The road is staffed by an attendant at the top who registers drivers, validates they have 4WD, and instructs them on driving protocol.

Giving the knees a respite. I have knee issues, and toward the end of the descent I was starting to wonder.

It was well worth the trek down. Walking along the valley floor, feels like we’re walking through a cathedral, with the walls of the cathedral towering above us and surrounded by exotic vegetation. Off in the distance, too far off to be heard, a towering free-falling waterfall drops from the huge sheer cliffs at the head of the valley.

Or, if it might feel a bit more reverent if it weren’t reggae music blasting from someone’s yard - people actually live down here! What an incredible place to call home.

On the valley floor. It’s an awesome place - lush vegetation, huge cliffs, and a pretty big waterfall in the background. Well worth the walk down.

I fell in love with this tree and its colorful patchwork bark.

I don’t know what type of tree this is, but it reminds me of a eucalyptus.

And then there’s the waterfall. At 1,450’, it’s one of the tallest in Hawaii. This is as close as you can get though - it’s surrounded by private land.

There’s that great-looking hat again! The road continues on, but we forgot to bring our waders so we turned back here.

The climb back out is much easier than the way down, of course. Just a long, steep slog, like climbing a thousand step staircase. Actually, stairs would probably be easier. It helps that we’re climbing in the shade of the cliffs the whole way - it would be a different tale with the sun beating down on our backs.

At the top, we unlock our bikes and cha a bit with an unfortunate woman sitting nearly, wistfully taking in the views. Her friends are all hiking down below, but she can’t join them - she experienced the return of an old knee injury just before leaving for this vacation.

She points out something I’d missed earlier - the crown of Maui is visible in the distance, rising above a layer of clouds. She’s also highly interested in our funny looking bikes, and delighted when she realizes they’re the same bike her husband just bought and is waiting delivery on. We’re excited too, thinking we’ve found yet another passionate cyclist. Interest quickly wanes though when she says the purpose is so it will fit easily in the back of their caravan camper.

Back on top again, looking once more at the amazing view. Maui is visible on the horizon, above the clouds.

We break up the return ride to Honokaa with a lunch break - a cold pizza blowout sitting on a rise above the road overlooking the ocean. Back in town again, we steeply wind our way up to the start of the old highway, following the route recommended to us this morning at the hotel: right at GK (Granny’s Kitchen); left at the Catholic Church; cross the new highway at Tex’s drive-in.

The Old Mamalahoa Highway carries us most of the way to Waimea. You’ll be tired of hearing this by now, but this is another brilliant road, perfect for cycling. It’s all uphill and through the forest at first, rising about 1,200,in seven miles. Not bad - great scenery, little traffic, shaded all the way. At the top we break out of the woods into a landscape of broad, rolling grassland. Beautiful.

On the Old Mamalahoa Highway, another brilliant cycling road. It’s too bad that it stops five miles short of Waimea and throws you back onto the busy highway at the end.

On the Old Mamalahoa Highway. Rachael’s down there in the distance. I was waiting for her to get closer but then a car showed up and spoiled the shot.

On the Old Mamalahoa Highway. For a few miles around the summit, the landscape reminded me of Scotland.

On the Old Mamalahoa Highway. This unbroken wall of trees went on for about a mile.

For dinner, we walk to the nearby Red Water Cafe. I feel a bit guilty about this, because we’re passing up the Noodle Club, a spot further off recommended by a friend. It’s Ladie’s Choice tonight though (as it is most nights with this team), and tonight the lady prefers a fish dish.

We’re lucky to get in. It’s a popular place, we don’t have reservations, and there are exactly two stools still open at the bar. We enjoy an excellent meal, best of the tour. We also enjoy sitting at the bar chatting with our neighbors, something we don’t typically do. Once we sell our home and hit the road later this year, we should start trying this more often - we’ve started slowing down and opening ourselves up to casual encounters more often, and are greatly enjoying it.

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Total elevation gain: today, 3,000’; for the tour, 23,900’

Today's ride: 34 miles (55 km)
Total: 337 miles (542 km)

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Robert EwingYou chose wisely dining at the Red Water. Waimea means red water. After 2 1/2 years living in Waimea my last meal before flying back to PDX was taken there. The Red Water was started by the chef from the internationally known Merriman's across the street. Yes you were very lucky to get seated without reservations. It is a local favorite.

Aloha
Robert
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6 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Robert EwingThanks again for following along and for your local insights, Robert. We still might check out Tex’s joint or the noodle shop one of these years. It’s definitely a place worthy of a second pass.
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6 years ago