At Volcano

January 5, 2018

Gluttons for punishment. Yesterday went well, so we’re doing it again: the Chain of Craters Road drops 4,000’ to the sea in twenty miles. That sounds pleasant enough, but then we have to get back up again somehow. it will help a lot that we’re not carrying as much gear, but still. Three days in a row?

Why did we front-load the three hardest rides of the tour into the first three days? Who planned this trip? And who designed this island, anyway?

We opened up the restaurant this morning at 7. Surprisingly, there are only a few other diners joining us for the next half hour, so we have the show almost to ourselves, along with the staff who get to see this every day. It’s as amazing as it was last night, but completely different. First, Mauna Loa lights up with a rosy glow that passes after about five minutes. Then, the caldera gradually lightens and grows in detail as the sun clears the horizon. We couldn’t really look at it last night, because the sun was right behind it, until it wasn’t.

It is still cold out again this morning, and maybe unusually so. Our server this morning said they had a low of 33 the day before.

Mauna Loa, and the north rim of the Kilauea caldera

After breakfast, we looked at the map of the park and I see that there’s an additional paved road, to the Halina Pali overlook. This looks attractive enough that we’ve changed the ride plan for the day - we’ll take that road, and then come back to Chain of Craters Road and continue partway down to the sea only. Here’s the plan.

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Another beautiful ride. I expected the park to be spectacular of course, but it has far exceeded our expectations. It’s really a magical place. I’m glad we stayed here two nights, and I’m glad we stayed at the lodge itself.

We began our ride exploring the short side roads and paved trails edging the Kilauea Crater. The contrasts are amazing - one minute you’re biking through a dense forest with tree ferns lin8ng the road, and then suddenly you’re in the open, gliding through a lava desert.

The first few miles of today’s ride were like biking through a rain forest.

Biking on the short Devastation Trail near the park entrance.

I’ve lost track now, but I think this is Pauahi Crater, one of several small Craters that line Chain of Craters Road.

There is/was a road that completely circles Kilauea’ caldera, but much of it is closed for safer reasons - presumably the hazardous fumes that emanate continuously. The final mile that is still open on the southeast side is delightful - closed to cars, it is overgrown, quiet, secluded. We didn’t see anyone on it when we were there soon after breakfast. I’m sure it gets more crowded later in the day or maybe at other times of year, but this morning we had the amazing views of the Crater completely to ourselves.

This is the final open mile of the Crater Rim Road. This piece is open only to walkers and bikers. The road continues on across the caldera beyond this piece, but is barricaded off for safety reasons.

Looking across the rim of Kilauea to Mauna Kea

Leaving the caldera, we dropped a few miles down Chain of Craters Road until we came to the turnoff for primitive Hilina Pali Road, a paved one lane path that extends nine miles west to an ocean overlook. For me, this road was the highlight of the day. I think we saw only two cars on our way out, and a few more on the return when afternoon traffic picked up. I really hadn’t expected to find such inspiring solitude here in Hawaii.

It’s a very varied ride. After a few miles of riding through the woods, the road breaks out into the clear as it crosses a lava flow - presumably quite old, as vegetation has taken root here and there. In the middle of it is a small campground, completely empty. Beyond that it passes through open meadow as it starts dropping toward the sea. It ends at an overlook perched almost three thousand feet above the sea, with huge views up and down the coast. With more time and better planning, we could have taken one of the hikes that radiate from here along the top of the cliffs and down to the shore far below.

Hilina Pali Road - eighteen miles of cycling paradise

The overlook at the end of Hilina Pali Road

The ocean overlook at the end of Hilina Pali Road

The ride back from the viewpoint is as delightful as it was going out, except that its generally uphill and it’s much busier now - we only saw two cars before, but now there are six or seven. Still, not bad for a nine mile stretch of the road. We stop at the campground again on our way back to eat our lunch, and that too has gotten congested -a young couple has arrived and is setting up camp, so we don’t quite have the world to ourselves this time.

Back at the junction, we turn south and go a few miles down Chain of Craters Road. Not as far as I’d planned this morning, because we’re running out of day because we’ve been poking along enjoying ourselves. Rachael is more eager than I am, and I watch us rapidly lose elevation and think about yesterday's climbing experience. I don’t really trust my conditioning yet and am a bit anxious about the trek back to the lodge once we turn around.

We make it as far as the recent lava flow from Mauna Ulu. We stop at a pullout and walk across the fascinating and colorful flow, covered with grotesque formations. After that we continue dropping until the road traverses the flow, and call it quits. I stop to take a photo and Rachael coasts down another hundred yards or so. When I look up, I’m alarmed to see that she’s pushing her bike - I fear another mechanical. It’s not that though - she’s pushing because once she turned around she couldn’t get started again - the road is steep here, and there’s a stiff wind blowing across the barren expanse of the flow.

To my relief, the climb out proves to be fine - much easier than at the end of yesterday’s ride. It was an easier day overall, and maybe I’m a bit more acclimatized to the altitude?

On the Chain of Craters Road, crossing Mauna Ulu’s lava flow

Last night’s dinner at the lodge was a wonderful experience. Tonight’s was as well - this is the best situated lodge we’ve ever stayed at, and it was well worthwhile staying more than one night and seeing the caldera in different conditions. Probably the best resort lodge experience we’ve ever enjoyed.

Last night’s sunset was spectacular enough, but we couldn’t see the glow from the Crater then. Totally different experience this evening.

Total elevation gain for today, 3,600’; for the tour, 10,600’

Today's ride: 42 miles (68 km)
Total: 149 miles (240 km)

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Suzanne GibsonGreat Photos, Scott! I didn't click them all individually, but I like them all!
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6 years ago

Scott AndersonThanks, Suzanne. This is a pretty remarkable place, alright. We’re both quite amazed by it.
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6 years ago