Day 5: Worland to Greybull

July 13, 2024

Today is forecast to have a high temperature of 99F, so I got up at 6 and on the road at 7:16 when the temperature was 70F. Today's route is short, flat, and all paved. That enabled me to arrive in Greybull at noon when the temperature was only 85F. Many touring cyclists routinely do this to beat the heat, but it was my first time to actually succeed. I almost never need to ask for early check-in.

Today I pedaled west a mile from Worland to get onto WY 433 which is west of the Bighorn river while US 20 is east of the river. WY 433 has no shoulder, but also very little traffic. It mostly goes on a bench that is 100-200 feet above the river. No river views after the initial crossing.

Farmer's market setting up as I was leaving Worland.

Today I saw several ruins of former homestead farm houses.

The route is high above the river but not too high for irrigated fields. The river must be diverted into canals very far upstream.

Center pivot irrigation. Most corn was much taller than this.

I passed only a handful of feedlots, and none were industrial scale. I presume that most of the corn I see growing will become cattle feed.

The cows seemed very interested in me. Fortunately the feedlot was downwind.

Rare amber waves of grain. I saw far more corn.

The sky was blue to the west early in the morning. But the sky was smoky to the northeast. Most of today's ride was under silvery smoky sky. Long distance visibility was poor but smoke wasn't noticeable at ground level.

Basin is the first town I pass through on today's route. I knew nothing about it in advance because it's not an overnight stop. Basin is bigger than I expected, and I was very surprised to see that it's a county seat. It's a charming quiet farm town.

Sad but functional modernization on this historic building.

I was surprised that a town of 1311 people is the county seat when nearby Greybull is bigger.

I didn't take very many pictures on the road today. Most of the route was the same old irrigated field scenes, with only two river views. I avoided US 20 between Worland and Basin by following WY 433 and Orchard Bench road. Both roads have low traffic and good scenery.

Bighorn river just south of Greybull. Only two river views today.

I was hoping for good views of the Bighorn mountains as I approached Greybull. Unfortunately a big wildfire is burning somewhere in the Bighorn mountains, so the entire area is in a smoke cloud.

Today I pedaled towards smoke from a fire in the Bighorn mountains (hazy right).

I arrived in Greybull at noon and looked around for a few minutes before going in the hotel to ask about early check-in. Greybull is a small town of 1691 people with a lot of western charm. It developed in the early 20th century as an oil town.

Greybull is on a well traveled tourist route that goes west to Cody and Yellowstone National Park, and east to the Bighorn mountains and I-90. A steady parade of traffic passes through but not very many people stop to look around. Greybull has a couple of shops that cater to visitors, but it's not crowded with tourists.

Greybull is a gateway town to the Bighorn mountains. It attracts a few adventure-minded folks who hike, fish, and hunt in the mountains.

I went north of downtown to see Brandi's Candies. The selection is amazing. I bought a few dark chocolate items.

The museum was open, but I didn't go inside. I should have at least gone inside the red caboose that is part of the museum. Not sure why a Chicago, Burlington and Quincy railroad caboose is in Wyoming.

Tonight's home is the historic Greybull Hotel which was built in 1919 during an oil boom. It's quite large. All guest rooms are upstairs. Upstairs as in carry the bike up 25 stairs. No elevator. The usual deal in a historic building. Fortunately the building has good central air conditioning. My room has a west facing window but it stayed cool during the 98F afternoon. I was able to check in at 12:30. The hotel seems to be mostly empty. Doors were open on the vacant rooms, so I got to see several rooms. Every room is unique.

Tonight's home is Greybull Hotel. Built in 1919 during an oil boom.

I'm staying in Miss Kitty's Suite which has a private bath and full kitchen. Only $111, one of the cheapest overnights of the trip. Regular rooms are cheaper but looked like the bike might be a tight fit.

Miss Kitty's Suite is one of the cheapest overnights of this tour.

I had a 1.5 hour nap before dinner. Overall I feel much better than I did yesterday, thanks to an easier route and better heat avoidance.

I had dinner at the Speakeasy restaurant in the basement of the hotel. I can't eat beef every night, so I had salmon. It's a fine dining restaurant that is only open 3 nights a week. My timing is good.

The sky suddenly got cloudy at 7 PM and there were a few spits of rain. That cooled the evening a bit. I walked around in the evening looking for lighted signs. The hotel sign looks good but is so bright and consistent that it must be LEDs, not neon tubes.

Greybull Hotel has a nice lighted sign but it must be LEDs.

Silver Spur Bar has a genuine neon sign.

I like the neon sign at the Silver Spur Bar. I didn't go inside, though. Instead I had two beers with dinner at the Speakeasy restaurant. Every night during this tour I drank Pako's IPA either on tap or from a can. It's made by Snake River Brewing in Jackson, Wyoming. Pako is the master brewer's dog who sometimes breaks into the brewery to be with his owner.

Top slogan: Put Our River Through Your Liver

I have been traveling downstream for the entire tour but today was the first easy day. Less than 40 miles, minimal climbing, all paved.

Staying at the historic hotel makes the visit to Greybull even more interesting. I don't mind the 25 steps. Greybull is a great little western town.

Distance: 39.4 miles
Average Speed: 9.9 mph
Ascent/Descent: +498/-699 feet

Today's ride: 39 miles (63 km)
Total: 227 miles (365 km)

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