December 11, 2020
Kopu to Te Aroha
Get thee to a nunnery.
Measli and tea for breakfast. Ann points out the stuffed pheasant hovering above us, posed in the act of flying off the wall- hence the name Pheasant Cottage. I refrain from referencing Bates Motel.
We collect our washing, farewell our host and find the trail where we left it last evening. The route is unsealed but very well compacted and we make good time in the cooler slightly cloudy conditions. Until we reach an inviting, just off the trail cafe, that is. Here, we indulge in a latte and their oat and apricot slice, as well as buying some cheese, since the cafe is also the Matatoki cheese factory.
We find out later in the day that this route to Te Aroha was a favourite of Aucklanders, in early days when they travelled by boat from the Queen City to Thames, and then by train down to Te Aroha to enjoy the walks and hot mineral springs. It is this rail line on which we now cycle. The path is mostly straight, is bordered by lush dairy land, and Mt Aroha towers heavenwards somewhere in the distance. This land must have been drained over the years- there are lots of bridges over streams ditches and waterways. We also regularly encounter cattle stops and occasionally cross some of the minor roads that crisscross the Waikato.
Hikutaia has seen better days. In the main street the Pioneer Tavern is up for sale. It’s in a rather sorry state of decline. We do find a Father Christmas though, his arms open in welcome.
In Paeroa we skip the famed L&P statue and walk down the main street which boasts four or more antique stores, full of bric a brac- old prams, china, furniture. Perhaps it was left over from when everyone abandoned towns like Hikutaia. We buy bread rolls and lunch beside the river Ohinemuri. The Ohinemuri has its origin in Waihi and meets the Waihou near Paeroa, flowing out to sea at Thames. There is a recently built landing stage beside the river and it looks like a pleasant spot for a swim. In Paeroa the cycle trail diverges - one branch to Waihi and the other, which we take, on to Te Aroha. We meet one tourer with an electric bike. He’s headed for Miranda- he’ll need to go fast! Turns out, he’s from Mt Albert and lives close to us. He’s pleased to hear our suggestion of taking the ferry from Pine Harbour.
Te Aroha is visually impressive- both the mountain which dominates the small town and the buildings themselves, many of classical style, are constructed of both stone and wood. In the later part of the 19th century, a number of buildings were moved from a small town down the road. Mount Te Aroha is the highest point of the Kaimai range. We climbed it a few years back and enjoyed a magnificent view from the top. One version of the historical origin of the name, tells of Rahiri, ancestor of Ngati Rahiri, climbing to the top and feeling a great sense of aroha, love, for his homeland.
Our accommodation, The Nunnery, is easily found and the occupants we meet are all convivial. The building’s rooms are original , ( built 1970s) - have a built in desk, wash basin and shared ablutions! The owner, who bought the building when the Mercy sisters were downsizing, said she found a picture of a nun in one of the drawers, and thought it might be bad luck to discard, so a framed Catherine McAulay graces the hallway. We meet a Dutchman who has lived in NZ for many years. He is very affable and tells us how much he admires and appreciates the whole concept of cycling, particularly in The Netherlands. I inquire as to whether he cycles- ‘No he says- that’s my Jag in the car park.’
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We enjoy a relaxing soda spa- the water has a texture almost like oil- walk around the historical domain, and buy a takeaway curry, dining on the deck of the Nunnery. St Joseph’s church stands out magnificently, and the sun is about to set. Time for vespers and bed.
Today's ride: 51 km (32 miles)
Total: 186 km (116 miles)
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