To Issenheim

June 6, 2024

I created today’s route based on a suggestions from tonight’s host. He recommended a visit to the Ecomusée d’Alsace, an outdoor museum about historical Alsace. Since check-in wasn’t until 5, I had plenty of time for an outdoor museum visit. I was glad I went.

Routing to the Ecomusée meant I was off the EuroVelo except for a few minutes on EV 5. The abundance of local and regional routes got me to the museum and on to Issenheim just fine. In fact, I felt like I was taking a special backroads entry to the museum. It was fun.

It was also hot and muggy again today.

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My next-door neighbors last night, Debbie and Alan and family of Liverpool area. They were expecting to make it to Rimini in their van today.

I ran into my overnight neighbors just before they left for the next leg of their travels. Debbie and Alan and their dogs, who live near Liverpool when they’re not vanning about the continent, were chatty and funny. After wishing them bon voyage I rode to the closest boulangerie for provisions. It was more of a patisserie, and while everything looked amazing, it was already hot and nothing that great would keep. I got a couple of croissant.

I crossed the Rhône canal into suburban Mulhouse, Alsace’s second-biggest city, riding in a decent bike lane on arterial roads. Continuing on my mission to find provisions, I stopped at a Norma store, which is just like an Aldi, which is a mini Costco, a have to buy a dozen in one package kind of place. I did manage to score a single apple and a single pain au chocolat for elevenses, but not the lunch items I was hoping for. This store also had extra security precautions. I had to wait until a clerk could look me over via camera before they opened the inner door. I was confused about this at first because I didn’t understand the signs. I was madly using the translate app when the door opened for me.

I tried an Aldi a few blocks later but that didn’t work out either.

After this I had enough of the arterials and rerouted over to a regional route along a canal that took me to EV 5. Of course I missed the turn for the canal on my first try, so I decided to just stop at a park because it was close enough to elevenses. The Norma pain au chocolat was loads better than one I got from the highly recommended boulangerie back in Saint-Louis. That was nice. I also enjoyed some interesting outdoor sculptures all around me. A nearby school let out and students were streaming by me, so I got to observe adolescent group behaviors, which didn’t seem a whole lot different than my day.

Elevenses at a park at a busy intersection with a high school just letting out, so it was a lively time. It was shady, though, and it had some cool sculptures around.

An example of some interesting art in this park.

Out of the town and into the countryside. Look at those mountains out there - the Vosges. That’s a hopeful sign for things to come.

More interesting art in a park, but this was a little neighborhood park in Baldersheim. But wait - across the street …

… was this mosquito. Aside from the subject matter, it was really well done.

I smelled these guys long before I saw them.

A potash works. Quite a large operation at one time. There was a memorial here listing the many dozens of workers who died on the job, 1904-2004. Sheesh. Dangerous work.

There’s even a potash trail that I didn’t know I was on. I’m standing in Wittenheim.

The Potash Trail continues with a good bike path.

This is in Pulversheim, so I’m still on the potash trail. A pleasant village.

You feel like you’re in the middle of nowhere and then a sign shows up. Ecomusée d’Alsace this way!

First order of business upon arriving at the museum was to get something to eat and drink at their restaurant. It was half full of a bus load of seniors. Luckily they’d already ordered.

I ordered the regional specialty, Flammenkuchen. It’s a flatbread with cream and toppings, usually ham and other cheeses. I kept hoping otherwise but the two or three I had on this trip were pretty salty to my taste.

Storks! And loads of half-timbered houses in the museum.

For Ken Graham: a Farmer 204P and its predecessors

Another for Ken. Does that say Porsche on the upper left?

So here’s what a half-timbered house looks like without all the wall frou-frou.

I spent over an hour there, enjoying the architecture and the history. They took buildings in many of the towns in the Alsace and rebuilt them at the museum. Some from as long ago as the 1500s, all the way up to early 20th century I think.

Feldkirch, which means field church in German. I listened to its bells across the fields as I approached.

I didn’t have far to go to Issenheim by the time I reached Feldkirch but I did have a lot of time before check-in. I was going to sit on the church steps as I was taught but they were in the sun. Here’s the mairie too. And a bike. And a bench under the tree in the shade. Relax and get out the sketchbook.

Turned out this was the only time I sat and drew while on the road. So much for plans, eh? If you recall, I’ve been wearing a thimble over my dodgy digit; it’s hard to grip a pen with a thimble let me tell you.

The mairie and the church. Interesting that the Star of David is hanging on the front of the church.

Asparagus field where they were rolling up the plastic sheeting.

I pulled over onto the grassy side of the road to take a photo. As I was dismounting, Big Red started acting funny. Why is she still moving? Why is she pushing me ov- ? And down we went. I was relieved that no one witnessed this. The hardest part was brushing all the dried grass off me. Lesson: stop on level ground from now on, then move onto the grass.

Dramatic recreation of the scene just a few minutes earlier. Imagine me lying sideways too.

While making reservations (felt like dozens at the same time), this looked like a nice place for an overnight. I wasn’t clear that “chambre privat” with private bathroom meant a room in the house, not a studio or otherwise separated lodging. It turned out fine, because my host, Gwenaël, was charming, eager to please, a wealth of information, and knew when to leave you alone. What I found initially discouraging was the number of stairs up to the main floor, and then another flight up to the bedroom, which was not what I wanted to see after a hot day with tired legs. I survived.

My home for the night. Red stayed in the shed seen behind her. My room was on the second (US: third) floor.

On the way back from dinner at a nearby restaurant, the heavens opened. I was soaked through when I got back to the house. Thus ended the day.

View from my room after the rains cleared. Good night.

Today's ride: 36 km (22 miles)
Total: 368 km (229 miles)

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