Day 23: Alor Setar - Butterworth - Frankie goes to.....the South of Thailand (2018)

December 3, 2018

Day 23: Alor Setar - Butterworth

and on to Penang

A worthy end to this slow-cycling trip that had started in Hua Hin about seven weeks ago. Apart from some dense morning traffic along the mostly shoulderless #K1 and some heavy downpours all through the day some most enjoyable 5 hours in the saddle. And I am happy to share a little story how somebody who would call himself an experienced traveller can make a complete fool out of himself.

When I got down to the passenger ferry pier down at Dawai I was the only passenger at the time and the ferryman offered me in rather poor English to wait until all seats would be taken or to hire the boat by myself. I had exactly that same scenario in April when I paid 25 MYR(6 €) for an individual charter. I was soaking wet from a previous downpour and was certainly not prepared to sit on the pier for an hour or more to possibly save 4 €. So "Only me" I said and asked for the price. "Fifty Ringgit"- I understood. No way! I wouldn´t say I got loud but I made it very clear I wouldn´t pay one sen more than 25 Ringgit. He responded with a big surprise on his face: "25 Ringgit? Ok, ok." I took my seat proud of myself and sat down with the bike in the front of the boat. The ferryman even came towards me and offered to take a photo, "You are feeling miserable, aren´t you? And fair enough so!" - I thought. When we approached the other side after the very short ride my ferryman started screaming at the other captains waiting at that pier and they all burst out in laughter. "In the end they are all nice people" I thought and appreciated his help with the unloading. While I was rearranging my gear an elderly gentleman with excellent English came towards me saying with a big smile: "You really made their day! You are the first one who negotiated one of them up to 25 from the fifteen he asked for." I was about to disappear in the sandy soil but then cracked up myself. Fifty and fifteen are close together in pronunciation, aren´t they? I can´t think of any better excuse....

I really like the ride towards Butterworth after leaving the ferry terminal in Pantai Merdeka on the other side of the Kedah River. Very rural until you hit the outskirts of Butterworth. Normally I am headed for the shuttle ferry over to Penang but my good friend Faizal has moved his dreamwerkz-bikeshop over to the mainland and we had agreed I would leave my bicycle at his shop until I do return to Penang in April after 3 months in New Zealand and one month in Australia. I spent a couple of hours with his brother and some friends at his small but very professional shop before he took me over to my favourite Hotel Mingood in Georgetown. I will be here for 3 nights before I am off for fishing but cycling in New Zealand.

So,that´s it again then. I may consider having a few words on general issues regarding cycling in Thailand and Malaysia on a separate page but have to see whether I can come up with something useful first. Thank you very much for following me over the last few weeks and taking your time to rate some of my photos or narrative. I think I am beyond chasing those figures nowadays but all the same is it nice to see if you do like some of the stuff I do post.

What´s next? I am not entirely sure but the plan is to cycle in Myanmar in May. The problem is that I can only get a visa for 28 days which will not allow me to ride from the very south (Kawthaung) up to Mandalay. Not sure whether I will wait with Myanmar until at least 2 months are granted or whether to enter the country at Mae Sot/TH and then go up from there. You will be the first ones to know.... I feel tempted to wish you all a Happy New year but that´s probably a bit early.

If you stop in a Malaysian coffee shop and you see these little banana leaf pyramids, go for it. You will find the most typical Malay breakfast in it: Nasi Lemak (the k is not pronounced). The original version is rice, dried tiny fish, egg, peanuts and a rather mild chili paste. This version here contains chicken (ayam) and will have the letter A printed somewhere outside

I watched this lady planting the young rice and.....

.....can hardly imagine how much time and how much manpower it takes to cultivate a paddy field of such dimension

I had only stopped at this shop/factory as I wanted a 100plus electrolyte drink. Only then I noticed they are producing something like potato chips but they insisted it´s not potatoes. Some similar vegetable and after deep-frying....

...they are marinated in some sweet chili paste. You wouldn´t believe it how good they are

I consider myself lucky the sun came out for while on that particular section towards Butterworth

May I introduce: my friend Faizal, owner of dreamwerkz. To me not only the most reliable but certainly one of the best bike mechanics. When the South African Pro Team Dimension Data races in SEA he is part of the mechanics team. But don´t you believe his prices would reflect that.

Obviously we had to celebrate our reunion at this humble Malay buffet restaurant with approximately 50 choices of different dishes

View over to Georgetown´s Komtar Tower from my 4th floor balcony at the Mingood Hotel

Alor Setar - Dawai, then river crossing by ferry

Today's ride: 95 km (59 miles)
Total: 1,766 km (1,097 miles)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	4
Comment on this entry	Comment	7

Andrea BrownFrankie, you can overstay your visa in Myanmar with little drama. Pay the overstay fee ($3-5? Per day) when you leave. We met people who overstayed by 17 days! We always seem to overstay by at least a couple of days. They may take you to a separate room and put a “naughty stamp” in your passport but that certainly did not prevent us from being able to return to Myanmar. I say, go for it. Plus: they need the Western tourists this year, I’m pretty sure they will not hassle you about it.
Reply to this comment
5 years ago

Bruce LellmanThank you Frankie for again entertaining and informing all of us. I really appreciate that you mention hotel names and more or less rate them and also tell us how much they cost. It is very useful information which, if we are ever ride in that area, we will certainly refer to.

Your photos are great too - again informative but also artistic.

As for the naughty stamp in your passport for overstaying in Myanmar.....I don't think they do that anymore. We got one ten years ago and I am honored that it is archived forever in my old passport. I always save my old, tattered, dirty, US dollar bills that I've received in change during my stay in Myanmar just for that overstay fee. I tell the officials that is all the US dollars I have left from my stay - take it or leave it.
Reply to this comment
5 years ago

Frank RoettgenTo Bruce LellmanThank you again for your kind words, Bruce. Re: the overstay fee: Pay crap with crao they say in New Zealand....
Reply to this comment
5 years ago

Frank RoettgenTo Andrea BrownThank you for this, Andrea. Fortunately things do happen very quickly here in SEA. Why not the Myanmar visa regulations within the next 4 months?
Reply to this comment
5 years ago

Andrea BrownTo Frank RoettgenThings could very well change. They have been eliminating some visa requirements for nearby countries, since many of those travelers are apparently untroubled by the Rohingya crisis. Perhaps that will extend to "Western" countries as well, you never know. There are a lot of empty hotel rooms in Myanmar this year.
Reply to this comment
5 years ago

Henna JanieschFrankie, thanks for letting me participate in your experiences. I wish you a merry Christmas and a happy new year. Take care.
Let me know when you start again. I was longing every day for your adventures. Thank you and god bless you.
Reply to this comment
5 years ago

Frank RoettgenTo Henna JanieschThank you very much for this wonderful message, Helmut. I wish to return those good wishes for Christmas and New Year to you and your family. You will be the first one to know when I am back on the road! Your friend Frankie
Reply to this comment
5 years ago