Day 13: Phuket - Phang Nga - Frankie goes to.....the South of Thailand (2018)

November 14, 2018

Day 13: Phuket - Phang Nga

Anything exciting to report on my visit to Phuket? - Yes, the tailwind firing me back up to the mainland this morning! But seriously: As I said before, I quite enjoyed my two nights at the P.S. 2 Resort but that was very much related to the accommodation itself and the nice company I had in Lars. From the cycling point of view I consider my short excursion to Thailand´s most popular island a waste of time and energy. Either boring pedalling along the north-south arteria #402 or road-rage amongst extremely busy and aggressive traffic with insanely steep climbs when coming in and going out of Patong Beach. My recommendation: Skip Phuket when travelling in Thailand by bicycle. If travelling by other means of transport: Still skip it. The country has so much more to offer than this overpriced mass-processing. Enough on Phuket from my side. Other travellers might well rave on about the excellent nightlife or availability of international cuisine. Like Schnitzel....

I already mentioned the extremely difficult departure leaving Patong Beach towards Phuket Town. Getting off the bike on a steep hill and re-starting when the pulses are a bit down is a common thing in difficult terrain. Pushing the bike up a hill is something completely new to me but was unavoidable on that second ramp this morning. Fortunately the conditions were much more in my favour later on once I was northbound again on the #402. Leaving the island again through the "Gateway to Phuket" did now actually feel like an international border crossing. It was like coming back into Thailand-proper.

The rest of the day was fabulous, despite the wet conditions in the afternoon. Just a few kilometers north of Sarasin Bridge I had located a small road with no name on google maps, taking me east towards the Phang Nga National Park. From there I zigzagged through the countryside with just 20 or so kilometers left on Highway 4 at the very end. Five kilometers before Phang Nga City is the turnoff for the ferry piers to Koh Panyee, a Muslim fishing village along the amazing karst rock formations of the National Park.

And here comes my second recommendation for the day: When you wish to do a half day trip to the island/village too ride the 3 kilometers down to the water on the #4144. When you get there, there will be a 90 degree bend with a Visitor Center on the right and a first pier just opposite. That´s for the tourist cruises with touts trying to sell you the tickets. Continue just a couple of hundred meters further where you will see the impressive Andaman Center on your right. Opposite this center is the pier for the ferries taking the locals over to their village. It´s here where you will board and pay 50 Baht (one way) to the ferryman on arrival.

When I came here last 8 years ago that was the only connection over to the island. Nowadays all the daytrippers have had impact on that formerly sleepy stilt village too. The whole waterfront is now restaurants catering for the masses of people being shipped there. Not mine and assisted by the very, very black clouds in the sky I decided to take the next boat back. Still entirely enjoyed the two boat rides along the mangroves on one side and the karst rocks on the other.

As soon as my ferry had moored back at the mainland pier the clouds opened. Big time. I had to sit under shelter for more than an hour before the rain turned into light drizzle only and there was a chance to ride the last 8 kilometers into town. I had briefly considered staying in the large hotel down near the pier but there is really nothing around it in the evening. So instead I booked myself into the TP Place Hotel through agoda. 600 Baht very well invested. Nice room with a little balcony and some excellent food options nearby. Phang Nga Town itself is a funny place. I would have considered a second night as the bike is desperate for some maintenance and my clothes need some washing too but I haven´t really located anything I would call a town center so I decided to have another day with a creaky chain and make it into the Krabi Province tomorrow.

Along the #402. I wonder whether he has got problems with his left shoulder too.

The most northern of Phuket´s beaches, Sai Kaew

The very northern tip of Phuket with the Sarasin Bridge in the background

The Gateway to Phuket checkpoint in the background

Along the #1004. Unloading the dried rubber lumps. They do stink!

The 50 Baht for a whole pomelo includes the grumpy peeling process

According to Chris de Burgh you shouldn´t pay the ferryman before he gets you to the other side. And in Koh Panyee they won´t even ask for anything else

Approaching the stunning rock formations of Ao Phang Nga National Park

Rice for sale. A clear indication this is a real nightmarket

I had these excellent curry-squid satees as my starter on the nightmarket.....

...followed by this outstanding Kwoi Tiau Nuea (rice noodles in beef broth) at the permanent restaurant just 200 m from the hotel. Spectacular food doesn´t necessarily have to look like it

Today's ride: 107 km (66 miles)
Total: 986 km (612 miles)

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Chris WeeOn my last two trips to Phuket, I landed at the airport and headed north. But the beaches are great for first timers from Sweden on a first Asia trip, I guess.
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6 years ago

Frank RoettgenTo Chris WeeYou are very right, Chris, and I am afraid I may come across like I am the only one who knows how to travel in Thailand. This is of course not the case and I fully understand people who have only got two or three weeks of annual leave and love the combination of decent beaches, entertainment and food that does not necessarily disassemble tongue and stomach. I am only trying to say if you make the effort to bring and ride your bike down (or up in your case) here, take advantage of it. Thailand is much, much better than Phuket. Which Coleen and you know anyway....
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6 years ago