Day 1: Chumphon - Ban Tong Tom - Frankie goes to.....explore Southern Thailand (Part 1: Chumphon to Trang)

December 10, 2019

Day 1: Chumphon - Ban Tong Tom

I don´t know how many times I have travelled this coast between Hua Hin and Surat Thani now. What I do know is that I never get tired of rolling along here. Things have changed over the years though and what used to be coconut-country only has a lot of palm oil plantations and shrimp farms nowadays. But when you go for the sideroads east of the Phetchkasem (Hway #41) it is still some of the best cycling you can find in Thailand. Not as fantastic as up near Ban Krut but I still admire it immensely.

I started the day off as always when leaving Chumphon: Down the #327 where you do a double left turn after the 7eleven to get onto the #2018. This is a real joyride until you get back onto the #41 for a few kilometers. I have considered many times to turn left just before the line of rails and thus avoiding the dual carriageway section entirely. But..... One of my favourite restaurants is located half way down those four highway-kilometers. I always skip the humble cookie breakfast at the Suriwong Hotel to be ready for the buffet at the Ban Roi Kao Thai Curries. Very easy to find it if you ever travel down this coast: When you come up to a moderate crest you will first view the giant golden Buddha statue on the right. Soon after that the stand-alone restaurant is on your left.

Always difficult to get going again after such a big feast but with only 30 kilometers left and very good friends waiting for me the wheels turned almost by themselves. The #2010 which starts right opposite that aforementioned statue is not as nice as the #2018 due to plantations and several shrimp farms but still makes for a pleasant afternoon in the saddle with hadly any traffic spoiling the entertainment. Assisted by the eager anticipation of reuniting with my long year friends Peed and Go Ma at their Nakoarimlay Homestay even the stiff headwind wasn´t too much of a concern. Two nights here are mandatory....

Leaving Chumphon along the Tha Taphap River

The Chumphon City Pillar. They symbolize the town privileges and are treated like shrines all over the country

One of the gorgeous wooden houses along the #2018

...the related skilled workers like this very friendly and very strong husker.

Or the far less friendly pickers. You really have to be careful when trying to take a photo. They can be vicious and I always make sure I do ask the owner not only for permission but support to.

The "Ban Roi Kao Thai Curries" restaurant along the #41. To be found on google maps with that name

And that´s why they call themselves a Thai Curry House: The Panaeng pork curry and the very, very, very spicy fish curry on the right are fabulous. Actually the raw vegetables and cucumbers with the chilli dip that come for free with your order would be a meal by itself

Sheltered mooring for the fishing boats along the #2010

Not every body´s cup of tea. The very basic rooms, typical for the older Thai homestays. I sleep like a log here....

The "catwalk" out to their huge terrace.....

....where that afternoon coffee tastes so much better!

Down at Sairin Beach where we went for dinner. Fingers crossed that stiff wind remains northeasterly over the next few days. Would make my life so much easier....

The Nakaorimlay Homestay under illumination

Chumphon - Ban Tong Tom along the #2018, 41, 2010 and 4011

Today's ride: 57 km (35 miles)
Total: 62 km (39 miles)

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