Apr 28, 2023: Madrid to Salamanca by train

April 28, 2023

Staying in and exploring the historical centre

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Microtel Placentinos 75€ with breakfast

I had tested my tablet's alarm last night to make sure it worked, and it did. I had set this morning's alarm for 6 am to give lots of time until the RENFE Media Distancia train departure at 740 am. As it turned out, the alarm woke me up immediately - and this after still having mixed-up sleep patterns whilst I change over from my Canadian internal clock to a Spanish internal clock which is six hours later.

I won't say that I hopped out of bed, but I did get out of bed to pack my gear into the Arkel XM-45 panniers which is the first time I have used them in many years. All went well and I have plenty of room.

The hostal was on the second floor (ie two floors up, not one) so I took my time going down the stairs, first carrying the panniers and then the bike. In the foyer I loaded the panniers onto the bike, flipped on my flashing red tail-light and stepped out into an almost dark morning (the sun doesn't rise until 718 am). Fortunately the streets were well-lit, there was very little traffic, and when needed I slipped up to a sidewalk or a bike path to stay safe.

I was still having trouble with the power button on my cycling GPS so I set my tablet to route me to the Principe Pio station and studied it a few times to get the general idea of where I had to go. The initial portion was the same route I had used in 2015 to exit the city, but then I had to cross a park to the station so I actually rode along with my tablet in-hand guiding me for the final 500 m. I'm sure there are a hundred reasons, some legal, why I should NOT have done it that way, but I'm new at not having a gps guidance system!

As Madrid woke up, people were pouring into the station to catch the Metro to wherever they were going. I asked staff who directed me through some doors and through a few sets of escalators to the commuter train station. It was fairly straightforward to roll through the turnstile, then straight into the train to coach 2, seat 112, after hanging the bike in the allocated bike section. When the train departed the station on the mark of 740 am I could see that at least my coach was completely full.

The first part of the ride was through very arid land, some mountains and through many hills and valleys. Here the line was double-tracked and kept to a speed of 85, 90 or 100 km/h, but after Ávila there was a single track and as the train continued the speed got as high as 158 km/h. The terrain here was greener, too, though I'm not sure that had anything to do with the speed of the train.

A few minutes before the arrival time of 1040 am, I made my way back to the bike to remove my lock, and replace a few things I had removed. As this was the biggest stop (though not the last) pretty well everyone got off so I figured I had enough time to pull the bike down and roll out of the train and indeed, I did.

The train did soon pull away so as people dwindled on the platform I hung my panniers on the rack, put on my cycling gear, and made an attempt at powering on my gps. It worked! This being the case, I was able to set the hotel as my destination and headed toward the old city centre.

Though I had cycled that bit in Madrid this morning, I still wanted to take it easy to make sure the bike had made the flights and re-assembly without any mechanical issues. So far, so good, as I continued along.

The buildings were suddenly very ancient-looking and then it appeared that I had arrived to just outside of the Plaza Mayor - apparently one of the most beautiful in Spain. I hopped off of the bike and walked in and just kept thinking 'wow' to myself. Absolutely beautiful and in great condition. It was still early, so though I did not have the place to myself, there were few people around.

The Plaza Mayor is one of the most spectacular ones in Spain. I would agree. -- Salamanca, Spain

Having left so early, I had missed out on any chance of breakfast. Luckily, being in Spain, and being in Salamanca, and being in the old city centre, there were cafes everywhere. Like everywhere. There must be no actual inhabitants in the old city - just restaurants, cafes and hotels. Pretty but... maybe sad?

Either way, I stopped for a capp and an amazing croissant (says he who is not hugely crazy about croissants) and lounged a few more minutes before continuing on my way. I wound through the old streets then down to the river and rode across the Roman bridge (possible as old as from 29 BC) to get a few APs of the Bridge with the Catedrals in the background.

Seeing as I had left my hostal early this morning to get to the train station then was on the train for three hours... I was hungry. I stopped at one of the MANY cafes for a capp and a croissant. The fresh croissant had been sliced in half and grilled to warm it up. Wow. -- Salamanca, Spain

The Casa de las Conchas is a historical building which currently houses a public library. It was built from 1493 to 1517. -- Salamanca, Spain

La Clerecía is the name given to the building of the former Real Colegio del Espíritu Santo (or Santo Espíritu) of the Society of Jesus, built in Salamanca between the 17th and 18th centuries. The symbol on the road is a guide pose for the Camino de Santiago. -- Salamanca, Spain

Where is the frog of Salamanca?The famous frog of Salamanca can be found on the main university building's most famous architectural piece 'La Puerta de Salamanca'. The University's facade is a plateresque design (a type of intricate stonework seen on many of the famous buildings of Salamanca) containing many highly decorative stone carvings. -- Salamanca, Spain

In the centre of the Patio de las Escuelas (Schools court) of Salamanca is a monument to friar Luis de León, the poet and sixteenth century Spanish Augustinian. -- Salamanca, Spain

Cathedral of Salamanca which is, in fact, two churches joined together. First, the old cathedral dating from the 12th-13th centuries; and the new one from the 16th century. The Old Cathedral is in the Romanesque style with the outstanding Gallo Tower. The Roman bridge of Salamanca also known as Puente Mayor del Tormes crosses the Tormes River. Construction possibly started as early as 27 BC. -- Salamanca, Spain

I decided I'd look for my hotel just in case my room was ready - and it was. They allowed me to bring my bike right through the foyer, down the stairs and into their walled garden for safekeeping. As I always say, this is so important - no bike means no tour. The room is a beautiful one with exposed stone blocks and wooden ceiling beams.

My little room in the Microtel Placentinos, in the old city centre. Beautiful little spot and only a few minutes' walk to the Plaza Mayor. -- Salamanca, Spain

I wandered the old centre, windng my way through this street and along that street. Most of the buildings were this sandy hue from the stone they used. -- Salamanca, Spain

One of the twisty streets just around the corner from my microtel. It was very enjoyable to meander these old streets. -- Salamanca, Spain

After dumping my things in the room I went out to wander some more to explore this beautiful city until it started to warm up (30 C again) so at siesta time I came back to the room for my very own siesta. This also gave me the chance to explore youtube videos about my GPS and it seems that the power button problem I am experiencing is not uncommon. Though not a perfect fix, it looks like I might very possibly be able to use the unit for this tour and once home, be able to make a workable repair on it to add a few more years to its life.

Around 630 pm I went searching for a restaurant for dinner but was told they do not start serving until 8 pm. I figured this but thought they might have changed that tradition. Seeing as this is my third night in Spain, I suppose I should start behaving like the locals and eat when their restaurants say it is time. So I shall. Restaurante Don Quijote, which is at the end of my street, awaits my return any time after 8 pm tonight. This might be followed by some evening/night APs. Or. it might be followed by my heading settling into my pillow.

Restaurant Salam, right across the street from my hotel. I chose unique after my Spanish choice did not have paella tonight. -- Salamanca, Spain

Moussaka, pita and hummus at Restaurant Salam. -- Salamanca, Spain

I was obviously out and about when it was dusk-ish. Because I was feeling peck-ish.

I returned to the restaurant and ordered paella... only to be told there was no paella tonight. Absolutely shattered, I left and ended up stopping in the place right across from my hotel. The place had a neat feel to it and the meal was very good. And I drank about a litre of water. Dehydrated I might be.

Wanting to see the Plaza Mayor lit up I zipped over there for a few APs then wandered the streets back toward my hotel. Where this morning and this afternoon there were people about, tonight the streets were jammed pack with families, students, tourists... big difference. Restaurant tables on the streets were all full with people eating and drinking. How do Spaniards afford to eat out always?

Now back at my room, I have sorted my panniers for tomorrow for the short though tough ride. I have a really high climb so I expect there to be some walking as well as cycling.

All streets in the old city were full of people either walking about or having dinner at one of the myriad restaurants. -- Salamanca, Spain

Today's ride: 24 km (15 miles)
Total: 24 km (15 miles)

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Steve Miller/GrampiesHere in Portugal we are finding some totally accurate French style croissants, though often they are miniaturized, and then there are croissant-like things that are breadier and sweeter than they "should" be. Our present hotel in Regua has real croissants, and I am so happy!
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1 year ago

Brent IrvineTo Steve Miller/GrampiesI think I might be the oddball. Though a traditionalist by nature, when it comes to croissants I tend to prefer that breadier, sweeter croissant, and even better (gasp!) with Nutella inside.
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1 year ago