A loop in the Vercors

April 26, 2022

Well, good news. We both slept well last night, feel surprisingly recovered and ready to roll. A considerable amount of time was spent last night sketching out candidates for the day’s ride, but it was worth the effort. We ended up with one we’re both happy with - challenging but not devastating, and taking us through some of the highlights of the region. It helps to set the stage with proposals with 6,500’ of climbing and long 10% grades. In that context, this 42 mile ride with nothing much worse than 7-8% looks pretty good!

It begins with a climb up the lower half of the Bourne Gorge, which begins almost as soon as we leave the hotel. It’s a climb - about 1,500’ in eight miles - but the lower half really isn’t too bad, maybe 5-7% most of the way; and with frequent reasons to stop and gape in astonishment the miles go easily. It’s the easiest route up into the high country. It’s also the busiest, which shied me away from considering it at first. Riding eight miles uphill on a twisting, shoulderless two lane mountain road sounded intimidating; but it was just fine. On a weekday morning this early in the season there was really very little traffic to share the road with. I’m sure it helps that it’s such a contorted road that sometimes shrinks to one lane, so no one is really in a hurry.

Approaching the lower end of the Bourne Gorge.

It’s a beautiful time to be here, with the morning sun rising above the ridges and illuminating the formations above as we climb.

I can’t place this spectacular waterfall on the map. It would be nice to see it later in the day, but with the sun behind it it’s hard to get a good look.

The Bourne Gorge grows more dramatic with every mile.

Eight miles in we come to a crossroads - the road up the gorge continues climbing for several more miles, becoming even narrower and more dramatic further up - as we remember, because we dropped through from the top end on our first visit to the Vercors. Or, we could branch left and north toward Rencurel. Or, as we’re doing today, we can turn right and continue climbing toward Saint Julian and beyond. A three mile climb takes us high above the gorge, gives us a wonderful view back into it, and after it finally levels off brings us to St. Julien, the village we stayed at for our first night here the last time.

Le Baum de Rencurel, at the crossroads in the Bourne Gorge.

We could have stayed in this place once, but it looks like those days are long past.

A look back to the Bourne Gorge, now almost a thousand feet below us.

For nostalgic reasons, let’s look again at the place in Saint-Julien-en-Vercors where we stayed last time.

We’re finally topped out and have a brief respite with a five mile coast down to Saint-Martin. It’s gorgeous, biking through this pastoral upland depression with a limestone ridge lining it to the east - but we’re up at 3,000’ and it’s chilly enough that the coats and Rachael’s warm gloves go on; and it’s clouding over and looking just a bit gloomy, making us a little anxious about the weather up in this remote location.

Fortunately the clouds do no more than just threaten; and after we bottom out and start the next long climb the coats immediately come off again. This second climb, bringing us to a small snowshoeing resort at Col du Carri, is about equal to the long climb up and out of the Bourne Gorge. Toward the top of the climb we look back across the valley, high enough up now that we can just see east across the top of the Vercors to the snow-covered Alps beyond.

At the summit we’re at 4,000’ and there are still patches of snow in the shadows. We layer up again, stop for a trophy shot and then drop through the woods to Col de la Machine at the top of the famous Combe Laval. I hear Rachael talking to her GoPro as we descend but remind her to save her film - she’ll need it when we coast down the jaw-dropping, vertiginous Combe Laval, a road that made it onto our last visit also.

Descending toward Saint-Martin-en-Vercors.

This is such inspiring country to cycle through, with miles of nearly empty roads and incredible views every which way you look.

Climbing out of the valley, we see the peaks of the Alps to the east.

A last look back at the long depression we’ve been rolling through for the last ten miles.

But we’re not biking down the Combe Laval after all. In a surprise development we find that the road is closed for five days for repairs from a rockslide - we’re here two days too late, or three days too early. Some of the best views are right here from the top though, and while I stop to absorb them Rachael rashly decides to bike through the first short tunnel for a better view - a move that gives me the yipes when a large gravel hauler comes out a few minutes later. I wait a few minutes longer and then go down to peek through the tunnel and see her on the other side, beckoning me to come through myself. And she’s right - the views are astonishing, and we make it back out uncrushed.

The Combe Laval, from the Col de la Machine.

So, unexpectedly we’re returning to town on the deviation route. We don’t have it mapped on the Garmins which makes Rachael concerned. I’m not worried though because I know this road - I scoped it out yesterday when considering the alternatives. I remember that it just parallels the closed road, on the opposite side of the cirque. I’d forgotten that it begins with an additional 300’ climb, which neither of us is enthusiastic about. And it’s not as dramatic, unnerving or vertiginous but it’s exciting enough - especially with an unlit 250 meter tunnel with a dogleg bend in the middle that spooks us both.

And, in a final twist to the day, when we get back to the room Rachael finds that she somehow shot this descent at warp speed. Not exactly what she wanted, but good for you - you can see more of the descent (and the tunnel!) with minimal time investment.

On the top of the world looking down on creation, taking care not to fall backwards.

Looking across the valley we can see why the road is closed temporarily - about half of it has gone over the edge. Glad we weren’t there when it happened!

Now this is really scary. Good thing we have tail lights, but headlights would have been a bright idea too.

after a twelve mile descent we approach the valley floor.

Approaching Pont-en-Royans, with one of my favorite formations in the Vercors ahead.

Video sound track: Hanuman, by Rodrigo y Gabriella

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Ride stats today: 44 miles, 5,100; for the tour: 1,113 miles, 54,800’

Today's ride: 44 miles (71 km)
Total: 1,113 miles (1,791 km)

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Susan CarpenterGlad you felt reinvigorated after a good night's sleep - it looks like a great ride. Thanks
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2 years ago

Jacquie GaudetThat descent made me dizzy!

I dream of going back to the Vercors, an area I'd never heard of until I read your French Alps journal. I was so intrigued that I planned our 2017 tour based on it, along with many others. The Vercors was my favourite part and needs a return trip.
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Jacquie GaudetYou should come back! Do it soon while you’re still young. Those grades get tougher every year.
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2 years ago

Jacquie GaudetYeah, that's why I'm so unhappy about missing two years thanks to the damned pandemic!
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2 years ago

Kathleen ClassenWe went to the Vercors after both you and Jacquie, based on your journals, and we also, can’t wait to go back.
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2 years ago

Lorenzo JarreWow that looks like a great ride! Wish I had your route planning skills 😅
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Lorenzo JarreThe Vercors is a brilliant area for riding, if you’re not too troubled by hills and heights. A place to put on your list when you’re ready for Western Europe again.
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2 years ago