October 5, 2021
In Trento: Here’s that rainy day
We knew it was coming and have been expecting it for several days. It keeps pushing out, but finally it’s here. It’s almost a relief, really. We’ve got errands to attend to, laundry to be washed, the journal to catch up on, and we’re both physically overdue for a true day off. Looking back, we haven’t had a day where we didn’t bike or take a significant hike since almost a month ago back in Starnberg when we took the day off to visit with Suzanne and Janos. And before that, the previous day off was the another month earlier after we arrived in Antwerp when we were frantically puzzling over how to get our suitcases shipped forward to our final destination.
At our ages, two days off in two months is well below quota. It’s time.
Oh, wait. The weather keeps exceeding expectations, and we get a few hours this morning nice enough to venture out. Rachael makes a trip to the laundry and then heads down to the river for a brisk, scenic walk:
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And I have my own errands to run - to the restaurant we’re eying for tonight, to place a reservation; and to the train station, to pick up tickets for tomorrow. And then, finally, the rains really do come so I scurry back to the room.
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3 years ago
Planning Ahead
So we’re at another break point in the tour - and not the one we anticipated at the previous projection. Then, we expected to arrive at Piacenza about now, by way of Udine, Pordenone, Verona and Cremona; but with our detours to Slovenia and Trento we’ve ended up in a different place entirely. Which is fine - it’s been an exceptional past two weeks. To bring us current, here are the actuals to date:
Antwerp to Heidelberg:
- 18 cycling days
- 685 miles
- 17,000’ elevation gain
- 3 flat tires
Heidelberg to Salzburg:
- 16 cycling days
- 575 miles
- 23,000’ elevation gain
- 3 (!) CycleBlaze meetups
- No flat tires!
Salzburg to Trento:
- 13 cycling days
- 445 miles
- 19,000’ elevation gain
- 1 flat tire.
The next block of the tour is a significant change to our original plan for Italy. When we first started discussing this tour we anticipated spending a significant amount of time at the end in Tuscany and Umbria - possibly three or four weeks.
That plan is out the door though, partly driven by the weather forecasts, partly because they’ve reminded us of how much we were enjoying the Piemonte three years ago when we were biking through on our tour from Dubrovnik to Gerona; and only the tiniest bit because we’re not sure how much we’re really enjoy beating us up for a month on those Tuscan and Umbrian hill towns.
When we were in the Piemonte three years ago we arrived late in October; and when the rains arrived with a vengeance at the first of November they drove us south earlier than we wanted. We had plans of biking to Cuneo at the base of the Alps and then biking south through the hills to the Mediterranean, but heavy rain and severe flooding put that out of the question. As it was, we were lucky to be able to catch a train south to Genoa.
The weather for the next two weeks in the Piemonte looks to be brilliant - one day after another of partly sunny, mild weather. So we’re heading west, beginning with a train ride tomorrow morning to Crema while we ride out another day of rain. Beyond Cuneo we’ll think again about how to wrap up the tour, but one way or another it will involve a train ride down to central Italy because that’s where our suitcases and the flight home are and there won’t be time enough left for these old legs to bike that far.
Salzburg to Cuneo (projected):
- 13 cycling days
- 400 miles
- 15,000’ elevation gain
- No flat tires!
We hang around our apartment all afternoon, our time largely taken up by finalizing the route and lodging for our upcoming tour of the Piemonte. At seven we head out to the restaurant I booked a table for earlier in the day. And it’s a good thing we had a reservation! For the first twenty minutes we’re the only diners in the place, but finally two other tables are filled.
Over dinner we celebrate the start of our fifth and final month on the road for this tour. We talk over the new plan, and debate which country we love the most - France or Italy. A difficult call, but this evening I feel very happy at the thought of another five weeks here before we fly home. Afterwards we walk back to our apartment by way of the illuminated Piazza Italia and a bar where we sat top for a chaser - Rachael has tiramisu, while I enjoy a strudel and americano. None of this makes me think any the less of this place. We’ve been on the road a long time now but I’m sure the coming month will fly by.
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Seems like an incredible tour so far. I have been writing it down as I think we might copy it religiously!
Loving reading each entry with my morning coffee
3 years ago
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Keith
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Looks like you’ll be going through Acquiterme. I HIGHLY recommend a stop at Cascina Marcantonio, a b-n-b with restaurant owned by my friend and fellow cyclist Guido Rapetti. It’s above the city surrounded by vineyards (also Guido’s) and his mom’s cooking is wonderful. Tell them Keith sent you!
Cheers,
Keith
3 years ago
Ann
3 years ago
I just checked Guido’s website and it seems he’s upgraded his place to a three star hotel. Still recommended.
Cheers,
Keith
3 years ago
You two are war horses - of course you need a day off every month or so! Sounds like a great change in plans, one i'm certain you'll enjoy. As will we following along. BTW - great jersey Rachael!
Susan
3 years ago
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