In Salzburg: a day ride to the Königssee - The Road to Rome, Part Two: Europe - CycleBlaze

September 19, 2021

In Salzburg: a day ride to the Königssee

It’s beautiful today, so for our last whole day in Salzburg we opt for a ride rather than playing tourists.  Perhaps some year we’ll come back and actually visit these colorful places we’ve been staying at here, but with change in the air it feels like we really should ride while we can.

We wait around until about ten before leaving, giving the day a chance to warm up a bit first.  On the way out we note with interest that ours are not the only Bike Fridays in the garage.  Most unusual!

Most peculiar: two other Bike Fridays in our hotel’s garage this morning!
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Steve Miller/GrampiesDodie here: I thought I recognized the bike parking garage. We just stayed at the same hotel in Salzberg, and placed our bikes in exactly the same spots. Weird world full of coincidences, isn't it?
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2 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Steve Miller/GrampiesI thought so. I didn’t see any photos of the hotel, but it looked from your track that you were here. It’s also the hotel the McLeods stayed when they were in Salzburg.
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2 years ago

Before leaving town Rachael stops to make adjustments to her newest eToy - the new GoPro 9 she picked up yesterday on that mysterious errand we rushed back to Salzburg for.  The old one is showing some wear, and the 9 has allegedly greatly improved image stabilization, a better mounting system, and an improved battery life over the version 7 she picked up east of Menton three years ago.  This is the third GoPro she’s bought on the road - the previous one was from three years before that, in Annecy; so she was due.  A new GoPro every three years, whether she needs it or not.

New GoPro!
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The Königssee is a famously beautiful finger lake buried deep in the Berchtesgadener Alps, surrounded by jagged peaks.  It does look spectacular from the photographs.  Despite the slightly misleading title though we don’t actually bike to the Königssee today.  We do go nearly to the southern end of it though, turning back about a mile shy when we felt like we’d ridden enough and the foot traffic streaming to the lake as we neared it was becoming uncomfortably dense.

It was a beautiful, scenic ride even without seeing the lake, although there was a fair amount more of it on unpaved surfaces than RideWithGPS indicated.  The Berchtesgaden looks like a really spectacular area and worth a more in depth visit.  If we come back to the region some year we should plan on overnighting closer to the lake.

For much of our day the ride is overshadowed by the massive Berchtesgaden Alps.
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I don’t know why there’s not more smiling in this photo. It sure looks like fun to me.
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Steve Miller/GrampiesEven the pony looks down in the mouth!
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3 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Steve Miller/GrampiesNow that one at least I understand.
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3 years ago
Some of the best riding of the day was here, beneath the face of the Berchtesgaden Alps.
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About ten miles into the ride we come to this small river, the Berchtesgadener Ache, and follow it for the rest of the way up.
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The surrounding hills are green and beautiful. It’s increasingly windy as the day wears on, but the weather is otherwise perfect for enjoying the ride.
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An alternative to eBikes when we get too old and frail for the pushers.
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The rushing Berchtesgadener Ache has a beautiful aquamarine hue.
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In the village of Berchtesgaden.
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The former Berchtesgaden royal palace.
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The former Berchtesgaden royal palace.
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In the village of Berchtesgaden.
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The Triftsteg, now a more or less ornamental footbridge across the river. Historically though it functioned as a bumper to divert logs flowing down the river to a still spot by the bank.
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The Berchtesgadener Ache again.
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Looking up at the peaks of the Walzmann, the third highest mountain in Germany and the highest entirely within its national borders.
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Mountains abound around.
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The Berchtesgaden is on the German side of the border, so here we’re reentering Austria on our way back. The GBO bounces with excitement when he sees we’re coming to a new country. Tactfully we don’t fill him in on the fact that he’s already been in Austria for a week now without seeing any of it.
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Jen RahnAwesome!!

Though immensely complex in his thinking, his perceptions are almost entirely linked to the visual.

His very small ears probably didn't cue him in on any prior Austrian experience. Especially since they were covered by layers of pannier innards.
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3 years ago
A castle in Salzburg.
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We make it back to the hotel around 4, starving and interested in dinner.  We’re disappointed that those other two Bike Fridays aren’t in the garage  now because it means our dinner plans are still ambiguous.  With a Food Crisis just around the corner, it’s a relief to find an email in my inbox requesting us to pick a restaurant.

So we knew what those Bike Fridays were doing in our garage, of course.  In a tour with an already impressive list of coincidences, here’s one more: Pat and Scott Fenwick just arrived in Salzburg yesterday at the start of their current tour that just went up on CycleBlaze about a week ago.  Scott reached out to let us know that they’d be in town in case we were still around when they arrived.

Further compounding the coincidence, when I got back to Scott about how we might meet up, we discovered that we’re all booked into the same hotel!  Remarkable.  So, our third CycleBlaze meetup in three weeks!

Establishing a tradition of sorts, we reserve a table at Biccofino, the same restaurant we ate at with Susan Carpenter last week.  So that’s our spot - in the future, whenever we meet up with CycleBlazers in Salzburg we’ll do it at Biccofino.

We have a terrific meeting, easily finding much to talk about.  After a couple of hours we cash out and head back to the hotel, still engrossed in conversation enough that it takes us awhile to realize we have no idea where we are or are going and have to pull-up the map to head back in the right direction.  A great first meeting, and with them living so close to our own ‘home’, I feel confident it won’t be the last.  One of these times we should have another grand CycleBlaze meetup in Vancouver or Victoria and try to break the record set two summers ago when ten (!) CBers gathered at the home of Keith and Kathleen Classen.  I know of at least six other CBers living up there, so with some planning we could probably permanently retire the trophy.

Rocky with Team Fenwick at Ristorante Biccofino, the same spot we dined at with Susan last week.
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A historic meeting: two Scotts in Salzburg!
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Ride stats today: 40 miles, 1,400’; for the tour: 1,300 miles, 43,100’

Today's ride: 40 miles (64 km)
Total: 1,300 miles (2,092 km)

Rate this entry's writing Heart 11
Comment on this entry Comment 7
Suzanne GibsonTwo Scotts in Salzburg calls for a haiku!

Two Scotts in Salzburg
With their wives at one table
Serendipity
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3 years ago
Emily SharpCertainly some nice routes and gorgeous mountains in recent days. I think I would be torn between touring and backpacking (multi-day hiking)... would probably have to do a bit of both. Someday, maybe... South America is definitely further ahead on my list of places to visit after my ties to North America have lessened. Hope the weather holds and you've got more warm, sunny days ahead.
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3 years ago
Jen RahnTo Suzanne GibsonGood one!

And another:
Pat, Rachael, and Scotts
And four Handsome Bike Fridays
CycleBlaze Salzburg!
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3 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Emily SharpI’ve really been surprised by how rewarding it has been through here. Like most places, we really traveled through too fast last time. I’m sure that it would be a fantastic hiking and backpacking area too, but overnights are beyond me know. It’s enough to ask my knees to carry my sorry carcass without throwing a pack on top of the load.
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3 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Suzanne GibsonSuch an honor! It’s been a long time since we’ve seen a Gibson haiku in these pages.
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3 years ago
Suzanne GibsonTo Jen RahnGood one, Jen!
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3 years ago
Scott FenwickScott and Rachael
I can see that this comment is already a couple of days behind. We also had a great time meeting both of you in Salzburg. I am glad everything worked out for you with your bikes. Too bad about the helmet.
In Mondsee now. Gmunden tomorrow and then off to Hallstatt on your recommended routing. It looks like the weather and routing will be spectacular. Thank you for everything. Take care,
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3 years ago