Last day riding - What to do between doctor’s visits, part 2 - CycleBlaze

August 14, 2019

Last day riding

I knew last night that I would not be going much further on this tour. The weather for the next few days looks to be much wetter than it has been, with rain predicted through the weekend. On top of that, my allergies have been playing up, and I have a small saddle sore. That gets one where it hurts! So with the sun out this morning, I am headed for Brive la Gaillard where I will begin the long journey home.

The ride leaving Argentat was beautiful. I find it very difficult to capture scenery with my small camera, but the views along the valley of the Dordogne were fantastic. You’ll just have to use your imagination, though as I really didn’t stop to take any pictures. I always find that my landscape pictures are disappointing anyway. The river was being fished by numerous fly fisher-persons, hoping to catch grayling I suppose. In my opinion the best way to enjoy this valley is probably in a canoe, and there are plenty of places where one can rent a canoe or kayak for the day or by the week. Maybe someday I’ll have to do that.

The road along the Dordogne wouldn’t get me to Brive, so after twenty kilometers I had to leave the river valley and start climbing. The easiest way up the hills was on a busy highway, but it was still early so I chanced it. I only had to be on this road for six kilometers, and the gradient was very gentle so I really didn’t have any problems. After turning off on the road to Brive, the climbing began in earnest, interspersed with descents. I passed a road cyclist on one of the descents only to have home repas me on the next climb. After about an hour of ups and downs, I came to Collonges-la-Rouge, “one of the most beautiful villages in France”.

It’s called “la Rouge” because all the buildings are made of red sandstone. It has retained the medieval layout and is really stunning in its ensemble.
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The only problem is that the whole world wants to see it all at the same time. Even at ten in the morning, it was packed with tourists. The village provides pay lots for the cars that arrive, and there is bus parking on both sides of the main road to accommodate the hoards.

But the village is beautiful. Even ven the rooflines are interesting.
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In typical medieval fashion, the buildings are crowded in on each other. The church portal is seen here from inside the old covered market. Ironically, just about the only space in the village where there is nothing for sale to the crowd is the market.
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Leaving Collonges, I had a couple of climbs yet to do before I could get to Brive. After the first of these that was a screaming descent at 10% for over a kilometer. I was glad not to be going the other way up that monster. As it was I hit speeds of over 60 kph !

The last climb seemed to go on forever, but finally, 15 km from Brive the summit appeared and it was all downhill. No pedaling at all until I arrived in the center city. I made a stop at the railway station to arrange trains for tomorrow, and stopped for a salad in the city center. Finishing lunch I got to the hotel and ended the riding for the day.

I decided to celebrate a little so selected a nice restaurant for supper.The Bistro C. Forget had an interesting menu, so I went there. I know what I said about bistros. This restaurant was NOT such a place, despite the name. The food was prepared from fresh ingredients but served at a very high level of culinary perfection. It was probably the best meal of the trip.

A hand written menu is always a good sign of a quality restaurant.
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Gregory GarceauA hand written menu is definitely a good sign of a quality restaurant, as you say, but such perfect penmanship is practically a GUARANTEE of a quality restaurant. I just wish I could read it.

Even though I can't understand the menu completely, I can pick up on enough of the words to be able to dream about eating it.

Oh wait. I see you've provided some translations with your photos below.
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5 years ago
For the entree: croustillant de pieds de cochon et escargots. Crispy pigs trotters and snails.
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Main course: Poitrine de veau farci avec fois gras avens petites legumes facon grande mere. Veal flank stuffed with fois gras served with little vegetables grandmother’s style.
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Dessert: white chocolate souffle with nougat ice on the side. I couldn’t wait so I took a bite before remembering to take a photo!
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A very nice way to end the tour.

Today's ride: 63 km (39 miles)
Total: 982 km (610 miles)

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Keith KleinOops. Supposed to be kph, not mph. Autocorrect got me again.
Still 38mph on a loaded bike is moooovin’!
Cheers,
Keith
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5 years ago
Kathleen JonesTo Keith KleinPhew. But yes, 60kph IS moving. Nice little tour, Keith. Thanks.
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5 years ago