Day 1: Ephrata to Coulee City

July 16, 2021

The day started at Ephrata Inn, with my bike inside the car parked outside. I drove 2 miles south to the Oasis RV Park and parked my car in the overflow lot just outside the RV Park. The pedaling began at 8:15 AM.

First I pedaled northeast 3 miles to downtown Ephrata to look around. It's the northernmost farm town in the Columbia Basin irrigation project. It's also the county seat of Grant county.

I wandered around the downtown area and noticed the courthouse, a huge Bureau of Reclamation office building, and an outdoor AMTRAK stop so minor that it doesn't even have a platform. Downtown has nice parks and government jobs, but the business district is struggling. Newly developed sprawl on the west side of town appears to be prosperous.

Ephrata isn't an especially old town. It was founded in about 1910. It was a ranching town until irrigation water became available in the early 1950's.

The state of Washington was settled 30 years later than Oregon and California. Oregon gained statehood in 1859. Washington gained statehood 30 years later in 1889.

From downtown Ephrata I continued northeast on WA 17 to the smaller town of Soap Lake, passing the northernmost irrigated farms in the Columbia Basin Project.

The last irrigated farm before entering the Coulee.

I stopped for a long time in Soap Lake to see the lake and the town. It's somewhat of a resort town. The alkaline lake is the main attraction, but I didn't notice any claims about healing properties. I saw several people wading in the shallow lake.

Spring-fed Soap Lake is very alkaline like soap. Mouth of the Grand Coulee visible in the distance.

I didn't have much for breakfast, so I was very hungry. Couldn't find a restaurant open, so I got a breakfast burrito from the supermarket's deli.

Soap Lake Inn is on the shore of Soap Lake.

Northeast of Soap Lake I immediately enter the narrow canyon of the Grand Coulee.

Soap lake is a natural spring-fed lake. For the remainder of the day I passed a string of man-made reservoirs in the Grand Coulee. Lenore lake, Alkali lake, Blue lake, and Park lake. The lakes are a small part of the water delivery system for the Columbia Basin Project. Best I can tell the Grand Coulee would be dry if not for humans diverting water into the Coulee.

Lenore Lake and WA 17 in the lower Grand Coulee.

WA 17 stays close to the lakes in a narrow canyon. Many places the highway is adjacent to rocky cliffs, with no shoulder. Or a narrow shoulder completely covered with fallen rocks. The first 10 miles after Soap Lake were the only unsafe road of the trip. All other roads had wider shoulders or much less traffic. Traffic was moderate, about half commercial and half recreational.

The Coulees are famous for having house-sized boulders deposited by flood waters in the middle of the valley.

WA 17 and Blue Lake. Better shoulder now.

After Blue lake WA 17 begins climbing steadily, with great views looking back at Park lake. I planned to go in the park to see Dry Falls from the bottom, but somehow neglected to make the turn.

Climbing above Park Lake. Below is the road I should have taken to see Dry Falls from below.

Still higher, looking down the Grand Coulee towards the Columbia river.

After climbing 500 feet I turned into the Dry Falls State Park visitor center. It's right next to the highway, with unobstructed views of Dry Falls.

Dry Falls is regarded to be the world's largest dry waterfall. 3.5 miles (5.6 km) wide and 400 feet (122 m) high.

I stopped for a long time at the Dry Falls overlook. Got a Huckleberry shake from the food truck. It was early afternoon. The temperature was 85F. Nice in the shade, hot without shade.

Dry Falls is in about the middle of the Grand Coulee. Today I saw the lower Grand Coulee below Dry Falls. Tomorrow I will see the upper Grand Coulee above Dry Falls.

Visitor Center overlooking Dry Falls, looking downstream.

Looking across Dry Falls I could see today's destination, the town of Coulee City. The town is just east of Dry Falls.

Upstream from Dry Falls WA 17 merges with busier US 2 for 3 miles to cross Dry Falls dam. Banks lake on my left, several deeply eroded channels on the right leading to the Dry Falls. Wikipedia says the earthen dam is 123 feet tall but it doesn't seem that tall.

Looking right at one of several pouroffs leading to the Dry Falls.

Looking left at Banks Lake. It has a huge straw behind Grand Coulee Dam.

Banks Lake is the headwaters of the Columbia Basin Project. At the end of the dam I passed the beginning of the Main Canal which waters a million acres of crops in south central Washington. The water passes through a hydro power plant when dropping 100 feet from the lake to the canal.

Beginning of the Main Canal which irrigates a million acres of crops in the Columbia Basin Project.

Irrigated fields of the Columbia Basin Project.

Map of the Columbia Basin Project canal system.

I arrived in Coulee City at 2:30, before check-in time. So I explored the big city park on the lakefront, then explored the downtown area.

One end of Main street is a grain elevator. The other end of Main street is a school.

Couleegan's Bar and Grill was the only restaurant open in town.

Dinner at Couleegan's Bar and Grill. Philly cheese steak sandwich, fries, and Elysian IPA.

Tonight's home is Banks Lake Lodge which is in downtown Coulee City and not on the shore of Banks Lake. I arrived early enough to take a 1 hour nap before dinner. Dinner was 2 blocks away at Couleegans, the only restaurant open in town.

Today was a good start to the tour. High temperature of only 87F (30C). Sunny, no smoke, minimal wind. Sand flies in one area, but few insects overall. I should have detoured to the bottom of Dry Falls, though. I had the time and energy.

Distance: 36.6 miles (58.6 km)
Average Speed: 8.7 mph (14 km/h)
Ascent/Descent: +1008/-712 feet (+307/-217 m)

Today's ride: 37 miles (60 km)
Total: 37 miles (60 km)

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