Day 31: Tyee to Susan Creek campground

September 15, 2011

Map of today's route.

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Today is a long day and I have errands to run in Roseburg. I got on the road at 8:15. The sky was partly cloudy, but for the first 20 miles I was in nearly constant shade from a tall ridge to the east.

After a minute on highway 138 I turned right onto Tyee road, a no-traffic county road that goes 22 meandering miles along the river. I've biked Tyee road dozens of times, but I always ride it in the afternoon. This was my first time to ride it in the morning. It's shady in the afternoon, but relentlessly cold and shady in the morning.

At about the midpoint of Tyee road I turned onto the long 1-lane bridge across the river. It has a great view of the river in both directions.

Tyee road has frequent river views but is usually far above the river. The only convenient river access is at 2 boat ramps and a county park.

Looking downstream from the Tyee Access bridge. The clearcut wasn't there a few months ago.

At the end of Tyee road I stopped at the Lighthouse Center cafe for a muffin and chai and ran into somebody I know. Other than my wife last night, it was the first time I've seen somebody I know in a month. Dick Dolgonas is an avid cyclist and skier. The Lighthouse Center is a popular stop for local cyclists. I'm one of them-I live 10.5 miles away and come here often.

The Lighthouse Center serves organic vegetarian fare that is not widely sold in rural areas like this. It's operated by a meditation center that is probably the only genuine commune in the area. The restaurant is very successful, and their mountaintop home/organic farm/meditation center is awesome as well.

Breakfast #2 at the Lighthouse Center. I go here often. It's only 10.5 miles from home.

The final segment to Roseburg is 13 miles on Garden Valley road. It starts out rural, with many interesting farms.

Hazelnut orchard. Hazelnuts are the leading nut crop in Oregon and Washington.

I took this picture on July 7 when blueberries were on the bushes. The scene wasn't as interesting in September.

A few minutes of sunshine on Garden Valley road.

Garden Valley road has some river views but doesn't have a view of river forks, where the Umpqua river splits into the North Umpqua and South Umpqua. Coming into Roseburg I cross the North Umpqua river but won't see it again until Glide.

Crossing the North Umpqua river for the first time. I paddle this section often.

Traffic builds for the last few miles to Roseburg as the surrounding area becomes mostly residential. Fortunately a good shoulder appears as the traffic builds.

At the top of a hill I suddenly enter Roseburg. Then it was downhill through suburban traffic to I-5. I stopped at WalMart to by a fuel canister. Also at Fred Meyer, the only supermarket on the route in Roseburg. The next big supermarket will be 4 days ahead.

Just before crossing I-5 I turned right onto the bike trail that goes south along I-5 for half a mile, then along the South Umpqua river to downtown Roseburg.

Bike trail along the South Umpqua river in Roseburg.

The South Umpqua river is warmer than the North Umpqua river. It's a good place to swim in May, June, or July. The flow is very low in late summer, causing the bacteria to increase. Swim at your own risk then.

South Umpqua river in the middle of Roseburg.

In downtown Roseburg I stopped for lunch at Bagel Tree near the library. Then I headed out of town on Douglas street past the courthouse and some of the oldest homes in Roseburg. It's an interesting neighborhood. Many homes are built on very steep slopes.

Douglas county courthouse and the huge courthouse Elm.

Craftsman-style home on a steep slope on Douglas street, Roseburg.

Douglas Street dumped me onto highway 138 which is now a busy 4-lane highway. After half a mile I escaped onto Buckhorn road, another delightful rural road with great scenery and no traffic. But it climbs a small mountain, topping out at 1348 feet elevation before descending below 700 feet to highway 138 in Glide.

A bit more sunshine on Buckhorn road east of Roseburg.

In Glide I return to the North Umpqua river where the Little River "collides" with the North Umpqua. From here I will follow the North Umpqua watershed all the way up to Crater Lake.

Colliding rivers in Glide. Very low flow now.

The route to Crater Lake is only open about 6 months per year.

3 miles east of Glide is Idleyld Park, the last bit of civilization before the road enters the Cascades. After Idleyld Park the highway immediately enters a narrow canyon with the road on a ledge blasted into the canyon wall. I'm entering the Cascade range now. The river now has a large gradient, with frequent ledge drops. The biggest ledge drop is Deadline Falls which drops 9 feet. A keeper undercurrent makes it a deadly Class V rapid for humans going downriver, but salmon and steelhead can be seen jumping UP the waterfall!

The North Umpqua river drops 9 feet at Deadline falls. It's a popular place to watch Salmon and Steelhead jump up.

North Umpqua river, now in the low Cascades.

Tonight's destination is Susan Creek Recreation Site. It's on the river and is unusually deluxe for a BLM campground, with flush toilets and showers. $14. The steep canyon and giant trees make me feel like I'm deep in the mountains, but I'm really just on the edge of the Cascades. The elevation is only 950 feet. The climb to Crater Lake has barely started.

Half a mile before the campground I passed the Susan Creek Falls trailhead. It was getting late, so I decided to go there tomorrow morning to allow more daylight at the campsite this evening.

Distance: 75 mi. (120 km)
Climbing: 2670 ft. (809 m)
Average Speed: 11.1 mph (17.8 km/h)

Today's ride: 75 miles (121 km)
Total: 1,578 miles (2,540 km)

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