Hull to Beverley

May 1, 2024

more sunshine

The glass doors are still closed when I arrive outside the Hull History Centre around 9:15. A few others join me waiting.

Once inside, there's no problem getting on a machine to read the files of the old newspapers. There are just three dates for me to check and the report for the first football game was in October, 1944, and the match report mentions that my dad played against Leeds United. I get a copy printed out for a £1. It's doesn't look that sharp, but it'll have to do. Maybe I can make it a bit better using Photoshop.

The sun is out again as I wheel my bike from the rear yard of the hotel, where it was locked up for the night. It's shirt and shorts weather, but it's surprising how tired I feel after such a short day riding yesterday. My legs feel dead. Thankfully it's not far to go for my first photo session... just a block away to North Bridge.

What was originally a ship supplies warehouse next to the bridge has been converted into apartments. It was built in 1870, back when Hull was a thriving port, and I get onto the oppsosite bank for a decent shot then ride beside the river for barely a minute to see a listed Victorian school, built 11 years later.

Located next to North Bridge, this riverside warehouse was built in 1870 - it's now apartments

The former Charterhouse Board School (1881)

The Victorian board school addition is on the first corner and is being renovated when I ride past. I just take a snap of the stone lintel with Boys carved onto it.

Another sign of the city's former wealth is its Charterhouse school. It's just around the corner from the Victorian structure. The present building was completed around 1780 and is typically Georgian, with tall windows and iron railings on the low front wall. It's Grade 1 listed.

The listed building website also flagged up some early industrial buildings which are close by.

Almshouses at Hull Charterhouse built in 1778-80

Being quite nondescript, the Hull Hydraulic Power Company's red brick structure isn't one you would think would be listed. The building itself is basically supporting a cast iron sectional tank, which once stored pumped river water. Steam pumps subsequently pressurised this and the water was supplied to homes in the area. It was Hull's first public utility when it began operations back in the 1870s.

Just a block away is a four-storey construction that again doesn't grab you as being historically important. It's claim to fame is that it was the first built in England using the Hennebique principle of in-situ concrete. Frenchman Francois Hennebique developed his idea of using steel as reinforcement for poured concrete back in the early 1890s and this rectangular workshop dates back to 1900. It's currently standing empty and looks dejected.

Outside what was the Hull Hydraulic Power Company - 1875

The taller building was the first constructed in England using in-situ reinforced concrete (1900)

The tile-clad Lockwood Arms was built in 1914 by the Hull Brewery Co.

My route takes me through more of Hull's industrial area, most of which also looks to be on its knees. There are very few people around. I imagine 50 or 60 years ago it was thriving.

I walk across Sculcoates Bridge, which is currently under renovation. The steel, swinging structure is also listed and a plaque incorporated on its westen end tells me it was built in 1874.

A bike path then leads me past the large complex of pharmacetical makers Reckitt Benckister to Garden Village, which is a fine example of the James Reckitt's philanthrophy.

James Reckitt made his money from selling the family company's shoe polish and soap products, but felt uneasy knowing that many of his workers were living in squalid conditions. In 1907, he bought 160 acres just north of the city and formed The Garden Village Company with the aim of proving nice homes for his company's employees. Semi-detached houses were designed by architects Runton & Barry, which look very modern considering the first ones were built in 1907-8. As with other places, I've a few old photos to replicate, but get a bit lost in finding the Club House, which has a tea room. It's time for a break.

I ask a man clipping his privet hedge where it is and it turns out he's the treasurer of the local resident's organisation and knows all about Garden Village's history. He tells me the hedge was planted back in 1908.

The tea room is just up the road and it turns out to be a popular spot. There's one table free near the window and I order a bowl of soup and a frothy coffee, plus a wedge of cake to keep me going.

I've only cycled about 5km.

13 & 14 The Oval were built in 1907-08 in the first phase of the Garden Village

It's well gone midday and I need to make some progress.

A green bicycle path leads me part of the way, but finding the route further east gets complicated. The bike path signs disappear. I do manage to find my way to Cottingham and get onto a country lane that takes me north-ish, but it becomes a rough farm track and I miss a sign and end up at a railway crossing with gates that are understanably locked.

I bounce back and retrace my tracks and find the turning and while it's only about 5km more to Beverley, my legs are aching and it feels like this has been a long ride. Maybe it's these fat, knobbly tyres - they could certainly do with more air in them to improve their rolling resistance.

I make my way past Beverley Minster and ask in a couple of hotels in the central square, but they are fully booked. Who would have thought the place would be busy during the week: Not me, anyway.

It takes me a while to locate the Premier Inn, a last resort, but they usually have rooms and I'm in a perverse kind of luck. The rate is a silly £102, but by now I've thrown in the towel.

Once showered, I start to walk into town, but don't have the energy and double back. There's a large pub just across the road from the hotel and I have a meat pie for dinner in there before retreating back to my room to watch the Snooker World Championships on telly.

Premier Inn, Beverley - my home for the night for £102

Today's ride: 32 km (20 miles)
Total: 118 km (73 miles)

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