Hanmer Springs to Lake Tennyson via St James Cycle Triail.

February 14, 2025

A great ride interrupted by serious hike-a-bike.

This morning I wanted to get a jump on the big ride into the wilderness so I was up as 5:30 making coffee and eggs. Grum woke up slightly later and we grabbed a few photos while I pumped more air into my rear tire. I may need to add some sealant.

Ready to roll out. Amazing visit with Grum

Early morning views on the gravel ride up from Hanmer Springs.

I started out right at daylight riding through Hanmer and then to the turn marked for the ski area and St. James’s trail. I didn’t know that the climbing would start immediately and I basically grunted my way 15 km and 500 m up to the homestead only passed by a handful of cars and motorcycles.

The trailhead was really nice with a beautiful sign, toilet and nice start to the trail as singletrack. I got moving and the kilometres were clicking by quickly with signs every one. It wasn’t long before I reached the first hut. I looked inside to find 4 bunks and a nice place to cook.

Trail started on really nice singletrack.

Back on the trail I crossed over the stream and started up a good hill first rising and then pushing significant sections passed by a backcountry rig. I continued on and eventually got to the 30 odd kilometres where I could see the river in front of me. The trail continued up a bank way above the creek so I started pushing my bike up it. That was difficult hike-a-bike for a prolonged stretch where I crested and found a board across the trail. I walked around and discovered that’s the washed out bridge. Darn! I knew there was one but I didn’t check the map before climbing.

River crossing and lunch on the other side.

I then had to hike all the way back down and cross the river. I took all precautions doing this crossing solo. First I removed every bag off the bike to make it light. Then I made sure to have my PLB (personal location beacon) strapped to my vest securely (I wore it all day). Next I looked for the widest section and then checked the water temperature (nice temperature). I walked in to check the depth and it was knee high to mid thigh.

This is the height I pushed up. Horses down low.

I went back and grabbed the two bags that were waterproof and crossed. I talked to myself the whole time. Take little steps. Don’t rush. You got this. I made it and went back to do it another time with the other bags. Then I lifted the bike over my head to see how that felt. Good thing I workout as this was not easy. The frame bag came in handy because I unloaded some of the weight onto my helmet.

I told myself if I slip it’s okay. The bike can get wet and I won’t lose it. I walked slowly across and celebrated on the other side with a coffee and lunch.

I feel like I’m one of a small number of people riding the trail as it was grass in places, not worn through.

Then the work started. I made my way back to the trail, passed the first person of the day, and made the next hut. From there the riding was tough. I had to cross a few streams, beat my way through gorse bush and then do probably the most prolonged hike-a-bike I’ve done.

Back home we have a name for that section (Type 2 fun). I’d be lying if I said it was easy. I cursed a few times for good measure. I was high above the valley by this point and I could see a herd of horses grazing. I was hoping I’d be able to ride down but that wasn’t feasible so I just walked 90% of that descent.

After that I was riding again. First through grasslands and past the horses, then over a suspension bridge and back over to the other side of the river. It got hot again and by 1:30 I took a little break in the shade of bushes and wrote part of this post. Then I carried on crossing many spots with water running through.

Horse riders, had a chat with them while the horses grazed.

This section of the ride was nice as I wasn’t climbing and I was just riding through the valley. The views were spectacular! I kept going until 3 when I was beside a shallow river. I stopped and dunked my head to cool off and then continued.

I was looking at my progress and hoping I’d be able to finish St. James trail and get onto the Rainbow. By about 4 I passed a car park. Turns out that would be the ideal place to end this ride.

I started riding the single lane road that is really only passable by trucks with ample clearance. It reminded me of logging roads back home. Not really nice riding at all but at least at the start I was riding. By 4:30 I stopped for dinner. I made cous cous and completely over did the amount so I have leftovers in a ziplock.

Then for what can only be described as terrible. I could not ride the road and the only option was hike-a-bike for over 450 m of elevation gain in 3 km of hiking. As a hike it would be fine but pushing an 80 lb bike up that slope with that traction was awful. I wouldn’t even call this section part of the trail. Start the trail officially at the parking lot. This part wasn’t even type 2 fun. It was miserable.

I finally crested about 6 and rolled down the descent fairly cautiously until I popped out at the end of the trail (for me). The trail actually loops back toward Hanmer by turning right.

I made a left and rode another 5 km to Lake Tennyson to camp for the night. Tomorrow I’ll tackle the Rainbow.

I’ll think about that trail for a while. I have really mixed feelings about it. On one hand parts of the riding was very nice. On the other hand there were huge sections of hike-a-bike that were not pleasant. And that part really detracts from calling it a ride in places. I’m guessing I pushed at least 10% of the kilometres (6-8 km).

Highlights:

-epic scenery

-river crossing

-being in the backcountry in the valley was stunning

Distance: 75 and 1651 m elevation gain

Today's ride: 75 km (47 miles)
Total: 1,633 km (1,014 miles)

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Bruce RichardsHi Andrew. Have done the St James going the other way on an unladen mtb. Way better experience. At least four years ago and had the same with finding our way over grassy stretches with evidence of very few other riders. The river crossing means they still haven’t replaced that bridge. I have a few thoughts about logistics of your changed itinerary. OGR and Paparoa are going to tough on a laden bike with no suspension. I assume you are going over Arthur’s Pass from Paparoa to Methven. I have ridden the Otira Gorge both ways on a racing bike with zero extra weight onboard. The climb up has a prolonged section of 16% and is not nice with the amount of traffic. Has anyone suggested the TransAlpine train from Moana to either Arthur’s Pass or Springfield? Hope the rest of the Rainbow went well. Take plenty of sandfly repellantforthe West Coast, especially the start of OGR. Cheers
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2 weeks ago

Andrew RichardTo Bruce RichardsThat’s exactly what I thought when I finished and got to camp. The ideal plan is to get a lift down to that car park and ride the opposite direction to me. Or get picked up there would be fine as well.

I know the OGR and Paporoa are going to be tough with the loaded bike. I’m going to overnight on the OGR so only tackle maybe 40 km the first day. I think that should help.

I’ll check out that other option to get back. I can’t stand that busy roads.

Thanks!🙏
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2 weeks ago