Sevilla to Arcos de la Frontera

November 22, 2021

Our earliest start yet but leaving Sevilla wasn’t seamless. We still needed to stop and correct our route a few times but we made it to Coria del Rio to take the ferry across the Guadalquivir. The river wasn’t nearly as big as we expected but perhaps that’s because of all the canals and other irrigation works built over the centuries of agriculture. Or maybe Spain is just a lot dryer than BC.

Saying goodbye to our apartment in Seville. It's in a new building with electronic locks operated by Bluetooth. Open the app on your phone and put it close to the reader. Don't lose your phone or let it die while you're out!

After disembarking from the short ferry ride, we pedalled through the least attractive part of Spain we’ve encountered. Fields of clumps of mud/dirt, the village of La Hermandad with its unpaved streets lined by high-walled enclaves, the town of Los Palacios y Villafranca which didn’t seem to have anything approaching a palacio (admittedly, we only skirted it). The routd RWGPS had suggested from here was on an unappealing dirt road so we took minor highways as far as Las Cabezas de San Juan.

On the ferry. We were the only cyclists, along with 4 cars. Al soon removed his mask as we were the only people outside a car and the ferryman who collected the fares wasn't wearing one either.

This town seemed quite pleasant. We stopped here for some tapas since we didn’t expect to find any more food options until we got to our destination.

In the little tavern was a group of elderly gentlemen, each with his small glass of wine. They looked like they spent time here most days (of perhaps only most Mondays). In any case, we both thought of an Italian TV series we’ve watched called “Murders at Bar Lume” (with subtitles on MHZ Choice).

After Las Cabezas (how did that town get that name?), the scenery began to improve. Of course, the road began to tilt upward as well, though there were a few descents as well.

The countryside is getting more interesting...

We had booked a room in La Casa Grande since the Andersons had liked it so much. To get there, we rode up through the old town of Arcos. Imaging our surprise as we came around a corner on a steep cobbled street to find one of those red tourist trains, with every seat occupied by a person who’d had a few glasses of wine with a nice lunch. Our own cheering section! There was no way I could walk!

The red train passed us when we were pulled over to check our route and the last we saw of it, it was bouncing along the cobbles and swaying around corners as it proceeded rather quickly up the hill to the afternoon’s sight.

Arriving at La Casa Grande. It was nice to arrive again at a traditional hotel where you ring a bell to be let in and a real person takes your info, gives you a real key, and shows you to your room.

Another view. We are hoping for good weather tomorrow.

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Today's ride: 99 km (61 miles)
Total: 1,037 km (644 miles)

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