Potential robbery victims

January 21, 2021

Near Sedgefield to near Plettenberg Bay

We were back to an early start again this morning because we knew that if we pushed on to where we hoped to reach for the day, it would involve two stiff climbs and almost a thousand meters total climbing. So we were on the road at six thirty, at least half an hour later than we would have hoped and headed down the N2 in the company of what seemed like thousands of other vehicles. There were also lots of other cyclists all decked out in the latest cycling fashions and riding shiny clean bikes. Heaven alone knows why they choose to ride the N2. They were probably wondering who this scruffy lot were with dirty bikes and hiking clothes.

Looking back towards Pine Lake Marina from the N2.

The first of today's climbs was between Goukamma and the western side of the Knysna Lagoon. Then it was a great downhill before skirting the lagoon and entering the town. Knysna used to be a very pretty little holiday village popular with retirees but inevitably it has grown too large and busy. I have developed a mental block about the town and I always want to get in and out of it as quickly as possible. That wasn't going to happen today because Leigh needed to take a few photographs first and then we had to top up our liquids and buy some bananas for the road.

While Leigh wanted to photograph a church, my eye was drawn to this poster.

Extending the time spent getting out of Knysna was the matter of the big climb out on the N2 towards Plettenberg Bay. And this is when things almost went wrong.

Often on a climb, I might get a hundred meters or two ahead of Leigh and then stop and let her catch up where it might be convenient. And that is how this climb started. Halfway up one passes through a depressing township of ramshackle huts where the town's unemployed and under employed live. It's a dreadful reminder of the inequalities of South African society with the luxurious homes of wealthier people just a short way down the road. Soon after passing a minibus taxi rank alongside the road, where we seemed to catch the attention of two dodgy looking characters, I stopped and we started cycling together for the rest of the climb. Nearing the top, a few kilometers from the taxi rank, we noticed a minibus taxi parked on the opposite side of the road. The driver jumped out and crossed the road where he was joined by another guy who had been hidden in the bushes on the side of the road. They then ran across the road and jumped into the minibus taxi. Soon after passing them, we noticed a police patrol car behind us. They pulled up next to us and asked us to stop so that they could speak to us. To cut a long story short, they had got a tip-off that the two taxi guys had wanted to rob us and that they would ride behind us to see that we got away safely. So for the next few kilometers we had a police escort. I am not sure if our would be assailants gave up on their plan when they saw Leigh and I cycling together or if the police patrol vehicle appeared just before they might have done their dirty work. This is only the second time we have been in a situation like this, the previous time being in Valparaiso on the Chilean coast.

Looking back over Knysna with the township in the foreground. The taxi rank was just after from where I took this picture.

We stopped after the top of the last climb near the Garden of Eden section of the Garden Route National Park. It gave us a chance to come back down to earth, discuss what had happened and enjoy a few egg-mayonnaise sandwiches.

After that it was a mostly easy ride to Plettenberg Bay where, after securing accommodation a few kilometers further down the N2, we stocked up on groceries and headed for our digs for the night. We have got a nice little cottage between Plettenberg Bay and the Keurbooms River conveniently located just off the N2. Another early start beckons for tomorrow because there is another big climb from the Keurbooms River up to the Blaaukrantz bridge.

Today's ride: 70 km (43 miles)
Total: 2,086 km (1,295 miles)

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Scott AndersonThank you for this post and your honest reporting of your whole adventure. This is why we’ve been hesitant to bike down there: we’ve read of a few bikejacking incidents, with worse outcomes. Living in a country armed to the truth and so full of crazies as we are, it feels silly to fear biking anywhere else; but still. Glad to hear someone was watching out for you.
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3 years ago

Jean-Marc StrydomKnysna's economy is based on tourism and COVID-19 has killed that industry. So there is an extremely high unemployment rate in the area. The streets of the town had clusters of men hanging around hoping for piece-work. I can't imagine how desperate people could get when all they want to do is feed their families. However, the guys involved seemed to have been the taxi driver and his assistant so they would have had some form of income although most likely greatly reduced. I'm not excusing what might have happened nor trying to downplay the risks of obviously wealthier people cycling through a poor area. Our route wasn't the one we would have preferred to use. We had been trying to avoid heavily populated areas which is to where people have flocked to try and make a living (only to see that source of employment disappear). There is no easy answer.
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3 years ago

Mike AylingI read somewhere that a very high percentage of crimes are prevented or subsequently solved not by great detective work but as a result of information from their informants or "grasses" as referred to in the British television shows!
Anyway good result by the SAP!
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3 years ago