To Vaison-la-Romaine - Three, Two, One....Tour - CycleBlaze

May 8, 2023

To Vaison-la-Romaine

This past week cycling in the Luberon and Vaucluse has been some of the best touring I’ve experienced – delightful small roads, iconic towns and small villages, French landscapes awash in poppies and physical challenges, and all enhanced by sharing it with Suzanne and Janos. But now it was time to say au revoir, a French farewell that is much more than a simple good-bye for it holds a hope or promise to meet again. Indeed, we have already discussed plans for a get-together in Germany sometime next year.  

And a grand time was had by all!
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My destination today was Vaison-la-Romaine, a town in the Vaucluse known for its “rich Roman ruins and mediaeval town.” I followed a nice bike path for the first few miles out of Carpentras, then smaller roads through the towns of Aubignan and Beaumes-de-Venise before reaching the highlight of the day – the Dentelles de Montmirail, a limestone massif that marks the western end of the Monts de Vaucluse. The climb through the Dentelles began gradually from Beaumes-de-Venise and I was continually astonished as the high peaks and needles Dentelles slowly revealed themselves. The vistas across the verdant fields and vineyards were supercharged with an explosion of yellow genêt broom – it was brilliant.

Small roads, vineyards and distant mountains
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Passing through Beaumes-de-Venise
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A first look at the Dentelles de Montmirail
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The Dentelles de Montmirail, with the highest peak, Crête de Saint-Amand, peeking through on the right
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The high peaks of the Dentelles de Montmirail, so named for their lace-like appearance
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I reached a modest col in the small village of Suzette and my first look at the back side of Mont Ventoux. A short downhill and a mile-long climb rewarded me with an expansive views of Suzette and the Dentelles in west and Mont Ventoux in the east. I swept down into the village of Malaucène, where a found a nice café to eat my sandwich and indulge in ice cream for dessert. Malaucène is also a launching point for a Ventoux ascent, and the streets and cafés were filled with cyclists. I had now passed through each of the three villages with routes to Mont Ventoux: Sauilt, Bédoin, and Malaucène. A palpable energy and enthusiasm for cycling were present in each village, though I found Sault to be a bit less lively than either Bédoin or Malaucène.

A modest col, but the name alone deserved a selfie to commemorate Suzette and Carpentras on the same day
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Keith AdamsNicely done!
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1 year ago
Janice BranhamQueen of the Mountains!
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1 year ago
Susan CarpenterTo Keith AdamsThanks Keith
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1 year ago
Susan CarpenterTo Janice BranhamThanks Janice!
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1 year ago
A brief descent through the towering Dentelles
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A look westward to Suzette and the Dentelles de Montmirail
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And to the east, Malaucène laying at the base of Mont Ventoux
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In Malaucène
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In Malaucène
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The remaining miles to Vaison-la-Romaine passed quickly and I made my way up through the narrow cobbled streets of the medieval city to my hotel – only it wasn’t my hotel, just the ending way point on route. Oops. It took a few minutes to retrieve the name and location of my hotel, which was located a short ways outside of town, in the direction from whence I’d come. The place seemed a bit like a retreat, with several buildings named for composers. I’d been hoping for an earlier check-in than the posted time of 5 pm, but everything was shut tight and I settled in for the 45 minute wait.

 The hotel restaurant was closed, so I made the half-mile walk into town for dinner – not to the medieval village on the hill but to the newer town just across the Ouvèze River.  I found a somewhat lively café on the square for fish and chips and then enjoyed a leisurely walk back to hotel as the in the warm light of the setting sun cast a glow on Mont Ventoux. 

On the way to Vaison-la-Romaine
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Château de Crestet, I believe
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Keith AdamsA bit of a fixer-upper before it's move-in ready, by the looks of it.
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1 year ago
Crossing the Ouvèze River on the way to Vaison-la-Romaine
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A look up to the medieval village of Vaison-la-Romaine
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The "newer" village of Vaison-la-Romaine lies across the Ouvèze River from the medieval village
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Keith KleinA beautiful town. The bridge is Roman. 2000 years old and still open to daily traffic. I wonder how many modern bridges will still be in service in 4023?
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1 year ago
Vaison-la-Romaine
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Mont Ventoux in the evening light
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Today's ride: 27 miles (43 km)
Total: 1,030 miles (1,658 km)

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Janice BranhamThis was the highlight ride of our first tour in France last fall. I'm enjoying your springtime pictures of this region.
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1 year ago
Rachael AndersonAnother beautiful day!
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1 year ago
Susan CarpenterTo Janice BranhamThanks Janice - it’s just wonderful cycling country
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1 year ago
Susan CarpenterTo Rachael AndersonSpectacular cycling area and great weather - a can’t miss combo!
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1 year ago