To be in Andalusia during Semana Santa (Holy Week) is to witness an outpouring of faith, pomp, and community celebration. I was raised in the Catholic Church and most of my primary education was in parochial schools. Though I left the Church years ago, I am fairly well versed as to the events and significance of the Catholic version of Holy Week: the entrance of Jesus into Jerusalem on Palm Sunday, when he was lauded with palm branches; his arrest and conviction on Holy Thursday; his crucifixion on Good Friday; and his resurrection on Easter Sunday. These events are enshrined in the fourteen stations of the cross, something all good Catholic school girls knew by heart.
In my youth, the events of Holy Week were commemorated/celebrated in school, in church, and in our family. There were palms and incense at mass on Palm Sunday, but other than not eating meet on Good Friday, most of the celebration centered on Easter Sunday. It seems that most every year my mother bought us a new dress to wear for Easter Sunday mass, after which we would return home for an Easter egg hunt and the Easter ham shared with family friends or relatives. Easter Sunday was a mix of the sacred and the secular, but rarely a spectacle.
Holy Week is altogether different in Andalusia. It is a spectacle, a weeklong celebration filled with daily and nightly processions wherein large paso (floats) depicting specific events of Holy Week are carried solemnly through the streets, accompanied by a brass band and hundreds of penitents, or Nazarenos, clothed in distinctive hooded habits that represent their brotherhood, the religious and social group associated with a local Catholic Church.
Today I was taking the train to Seville, eager to witness a few of the sixty-odd processions that would fill the streets of the city on their way to the Cathedral of Seville. Before I left Utrera, however, the hotel informed me that the first procession of Semana Santa in Utrera would start at 11 am. How could I pass up an opportunity to attend a procession by one of local brotherhoods in Utrera?
I checked out and, leaving Vivien George and my bags at the hotel, and walked through the eerily empty streets of Utrera. The bells of Iglesia de Santa María de La Mesa tolled loudly, but the church doors were closed. As I turned the corner, I saw a large procession coming towards me – it was not a Holy Week procession, there was no float nor hooded Penitents. Rather, it was a procession of congregants bearing olive branches and palms, slowly walking toward the church. I stood aside as the group passed, and memories of my past Palm Sundays sent shivers up my arms. I realized then that this week might pack some emotional punch as well as the usual thrills of a cycling tourist.
Iglesia de Santa María de La Mesa and the empty streets of Utrera
The Semana Santa procession featured the Hermandad de la Trinidad de Utrera and was to begin at their local parish house. I made my way towards the nearby Parque Cristo De Los Afligidos and joined the crowds of people lining the street, waiting for the procession to begin. As I looked around, it became increasingly clear that this was a family and community event. There were scores of masked people clad in blue cloaks and capirotes, the conical hoods that give all Americans a sense of unease when first viewed. Most of the fellow onlookers appeared to know someone in the procession, and there was much camaraderie, joking and picture taking between onlookers and individual participants. The large number of youngsters participating in the procession was a surprise, and many in the crowd were supportive parents.
Soon, a cheer went up from the well-dressed crowd and the paso emerged from the chapel. I should say partially emerged – some adjustments were made to three rays atop the head of Jesus but soon all was set with the various adornments and the paso slowly turned the corner and proceeded down the street. I was a bit flabbergasted with how big it was - long, wide, and towering over onlookers. A brass band followed, and soon thereafter most of the onlookers joined in, joyously following their friends and acquaintances in celebration of Palm Sunday.
Nazarenos of the Hermandad de la Trinidad de Utrera
While waiting for final adjustments to the float, several young onlookers (and one old cyclist) approached this brother and sister for holy cards, which were gladly handed out
The paso depicts Jesus entering Jerusalem on Palm Sunday, The position of the sun was not ideal, but you do get an idea of the size and scope of the paso, and what it depicts
The Cercanías commuter train to Seville was very popular this Sunday afternoon. I arrived at the station in plenty of time, paid my €4.05 and a loaded Vivien George passed easily through the handicap entry gate to the platform where the train was due to depart in 30 minutes time. The platform was occupied with a train departing for Lora del Río, so I sat on the platform and waited with a few other folks. Soon people began to arrive and boarded the train – a few with bikes, but no touring cyclists. I then noticed that destination sign on the side of the train cars had changed from “Lora del Río” to “Seville SJ” – it seemed the train on the platform was the 12:34 train to the Santa Justo station in Seville. I rolled Vivien George onto the only car that had a roll-on entry, and found that the space for bikes was occupied by the three bikes that had entered earlier. But no fear, the cyclists helped me squeeze VG and myself into a handicap space – I had a seat and Vivien George wasn’t in danger of rolling out when the train door opened.
The train began to fill, and most of the riders appeared to be families on their way to Seville for Semana Santa. There were several families, many with baby strollers, and everyone including the youngsters were dressed in their holy day finery. The train was nearly full when we left the station, yet people continued to pile in at each subsequent stop - baby carriages were maneuvered and people repositioned themselves to make room for all new passengers. Everyone seemed quite happy and accommodating – Vivien George even got in the spirit of things by serving as a resting spot for someone’s shopping bag.
Suddenly we arrived at the San Bernando station, which was the closest to my hotel. I hurriedly managed to detrain, along with most of the other passengers in my car. Unfortunately for me, the station was underground and there was no apparent lift – only a very long set of stairs and an escalator. I went over to the escalator, intending to make several trips after everyone else had ascended. To my surprise, the family who stood next to me in the train car offered to help – I had sort of befriended them by giving Grandmother a place to rest her shopping bag, and asking questions about the San Bernando stop. Without asking, Father and Mother picked up my panniers and helped keep Vivien George from sliding back down the escalator as we rode up to street level. It didn’t matter if they were all dressed up, a helping hand and act of kindness was called for.
The ride to my hotel was easy, but a bit crazed. Seville has many bike lanes, but they are often not well marked and/or difficult to distinguish from pedestrian lanes. And then there was a trolley. And also, many of the streets near the Cathedral were partially filled with seating areas for the upcoming processions. And finally, the streets were filled, and I mean filled, with people. For a while I followed a City Bike Tour group, then weaved and dodged between pedestrians and trolley tracks, and finally gave up and walked the remaining half-mile to my hotel. Along the way, I became very enamored of Seville, with its low skyline, open plazas, and historical buildings. I was looking forward to my three nights here.
Scott AndersonGlad to see the Cercanías worked out for you, even when it’s so crowded. If we ever make it back to Seville I’m sure we’d consider it too. Reply to this comment 1 year ago
Susan CarpenterTo Scott AndersonYes, it all was very smooth - and would be even better if there were a lift in the Seville stations! Maybe Santo Justa has one Reply to this comment 1 year ago
Knowing that Seville is a popular destination for Semana Santa, I booked well in advance and chose a place near the Cathedral, hoping I would be able to view some of the processions from my hotel room. And boy, did I ever. The first paso went by about 4 pm and three more followed – one shortly after the first and two more at about 10 pm that night. I’ve come to realize that these represented two processions, not four. Most often, each Brotherhood carries two pasos, the first depicting Jesus and second the Virgin Mary. So in fact, I witnessed processions by two Brotherhoods, one whose cloaks were white, the other black.
Not only was I able to view the processions from my hotel room balcony, it turned out that the intersection where the processions passed was a sort of rest stop. The pasos are carried through the streets on the shoulders of up to fifty costaleros, strong men who also wear distinctive head dress, called a costal, that aids in supporting the massive weight of the pasos. During the rest stop, a troop of replacement costaleros are brought in as relief, a replacement team. Those relieved of their duty emerge from under the paso, sweaty and red faced, often hoisting their costals to the cheers of the crowds.
My senses were overwhelmed with the sights, sounds and smells of Semana Santa. They also guided me as to the progress of the procession. The music came first, the drum beat and then the brass, sounding a solemn processional march. I’d look out the window and see the rows of Nazarenos, quietly walking, or sometimes standing patiently. The smell of incense was the cue that the paso was nearing the intersection – usually stopping in, or just before the intersection. Then the music would begin anew, the paso would be hoisted to its full height, and slowly proceed forward. As wondrous as the day was, it was even more magical at night, with candles glowing from the paso and the hands of the Nazarenos.
The second procession passes through at night. It is hard to see the Nazarenos, who are dressed in black, but the paso is well lit by candles. Note that it is about 1.5 stories tall
This day left me both awestruck and moved, both by what I saw and by the emotions evoked in me. Holy Week is just beginning. It will be quite interesting to see what unfolds in the coming week, and how my thoughts and emotions may/may not change over the next six days.
Today's ride: 3 miles (5 km) Total: 507 miles (816 km)
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Steve Miller/GrampiesYour background gives you a deeper understanding of the events of Semana Santa than we have. Love reading your take on it and waiting with partially held breath to see how the rest of the week went for you. Reply to this comment 1 year ago
Patrick O'HaraExcellent journal. Funnily enough, I share your Catholic upbringing. However, this little sheep has strayed somewhat....LOL. Reply to this comment 1 year ago
Tricia GrahamWhat a wonderful description of Semana Santa and your reaction to it It makes me really keen to visit Andalucia in Holy Week Reply to this comment 1 year ago
Susan CarpenterTo Patrick O'HaraThanks Patrick - I too am a strayed sheep, something I inadvertently failed to mention (now fixed). But I am always amazed when those once strongly held teachings and rituals re-emerge at unexpected times Reply to this comment 1 year ago
Susan CarpenterTo Steve Miller/GrampiesThanks Steve - I believe you and Dodie will make an appearance in the next post! It was great meeting you both and stay well on your trip back up to Porto Reply to this comment 1 year ago
Rachael AndersonWow! How great! We witnessed our first Easter week celebration in Taranto tonight for Good Friday. It was over a quarter of a mile long but we were in the middle of a huge crowd of people. After awhile it was very claustrophobic and we were glad to get out of it but it was a wonderful sight! You we’re lucky to have a view from above! Reply to this comment 1 year ago
Suzanne Gibson Absolutely fascinating, and a terrific write-up! So much tradition and art as well can be better understood if you are familiar with the Catholic teachings on the life of Christ and the many saints. Reply to this comment 1 year ago
