To Saint-Rémy-de-Provence

May 1, 2023

It was such a joy to be cycling once again with Suzanne and Janos. We’d planned a fairly short day, thinking we might ride up to Les Baux-de-Provence on our way to Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, our final destination. The weather was perfect, except for a strengthening Mistral from the northwest that was predicted to be with us a for a few days. Though there was a lot of catching up to do, we tried not to linger over breakfast and we managed to assemble ourselves for a group photo by little past ten. And then we were on our way!

Our route out of Arles took us past the Abbaye de Montmajour before turning east on a small road that we would follow to the town of Paradou. Along the way we stopped Aqueduc Romain de Barbegal, which at one time fed complex of 16 water mills and supplied water to Arles. We played around a bit at the aqueduct, scrambling about on the rocks and taking lots of photos. It was an easy ride into Paradou where found a nice spot for a leisurely picnic lunch at the town hall plaza.

Suzanne setting up for another of her outstanding bicycle photos

A family traveling with a loaded donkey ambled by while we were at the Roman Aqueducts

Leaving Paradou, we turned north into the wind and began the four mile climb that took us up past Les Baux-de-Provence, a small commune located on a rocky outcrop in the Alpilles. The site was an important defensive stronghold during the Middle Ages, and the medieval fortress draws a number of tourists to the village. And today the tourists were out in force. Parked cars lined both sides of the road for about a mile leading up to and beyond the turnoff for the village, a sure sign that the village and fortress would be swarmed with people. Too many, we decided, and we carried on. There was another mile to the crest, followed by a downhill run into Saint-Rémy – the steep curvy top of the descent was a bit squirrelly in the wind, but the road soon straightened and we cruised into town.

We arrived at our hotel in Saint-Rémy with a little more than an hour to spare before check-in, so we headed into town for ice cream. The town was jumping, with a market, small amusement rides, and a gathering of motorcycle enthusiasts. Janos and I each picked out our favorite ride among the modern and vintage bikes – he chose a large black Harley with lots of chrome and modern accessories while I was drawn to a low-slung version with a merlot-colored gas tank. Of course, I would never give up Vivien George. We enjoyed our ice cream on the square then Suzanne and I closed out our dawdle time doing some reconnaissance on the restaurant we'd booked for dinner.

The rocky outcrop of Les Baux-de-Provence

A little closer view of Les Baux-de-Provence - if you look closely you might be able to see people at the top

Continuing up the road after deciding not to visit Les Baux-de-Provence

The medieval fortress known as Château des Baux-de-Provence,

The rock formation in the Alpilles limestone looks almost like a conch shell

We were booked into a wonderful and homey inn on the edge of town where a small chalkboard welcomed me to my room. It was not a far walk into town for dinner at a great seafood restaurant – Gus. Suzanne and I shared a dozen oysters and we all enjoyed a great fish main - John Dory for me and Suzanne and grilled sea bass for Janos. We chose our desserts from a display of patisseries and waddled back to the inn.

A great ride, a meal, a great day with friends in Provence – I can’t wait for tomorrow.

A nice spot in the sun at Le Mas des Tourterelles, our home for the night

Suzanne and Janos once again scored a ground floor hotel room

All points bulletin for three CycleBlazers armed with cameras

Le Soleil des Alpilles - the sun was indeed shining on us today

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Today's ride: 19 miles (31 km)
Total: 840 miles (1,352 km)

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Steve Miller/GrampiesIf you are fans of Van Gogh, as we are, try to find time to visit the St. Paul Asylum in St. Remy. It has a wonderful display of reproductions of his paintings from his year spent here. We enjoyed it tremendously.
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1 year ago

Susan CarpenterTo Steve Miller/GrampiesThanks for the tip Steve. Unfortunately we’ve already left town but it’s on my radar for the next time thru
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1 year ago