To Saint-Martin-d'Ardèche

May 11, 2023

Sunshine greeted me this morning as I opened the shutters, bringing a smile to my face and the hope that I might extend my remarkable run of rain-free days. But the day was long and there were many miles to cover before reaching Saint-Martin-d’Ardeche. I succeeded in getting an early start and was underway by a quarter past nine. The day was mostly about getting from point A to point B, but I felt refreshed and ready to enjoy one of the last few cycling days left before I head back to Paris.

The first miles retraced yesterday’s route from Mirabel-aux-Baronnies and continued following the Eygues River downstream to Sainte-Cécile-les-Vignes. It was easy cycling through the vineyards of the Côtes du Rhone, with the peaks of the Vaucluse receding behind me. I stopped for a snack somewhere before Sainte-Cécile-les-Vignes, and headed for the Rhone River.

Just before reaching the Rhone I passed through the village of Mondragon, where I was greeted by a large mural depicting the Legend of the Drac. According to legend, the Drac was a large winged reptile that lived in the deep waters of the Rhone, luring the unsuspected into the river where he would eat and/or drown them. I was a bit charmed by Mondragon my spin around town was accompanied by klezmer-like music that rang out from an identified source.

Vivien George is rarin' to go in the bright morning sun

A look back at the peaks of the Vaucluse

The large mural in Mondragon by artist Valerie Micheaux depicts the legend of the Drac of Mondragon

I picked up the Via Rhona just past Mondragon, first crossing the Canal de Donzère-Mondragon and then the Rhone at Pont-Saint-Esprit. Though the sky remained a bright blue, the clouds were darkening. I didn’t dawdle as I cycled along the small roads leading to Saint-Martin-d’Ardeche, but it began to sprinkle just past Pont-Saint-Esprit – not a downpour but enough to secure the camera and phone. It had eased up by the time I met Patrice and Christine, two cyclists from Aix-en-Provence who were out for an eight day tour. I was nearly completely dry on arrival in Saint-Martin, about thirty minutes before check-in. I found a dry spot to enjoy my lunch sandwich and reflected on how the miles and time had flown by – no doubt aided by the flat terrain but also, I suspect, in anticipation of my upcoming dinner date with fellow CycleBlazers Ann and Steve Maher-Weary.

There was a group of herons poking about along the Via Rhona...

....and they all took flight as I approached

Darkening clouds and blue skies along the Via Rhona

Crossing the Rhine River at Pont-Saint-Esprit

Patrice and Christine, cyclists from Aix-en-Provence who were also happy the rain had eased up

Waiting for the green light to Saint-Martin-d'Ardèche

I first met Ann and Steve last autumn in Bouziès during an incredible week of cycling in the Lot with Team Anderson. We five CBers enjoyed a memorable day off the bike that included a leisurely walk along the famed towpath to Saint-Cirq-Lapopie – if so inclined, you can read the various accounts of that splendid day here, here, and here. Steve and Ann are now touring through southern France on their way to Norway and they arranged their route to meet in Saint-Martin and cycle the Gorges de l’Ardèche tomorrow. We met for dinner and fell easily into animated conversation about life and all things cycling. Although the meal and setting were excellent, it did not compare with getting together with CycleBlaze friends.

A wonderful reunion dinner with Ann and Steve

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Today's ride: 41 miles (66 km)
Total: 1,086 miles (1,748 km)

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