Today I was headed for Olvera, located at the eastern terminus of the Via Verde de la Sierra, a never-completed rail line with 30 tunnels. Now used solely by cyclists, hikers and equestrians, the route was designated "The Best Greenway in Europe" in 2005, and last year got high marks from CycleBlazers Betsy Evans and the Classens. I was keen to cycle the Via Verde de la Sierra, but I needed to first get to Olvera. And though the route options from Antequera to Olvera were many, I opted for the quickest, most direct route. It required many miles on a main road, A384, but the alternatives entailed more mileage and more elevation.
I set off from Antequera on MA4403, a smallish road with little traffic. There was not much of interest in the surrounding landscape, but I did spot my first poppy of the season as well as two friendly cyclists. Shortly past Bobadilla-Estación, I turned east onto A384, a road I followed it all the way to Olvera. There was more traffic than I like, but the shoulder was fairly wide and I was able to maintain a pretty good pace, soon reaching Campillos where I stopped for a short break and a snack.
A final look at Plaza del Coso Viejode in Antequera
Our Lady of Sorrows Parish in Bobadilla-Estación. The gentleman in the photo slowly circled the plaza and then took a seat on a shaded bench under the tree. Walking and bench-sitting are common activities in the small towns of Andalusia
The landscape became a bit more interesting beyond Campillos, but A384 had no pullouts and a pretty deep ditch so I didn’t feel safe stopping for many pictures. I just continued to roll along, feeling almost as if I was out for a ride on my road bike. Eventually however, the road began to climb. It was fairly gentle, averaging just over 4%, but shoulder narrowed and became cluttered with debris. The biggest concern was that I began to feel shaky and a bit unsteady – not good when large trucks are speeding by on your left. I was approaching a construction site where the road narrowed and, though there was no ideal stopping place, I pulled off the road and found a spot in the shade under an olive tree. I took a fifteen minute rest and replenished myself with water and peanuts before starting back up again. The rest and food did the trick and shortly I crested the hill and had a nice downhill run to Olvera.
The A384 had a wide shoulder but speedy traffic and a scary ditch
My lodging in Olvera was located near the top of the town (naturally), so there was climbing, a little walking, and then a very short but scary downhill to No31, a B&B given rave reviews by the Classens last year. The place is owned/run by two wonderful Canadians, Peter and Terri, who offered all sorts of local advice, including news that the red tuna might be making their run down the coast to the Mediterranean Sea - if so, I shouldn’t pass up the chance to try some. After cleaning up and resting a bit, I walked up the hill to the Plaza de la Iglesia for a closer look at the church and tower that I’d viewed from the No31 rooftop terrace. Both the Arcipestral Church of Our Lady of the Incarnation and the Olvera Castle were closed, but I had splendid views of Olvera glowing in the late afternoon sun.
Deciding I needed a real restaurant meal, I headed down to La Tarara Neotaberna – recommended by both Michelin as well as Peter and Terri, it serves traditional Spanish food with a contemporary spin. It didn’t open until 8:30, so I spent a delightful hour on a bench in Plaza Andalusia people watching –children testing their balance and nerve at the activity park set up in the square, and the elderly men and women getting their exercise walking laps around the plaza. The restaurant opened about 8:40 and though I was the first customer, it soon filled the sounds of rapid Spanish and laughter among friends. I ordered grilled red tuna ribs – and they did not disappoint.
