To Martos

April 12, 2023

Today I continued my journey across the rolling hills of the eastern Río Guadalquivir basin, between the Sierra Morena and the Sierras Subbeticas. It was a leisurely twenty miles to Martos on lightly traveled provincial roads that were ideal for frequent photo/rest stops.

After descending from Porcuna, I passed through Higuera de Calatrava before making my way toward Martos on what was essentially a thirteen mile gentle climb through olive groves. There was little traffic and scant evidence of human habitation - a tranquil ride filled with the sound of cuckoo’s and distant chain saws, the latter engaged in the springtime ritual of trimming the olive trees. Though there seemed to be little variation in the landscape, I found much to appreciate in the many small changes in topography and a route that brought me ever closer to the peaks of the Subbeticas. Similar to yesterday, the experience of cycling was curative – I felt strong and happy.

Looking ahead - it promises to be another day of euphoria amidst the olive trees

It pays to be different if you can get yourself pictured on CycleBlaze

Dropping down to the outskirts of Lendínez

Small arroyos wove through landscape at several points along the route

A panorama cannot capture the essence of the landscape, but it can try

Nearing Martos, you can just make out the white buildings located at the base of the hill on the right

The city of Martos sits at the base of Peña de Martos, the Rock of Martos

A closer look at the ruins atop Peña de Martos

I arrived at the Hotel Hidalgo about 1 pm and was checked-in by a kindly elderly gentleman, who soon became my good buddy. He first helped me out when I couldn’t get the room key to work, and followed me upstairs to demonstrate. Before unlocking the room, however, he took me to the end of the hallway for the view of the neighboring bull ring, the Plaza de Toros. It was somewhat impressive, so after cleaning up I scurried down the hall for a photo. Oops, the door to my room closed with the key (and my shoes) safely in the room. Another trip downstairs to ask the gentleman for help – we were becoming fast friends at this point.

It was on this third trip to the front desk that I noticed the walls of the lobby, bar and side rooms were all decorated with bullfighting memorabilia – autographed pictures, trophies, bulls heads and even a matador in full regalia. When I started taking some photos, the gentleman insisted that he take pictures of me, enthusiastically leading me around and positioning me to capture the images he though best. It was evident that bull fighting and all it's related activities were a huge part of the both his and the hotel’s identity. Since 2020 however, there has been no bull fighting in Martos - a victim of Covid, and perhaps the growing unpopularity of bull-fighting in Spain.

I had a proper mid-afternoon meal in Martos, seeking out a restaurant with a good online reviews. It was a bit of a walk from the hotel, but it gave me a chance to see a bit of the town, which was quite different from other places I’d stayed. Martos seemed less a place for tourists and more like a regular city. In fact, it has a good economic base in both the olive oil industry and in plastics.

I passed on visiting some of the interesting churches and monuments in Martos, and instead kept with my thus far successful strategy of saving energy for cycling rather than sightseeing.

I really don't know what to say about these next few pictures - to me they say more about the man who took the photos than anything captured by the camera itself. I regret that I failed to learn his name, or take his picture

Severely pruned plane trees in Martos - presumably an effort for disease control

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Today's ride: 20 miles (32 km)
Total: 709 miles (1,141 km)

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Kathleen JonesThe photos taken by your new friend were just wonderful. Especially the one between the two mounted heads.

I went to a bullfight out of curiosity a hundred years ago - or maybe it was 102 - and it was not great. I did not realize they actually killed every bull. The pageantry and drama was interesting, but the rest was not. So I was cured of that.
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