April 16, 2023 to April 17, 2023
To/In Granada
Closing the Loop
Today was the final day of cycling on what has been a fantastic tour of Andalusia, one with many challenges but countless rewards. The final challenge was the pair of climbs in first eight miles of today’s route - then it was all downhill to Granada.
As I feared, yesterday’s enthusiasm in exploring the Montefrio Castle resulted in a sluggish start to the day. The first five miles were a bit of a struggle until midway up the second climb when I turned off onto GR-3407 and met a familiar sign – I was back on the Washington Irving Route! The landscape was decidedly different, with olive groves intermingling with large fields of springtime green. The next three miles took me higher into the Sierra de Parapanda and then it was a fast descent into Illora. I’d been looking forward to having a coffee and treat in Illora, but I spotted only a few places open as I wound down through the city.
I continued the descent beyond Illora on the busier A-336 until he route finally flattened out in Obéilar, where I got back on the provincial roads. It wasn’t until I was passing through Escózna that I spied a small bar/café with patrons sitting under open umbrellas. Vivien George joined a trio of bicycles leaning against the rail while I sat outside enjoying my Fanta, smiling and nodding at the small group of men engaging me in rapid-fire Spanish, none of which I understood.
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The remaining miles to Granada were flat, but not without interest. The provincial GR-3401 was a nice cycling road that took me through Valderrubio and miles of poplar stands on the way to Fuente Vaqueros, where I was to pick up a gravel track along the Genil River that would take me into the teeth of Granada. I’d considered various routes into Granada, finally deciding on this route as it would directly connect me with the bike path that I took out of the city a month ago.
I had a bit of trouble finding my way onto the river route, finally giving up and pushing Vivien George up a short embankment onto the river road. A similar road runs along the opposite bank of the Genil River, and I kept looking across the river to see if the surface might be a bit better. At the first opportunity, I crossed over to have look and opted for the opposite bank -the grass is always greener, as the say. Actually, the surface was similar on both sides, packed dirt mixed with some sand and gravel, but I concluded it might be a bit smoother on the left bank.
Progress was steady, and I was able to maintain a fairly good pace given the gravel surface. But it was dusty – I was paying a price for the absence of rain over the past month that had been such a delight for my daily sojourns. I soon spotted a major dust cloud ahead, which turned out to be a large herd of sheep and goats, accompanied by their shepherd and two herding dogs. The herd meandered in the river and from bank to bank, in search of nibbles, drinks, or the best footing as they made their way slowly upriver. It was great entertainment, and I lingered for quite a while, following their progress and wishing I might dip my toes in the river’s water.
With just over two miles to go, I crossed the outbound route I’d taken a month ago at the start of my Andalusian tour. Though it was only a couple of miles to the hotel, I was edging into bonking mode and searching vainly for a park bench to take a short rest before tackling the city streets. I finally resorted to a shady spot on the grass where I refreshed myself with nuts and figs and then easily completed the final two miles, bringing Act II to a close.
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The next 42 hours were largely confined to my hotel room, a very nice unit complete with a large terrace for Vivien George. There was a dinner at the local Italian restaurant I’d frequented last month, as well as afternoon beverages and lunch on the hotel terrace overlooking the Alhambra. But other than a trip to Hotel Palacio Saint Ines to retrieve my bike case, I spent my time resting, journaling and packing up Vivien George for the flight back to Paris.
My tour of Andalusia was so much more than I expected - a wonderful month of fantastic cycling, stunning scenery, and religious pageantry. I do regret not feeling well enough during the last week to fully appreciate all that those white villages have to offer, and I can already feel the pull of a return visit.
Today's ride: 35 miles (56 km)
Total: 814 miles (1,310 km)
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