To Arles

April 30, 2023

Day one of Act III began with an au revoir to Christiane and ended with Hallo to Suzanne and Janos. In between were 11 hours on French regional trains, known as TERs.

Christiane got up early to give me a Paris send off and I was on my way by 8:15 to the Paris-Bercy train station for my 9:20 train to Lyon. It was about a 40 minute ride through Paris and I wanted to arrive a bit early in order to secure a good spot for Vivien George. Traffic was light this Sunday morning and I entered the station a little before nine, just as they announced boarding.

On more than one occasion over the past month I’ve commented on my good fortune in traveling to Arles today rather than tomorrow, May 1, International Workers Day. There are a number of demonstrations and strikes planned for tomorrow, many of which will disrupt travel to an around France. I’d been so focused on the strikes that I forgot that for the majority of people, May 1 is a national holiday, and also falls in the middle of spring vacation for Paris schools. As a consequence, it seemed that everyone was in a hurry to get out of Paris for the weekend/week – and many were headed south, with bikes.

There were a number of bike cars on the very long train, and each one I passed was crowded with cyclists looking to cram a half dozen bikes in a space meant for three or four. I finally entered what appeared to be the last bike car on the train, and still the bike space was full – four bikes belonging to a mother and her three young sons who were off for a week-long tour in Burgundy. I positioned Vivien George as best I could, her front half leaning against their bikes and her rear perched precariously near the steps to exit door. I stood by as one after another after another passenger boarded, including another cyclist who placed her bike next to VG, completely blocking the exit. The conductor came by to say the exit must be clear, but after a lengthy and rapid conversation he relented, as long as she stood by her bike, ready to move should an emergency arise.

The family of cyclists departed about two hours into the five-plus hour ride to Lyon, freeing up all of the designated bike space. I strapped Vivien George in and found a nice seat in the car, one of the new upgraded TER cars with electric outlets. A group of Australians boarded in Dijon and we had a nice conversation until they left in Macon, and from there it was a short hop to Lyon, the final stop on this train.

Making sure I know the way to Gare de Bercy

We arrived at station too late for Vivien George to claim a spot in the designated bike area

I had almost three hours in Lyon before my train to Arles departed so I went outside to get some fresh air and find a nearby café for a leisurely lunch. However, the train station and surrounding area was undergoing massive renovation and dining options were limited to a kabob stand and an overcrowded café where everyone seemed to have menus, but no food. I headed back inside, grabbed lunch items at a Paul sandwich shop and waited for the train to Arles.

The Lyon train station has elevators for each platform, greatly easing some of the stress of traveling by train with a bike. When the track for the Arles train was announced, I took the elevator up to the platform and waited for the train to arrive, hoping that I’d placed myself along the platform so as not to have too much of a sprint to the bike car(s). I spotted a large bike logo on the second car, and headed down the platform. By the time the train came to a stop, there were four of us waiting with bikes. This was an older TER, with steps up to a small space in which to hang only two bikes. I got one of the spots, and Walter, the second lucky cyclist to board, helped me hoist Vivien George onto the hook - an act I reciprocated for his heavy e-bike.

I chatted a bit with Walter as we made our way to Arles, his destination as well as mine. He hails from Switzerland and was starting the third leg on what will be a tour across Europe. Thus far, there had been little of the usual stress of train travel with bike – I had boarded both trains at their origin and had departed Lyon at the terminus. I was a little concerned that there would be enough time for both Walter and me to detrain with bikes and gear during the two minute stop at Arles. But all went smoothly thanks in large part to a helpful young cyclist who boarded at Avignon - three cyclists working together to offload everything in plenty of time.

Outside the Lyon Part Dieu, where a ring of cafés had been replaced by construction barriers and folks offering bible pamphlets

The vision for the renovated train station includes tall glass buildings with office, hotel and retail space

Walter - on his way to Arles to begin another leg on his tour across Europe. He signed up for CycleBlaze, so I'll keep an eye out for his journal.

Getting a big sendoff in Arles from the helpful young cyclist (in the back) and two assistants

As I was not due to arrive in Arles at 8:08 pm, I’d told Suzanne and Janos to not wait for me for dinner, and that I would see them at the hotel. Walking Vivien George down the platform, however, I spotted a familiar face heading toward me – Suzanne and Janos had come to meet me at the station! They’d already eaten, so we rode together the short distance to our hotel where we had a brief catch-up in the hotel garden area before calling it a night – but not before Suzanne retrieved a ham and cheese sandwich from their provision bag for my late dinner. It’s going to be a wonderful week in Provence and the Luberon!

Thumbs up for another CB meet-up and upcoming tour

Today's ride: 7 miles (11 km)
Total: 821 miles (1,321 km)

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