March 20, 2023
To Alhama de Granada
The first day of spring, and my cycle touring in Spain begins. It’s something I’ve been looking forward to for a while, drawn to the rave reviews, big skies and expansive vistas reported in other CycleBlaze journals. I'm excited, but a little anxious knowing that those vistas come with hills – lots of climbing. We’ll just have to see if this old gal is up for it!
I left the hotel just past nine with the intention of sneaking the wrong way down the narrow one-way street at the foot of the steps. It was a short distance to Puerto Nuevo and the plan would avoid the steep climb/descent route suggested by RWGPS. I carefully bounced Vivien George down the steps (on foot) and to my relief the road was clear – a few pedestrians and a motorcycle were all I met during my dash to two-way traffic. Then it was easy-going through the streets of Granada. In less than two miles I was in the outskirts of the city on a dedicated bike lane along the Genil River.
The first climb of the day began after Las Gabias, just over three miles on a small road that took me up through olive orchards and almond groves. I got my first look across the rolling landscape of Andalusia that had been burnished in my brain, and I was thrilled. A descent into into La Mahalá was followed almost immediately by a second climb - the planned route was to follow A338, a busier two-lane road with more traffic and large trucks. I paused and did a bit of re-routing that took me through Escúzar – it was a little longer taking the two legs of a right triangle rather than the hypotenuse, but so much more enjoyable.
I made a brief stop in Escúzar – lured by a sparkling new water fountain in a town plaza. When I asked if the water was good, a passer-by shook his head and pointed me in another direction. His directions were sketchy so I went into a nearby bar, where the barkeep gladly refilled my water bottle. Escúzar is a small quiet where people seemed to not be in a hurry. Older men sat on benches for a brief respite on their slow walk through town. I too could have lingered on a bench, in the warmth of the spring sun. But I moved on, there were more hills to climb.
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Leaving Escúzar, a series of fundulating downhills took me back to A338 where I rejoined my original route just before Ventas del Huelma. I took a small break for almonds and a chocolate milk then headed up the next hill, through groves of almond trees whose deformed trunks lined the hillsides like a battalion in formation. As I got higher, the trees retained more of their blossoms, shimmering in the early afternoon sun. I was feeling pretty strong and glad that I’d put in some hard miles in Morocco.
The climb peaked at what appeared to be a type of ghost town – abandoned buildings that gave me the creeps. As I sped downhill, the uneasiness was quickly replaced by a great sense of joy – it was one of those moments and experiences that I wanted to share with someone in real life. The downhill ended with a steep twisting descent into Cacin – offering spectacular views over the narrow valley. To bad for you readers, but they are retained only in my own hard drive as there were few places I felt safe enough to stop for a picture.
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The climb out of Cacin was stiff, almost four miles averaging 7% and capping out over 20%, according to RWGPS track. There were frequent rest stops, but after the initial steep start I found a slow but sustainable rhythm and made it to the top.
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During the descent toward Alhama de Granada, I realized that my handlebars had been slowly rotating forward. I’d knew that the bike needed a few adjustments - that the hoods were a little far forward to my liking and the seat was a little too low. But it now appeared that I did not adequately tighten the handlebar – and as it rotated forward my bag tilted downward, with Vincent in danger of face-planting on my front tire. Not only was I concerned with Vincent’s well-being, I feared an ensuing crash that might cause severe injury to yours truly. Of course I realized all this on a snaking downhill, in steady traffic, with nowhere to stop. It was an anxious few minutes before I reached the bottom of the hill and was able to find a safe spot to make a quick roadside adjustment. It's always helpful to have the multi-tool in your seat bag.
The final challenge of the day was the ride up through Alhama de Granada to my hotel. It was the challenge that finally broke me, and I resorted to walking the last few hundred yards, totally spent after a hard first day in Spain. At the hotel, I was given a warm welcome and a cold Schweppes lemon and retreated to my room for a hot shower and a little rest. Exploration of the town would have to wait until morning - I was done for the day. But oh what a wonderful day it was.
Today's ride: 36 miles (58 km)
Total: 188 miles (303 km)
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