Telouet to Ait Benhaddou

March 6, 2023

Following a restless night worrying about mold and mountain biking, I was awakened by the sound of early morning prayers. After breakfast, the group piled into our cushy van for the long drive over Tizi N’Tichka Pass to Telouet, where we would begin our cycling adventure. The two-lane national road through the Atlas Mountains was undergoing a major construction project, with stretches of one-lane traffic and roadside construction trucks contributing to a decidedly un-bike friendly road. I empathized greatly with two small groups of touring cyclists that we passed, but was very glad for my secure seat in the van. We made a brief rest stop at the top of the pass, and then turned off the N9 highway toward the small Berber village of Telouet.

Before cycling, we had a guided tour of the Telouet Kasbah, located just outside the village. The Kasbah is situated along the major caravan route that transported goods from throughout Africa, traveling through the Sahara Desert and over the Atlas Mountains into Marrakech. The Kasbah became the seat of power for the Glaoui family who amassed a fortune from nearby salt mines and tariffs collected from the traveling caravans. The family grew in power and popularity during French colonization, but their close relationship with the French was a liability during the political upheaval leading to Moroccan independence. They fell into disrepute and Kasbah has been deteriorating ever since, though some renovation work has been underway since 2010.

Jared from Saratoga Springs, NY is the other solo traveler in our group. He is an avid mountain biker and experienced touring cyclist, and will spend about three weeks cycling in Andalusia before heading back to the US. We spent much of the ride to Telouet comparing our respective plans for touring Andalucia - our time there will overlap but it doesn't look like our paths will cross

The village of Telouet and distant Atlas Mountains

A closer look at Telouet and the Atlas range

Despite its outward appearance, the interior of the Kasbah contains wonderful examples of Moroccan craftsmanship, with colorful mosaics, ornate stucco, and intricately carved cedar ceilings.

A closer look at decorative scallop pattern bordering the ceiling

The colorful mosaic and ornate fresco surrounding an interior window of Kasbah Telouet

It was a perfect day for cycling - moderate temperatures, clear blue skies, little wind. We were all eager to get started and now the time had come to meet our bikes – mine was a full suspension mountain bike with a white saddle.

And then, just like that, I was cycling in Morocco, Africa - winding my way through the narrow Ounila Valley, following the ancient caravan and salt routes. Small Berber villages dotted the river valley, each with a spiffed up mosque surrounded by deteriorating kasbahs and, sometimes, refurbished/newer structures. It is early spring here, and the green valley was rife with blooming almond trees, a glistening white that contrasted sharply with the brick red hues of the buildings and mountains.

And I'm off - winding my way down the Ounila Valley

No matter how small, each Berber village has a mosque and a school, which invariably are the two best maintained buildings in the village

The Berber villages often seemed camouflaged against the similarly hued mountainsides.

Cave dwellings on the cliffs above the river were accessed from above

As we neared Ait Benhaddou, the Atlas Mountains appeared in the distance

Berber villages, glistening almond trees, and snow-capped peaks - a spectacular first day cycling in Morocco

The ride was euphoric – though not without moments of stress. I've found that to be fairly typical when I sign up for a guided group tour - the flutters of anxiety at the prospect of cycling the next week with a small group of strangers. The overall route was downhill, but it was not without its ups and downs. I soon fell behind the group, not quite strong enough to keep up with the men and lacking the eBoost enjoyed by the other women. The trailing riders were usually in my sights, and I did gain ground on the downhills and flats. However, I was torn between stopping for pictures and getting further behind the group. Fortunately, everyone was very supportive and most encouraging. I was reassured by both the guides and the group to enjoy myself and ride my ride. After that, I stopped fretting and enjoyed the final miles into Ait Benhaddou.

Heart

Comment

Link

Today's ride: 29 miles (47 km)
Total: 29 miles (47 km)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	15
Comment on this entry	Comment	6

Rachel and Patrick HugensFantastic narrative
Reply to this comment
1 year ago

Suzanne GibsonGreat pictures! I was hoping riding with a group wouldn't restrict your picture taking.
Reply to this comment
1 year ago

Rachael AndersonGreat photos!
Reply to this comment
1 year ago

Susan CarpenterTo Rachel and Patrick HugensThanks RacPat - I finally have some time to work on my journal, catch up with others, and reply to comments. I hope to be fully caught up by the time I leave for Spain on the 17th.
I very much enjoyed enjoyed meeting you both - I'll have more to say on that days post - and hope that we somehow find our paths crossing again.
Reply to this comment
1 year ago

Susan CarpenterTo Suzanne GibsonThanks Suzanne - maybe not as many pictures as I'd like to have taken, but keeping up with the group was not as important as capturing some of the remarkable landscapes and experiences in photos
Reply to this comment
1 year ago

Susan CarpenterTo Rachael AndersonThanks Rachael - it's hard to take a bad picture of the remarkable architecture or stunning landscapes
Reply to this comment
1 year ago