May 6, 2023
Mont Ventoux
Many events and circumstances led me to this epic day and I want to spend a few words recounting the back story for my future self.
As I’ve commented previously, I began cycling regularly about a dozen years ago and did not take up serious touring until after my retirement in 2017. Most of the first decade was spent cycling in flats of Iowa supplemented with yearly trips to Europe where I faced few serious climbs. I began to challenge my climbing self a couple of years ago on a tour through the Alps, where I experienced the satisfaction and joy of a hard-won ascent. I began to dream of greater heights, but feared I might be aging out of the epic climbs.
Suzanne and I had originally planned a cycling trip in Germany for this spring, but were so swayed by Team Anderson's tales of the Luberon during their tour last autumn that we changed our destination to Provence. It was then that I began to think of Ventoux. Always up for a challenge, Suzanne agreed that our route include a couple of days in Sault to give us the option for an assault on the Bald Mountain, weather permitting. Over the past few months, and even up through yesterday, one or the other of us had wavered - but never simultaneously.
Today, all of the “what-if” factors coalesced in our favor and we set off for the summit under ideal conditions. The weather was perfect – sunny skies, temperatures in low-mid seventies, and most importantly, low winds, with maximum of 12-15 kph predicted for the summit at noon. We both felt physically and mentally strong, bolstered by the encouragement of others, and mindful of Rich Frasier’s advice to set an easy pace at the beginning.
The Sault route is the easiest of the three routes to Ventoux, with fairly gentle grades until reaching the Chalet Reynard where it joins the route from Bédoin. Today it was magical, a glorious ride that wound up through the trees and occasionally opened to spectacular views of the valley below. I was amazed by the stillness - a quiet calm that kept me relaxed as we cycled long stretches with just the sound of the cuckoo, leap-frogging one another up the mountain. The winds were negligible, with perhaps an occasional light tailwind as we neared Chalet Reynard. My heart was singing as I climbed higher, realizing I would make it all the way to the top, even if it meant walking a bit.
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Things got a little crazier after Chalet Reynard – the pitch steepened and we were joined by riders coming up from Bedoin. I took advantage of most of the pull-outs, while Suzanne pulled ahead on the final stretch. As I made for the final turn, a car forced me to the inside, which was the steepest part of a very steep curve. A huge burst of energy took me up to the concrete apron that covers the top of the mountain, but I had to stop to catch my breath - less than fifty yards to the summit. I could see Suzanne up ahead, camera in hand, but the remaining yards were too steep to cycle. Determined not to walk, I backtracked a short ways to a more level spot where I could remount and complete the ride. Yahoo – we did it!
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The summit was a sea of cyclists, all smiles and selfies. And we joined them. Remarkably, there was neither wind nor a summit sign at the top! We poked around the store/souvenir shop in search of memorabilia - Suzanne found a jersey from among the slim pickings and I picked up a hat. Suzanne tried to reach Janos to reassure him that we’d summited in fine form, but he was off on his own Ventoux (mis)adventure. I’ll leave it to Suzanne to fill in the details – I’ll just say he had quite the day and everything worked out just fine.
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The descent was my next challenge, for as much as I had wanted to climb Mont Ventoux, it was the descent that I most feared. And today the wind gods were kind. The top portion was a bit hairy, and I braked most of the way to the Chalet Reynard as other brave/crazy souls whizzed by. Thereafter it was a complete blast, with long stretches where I let loose the reins on Vivien George.
It was an extraordinary ride, one that was made even more special by sharing it with Suzanne.
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Today's ride: 32 miles (51 km)
Total: 965 miles (1,553 km)
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