May 12, 2023
Les Gorges de l'Ardèche
Yet another day in Southern France filled with an amazing route, spectacular views, and super companions –a day ride through Les Gorges de l’Ardéche with Ann and Steve, and without panniers. It couldn’t get much better. We’d agreed to meet at nine at my hotel but I sneaked out a little early for a few photos of the immediate area. It was a sunny, blue sky morning with a slight chill and rains expected later in the afternoon.
Our destination was Col de Serre du Terre, the high point on the gorge road before it drops down to Vallon-Pont-d'Arc. It was tempting to go all the way to Vallon-Pont-d'Arc, but we decided last night that the fifty mile round trip would not only leave less time to stop and enjoy the views/one another’s company but it might tempt the rains gods. It turned out to be a great decision. We stopped at almost every overlook as well as various spots in between, took several long breaks for lunching and/or chatting, and made it back to Saint-Martin d’Ardéche before the rain.
I’d not paid too much attention to our route itself, expecting a ride up to Col de Serre and back down. The route did in fact begain with a climb out of Saint-Martin, but the next ten or so miles could best be characterized as up, down, and around. I never worked too hard and was periodically rewarded with sweet descents. I’ll let the pictures recount some highlights of the day.
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Once into town, the important task of the day was at hand: where to have dinner. We cruised the menus posted outside the restaurants located along the river and identified a couple of options. However, we were keen to check out the highly rated restaurant across the river – Le Drillo. The menu did not have immediate Wow Factor but it looked intriguing enough for Steve booked a table for 7:30.
By 7:15 it was raining hard. We walked across the unlit bridge in the dark and pouring rain, somewhat protected from the elements by two umbrellas I’d borrowed from my hotel. Though we arrived dripping wet, we were warmly greeted by our hostess, who took great care of us the entire evening. As did her husband, the chef - we were the only guests that evening and so had his undivided attention. The four course meal was a wonder of flavor and texture in interesting combinations, capped by the best profiteroles I’d ever tasted – a slight crust on the choux pastry with rich homemade ice cream and a thick, dark chocolate sauce. It was a fantastic meal and a wonderful evening of shared stories, laughter and dreams of rides to come – a fitting end to a memorable day shared with two warm and adventurous souls. I am looking forward to our next meet-up.
Today's ride: 37 miles (60 km)
Total: 1,123 miles (1,807 km)
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