I had another restless night, waking at 2 am with mold on my mind. The builder/developer had offered to come by my condo to inspect things and help identify the source of the mold. Thanks, but I was inclined to delay getting him involved until I had an independent evaluation of the problem. After an hour of tossing and turning, I finally called the co-owner of the air purification company for advice. He assured me that he would take care of the builder as well as the decontamination and that I should enjoy my Moroccan vacation. I took a Benadryl and got four hours more of sleep.
It was another beautiful day for cycling, with clear skies and temperatures in the 70s. However, our day began not with cycling but with a visit to the Ksar of Ait-Ben-Haddou, a UNESCO world heritage site since 1987. The Ksar is a small village of earthen buildings that winds up the hillside across the Ounila River. High walls surround parts of the Ksar, while in other places only remnants of the fortified structures remain. Our route took us through narrow streets now lined with shops selling wares and novelty items to a small plateau area where the remains of a grainary now stand. The vistas from the top were stunning in all directions - it was easy to see why Ksar of Ait-Ben-Haddou has been featured in so many films and television shows - including The Sheltering Sky and Game of Thrones.
A wonderful view from inside my hotel greeted me this morning
Warm and wonderful Bekah and Hal, world travelers and cyclists from the Olympic Peninsula. At 77, Hal is the only person in the group who is older than me - and he is also riding a regular mountain bike
After our tour, we had an approximate 2 hr transfer through the Valley of Roses to the small town of Kalaat MGouna, located on the Asif M’Goun river. There we got on the bikes, left the main road and headed north on tarmac. The first few miles took us through a string of small Berber settlements but soon we were following the river through a desert-like landscape occasionally punctuated with small Berber villages. Though we were cycling through a narrow river valley, the expanse of desert and sky lent an enormity to our surroundings that was both humbling and awe-inspiring. There was essentially no traffic, just the few men, women and children who warmly greeted us as we passed through some of the larger villages. We cycled fifteen miles along the deserted road before stopping for lunch in the small Hotel Awayou, where we sipped another cup of mint tea and feasted on tajine.
Mark and France from Boston - curious, knowledgeable and up for adventure
After lunch, we turned east, leaving both the Asif M'Goun river and pavement. The landscape was even more barren and otherworldly, with only scattered outpost settlements to indicate human habitation. At first, the roadway seemed somewhat indistinguishable from its surroundings, but the surface was generally hard-packed and easily handled by the mountain bike equipped with wide, knobby tires. I made slow but steady progress but fell behind during four mile climb. However, I was intent on making up ground during on the descent as we were promised a stop for tea in a Berber cave, a stop I did not want to miss.
The small Berber encampment included a small cave / large dugout that was carved out of a barely noticeable rise in the terrain. Nearby, a weathered tent flapped in the light breeze, guarded by an even more weathered, elderly Berber. A donkey stood patiently outside the cave while a rooster hopped from ground to roof and back again. Others in the group wandered about taking photos while I went straight into the cave, plopping myself down on the cushioned floor with sacks of grain supporting my back. Tea was brewing in the corner, and as others found their seat in the cave we were all graciously served by our Berber hosts, Ali and Ahmad. We lingered a bit, learning of their semi-nomadic life that took them into the Sahara when the colds of winter descended into the lower Atlas region. Somewhat reluctantly, I said good-bye and continued onward.
The route continued downhill about 2.5 miles east before intersecting with the paved highway that led north through Boumaine Dades and to Dades Gorges, located about 11 miles north of the town. Our hotel was located in between, so after arriving at the hotel we all quickly piled into the waiting van for the 7+ mile drive up to the Gorges viewing area. It was late in the day when we arrived, around 6 pm, and the setting sun cast long shadows that no doubt detracted from the splendor of the gorges. And it may be that the beauty of Dades Gorges is better appreciated by hiking along the river or on one of the many trails. After today’s cycle through the desert, I was certainly glad not to have put in the effort to bike up to the gorge, especially given the time of day and the queue of vehicles snaking up and down the sharp switchbacks.
Our time at Dades Gorges was brief, and after a short stop at the a spot known as“monkey paws”we arrived back at the hotel at 7 pm, in plenty of time to clean up before our 8 pm Tajine dinner.
It was a very full and exhilarating day - a journey both back in time and to a place that time seems to have passed by. The cycling was challenging, but very rewarding. I've put my own pedals on the bike, which helped tremendously on the climbs and in the dirt. But most importantly, the others in the group are kindred souls who all support and encourage one another. I'm still last, but have shed my stress and am quite enjoying myself. Dare I say that I'm pinching myself in disbelief that I am really here!
Today's ride: 27 miles (43 km) Total: 56 miles (90 km)
