In Seville

April 2, 2023 to April 4, 2023

In the two and a half days I spent in Seville, I visited none of the “must see attractions” listed in the many city guides – not the Cathedral of Seville, not the Real Alcazar, not even the Plaza de España. This was mostly due to poor planning on my part – the Cathedral was closed two of the three days I was in town, and tickets for Monday were sold out. It is also true that being in Seville during arguably the biggest event of the year changes priorities alters logistics of how you spend your time. Not only were there errands to do, people to meet, and processions to see, it was a big challenge to just find your way around the city.

Pedestrian traffic on many of the streets around the Cathedral/my hotel was restricted to narrow walkways that ran between seating platforms, and streets could be completely blocked if there was a procession passing by. In the latter case, people either tried to wade through the sea of procession onlookers, or attempted to find alternate routes to their destination - and many of us were tourists and not familiar with layout of the city streets. A number of times I just followed the throngs, hoping they knew a route that would get around/through/across the procession.

I've consolidated my time in Seville to a single and post I’ve tried to give a somewhat brief synopsis of each day’s main events, with accompanying photos. I started out taking a lot of pictures, as a first-time visitor might. But by Tuesday, I was the jaded tourist, keeping the camera in the bag.

Sunday, April 2

The major events of this day are chronicled in the previous post – what is missing from that entry is the two hours I spent exploring a small slice of Seville while waiting for my hotel room to be ready. I first set off to find the eating establishment recommended by the hotel, but the line to get in had spilled into the street so I settled on a Middle Eastern restaurant next door. The place was packed with families – two or three generations, all dressed up and out for Palm Sunday supper. My meal was mediocre, at best, so I was soon out the door and exploring some of the sights of Seville in my little neighborhood.

The Cathedral of Seville was closed today, so I opted for a stroll around the outside

A peek through an archway gave me a glimpse at The Patio de los Naranjos, the Courtyard of the Orange Trees

The top of La Giralda, the tower and bell tower of the Seville Cathedral

Relief above one of the fifteen doors of the Seville Cathedral

Some of the flying buttresses of the Seville Cathedral

Palacio Arzobispal, the Fuente Farola, and procession viewing chairs

Plaza del Trifuno and the Monumento a la Inmaculada Concepción

Monday, April 3

The first order of the day was taking Vivien George in for a check-up. The Bici Activi shop recommend by Brian was across the Rio Guadalquivir in Triana, about a half hour walk. I introduced myself to Iain and told him Brian had sent me, which brought a smile and nod of recognition. I went through the litany of events that led me to their bike shop, and they agreed to have a look. But not now. I was to leave Vivien George with them and hopefully they could have her in good form by Wednesday, as everything was closed the rest of the week for Semana Santa. As it turned out, I got a call that Vivien George was ready to go and I could pick her up that afternoon. Nothing major, just some adjustments to the derailleurs. In retrospect, things were probably not so dire on that lonely road to Montellano – I was just too frozen to act aggressively as thoughts of major damage filled my head. But I can’t second guess the past, just delight in the good news that the tour will continue.

The next big event of the day was a long-anticipated CycleBlaze meet-up with the legendary duo Steve and Dodie aka The Grampies. They had scouted out a restaurant near the Real Alcazar and I was to meet them at 2 pm at the nearby TI center. Steve called about 1:30 to say they were early, so I headed over. We spent a delightful two hours together – the food was so-so but the conversation was super. As you might imagine, there was a lot of discussion about bikes, gear and cycle touring – but also a fair amount about Semana Santa and cameras. We departed looking forward to another meet-up, perhaps in Paris, or maybe near Vancouver with a gang of CycleBlazers who live near the west coast of North America.

Monday night was Flamenco! I actually almost missed it, trying to get through the crowds and processions as I made my way to La Casa del Flamenco, located in a 15th century palace in Santa Cruz district of Seville. But I made it, arriving at 6:59 for the 7:00 pm show. I was quietly ushered to a seat as the pre-performance announcements were being made and then it was an hour of dancing - with castanets, stomping, clapping, snapping – accompanied by beautiful guitar playing and the distinctive Andalusian songs sung "with deep feeling” that often included a bit of moaning or wailing. It was a wonderful performance – and was over much too soon.

Iain and Carlos, the helpful and very fine crew at Bici Activa

Monumento a Diego Velázquez at Pl. del Duque de la Victoria

I stumbled on another procession on the way to pick up Vivien George - this one depicting Jesus under arrest

The Paso was stopped, so I got a peak at the feet of the costaleros

The five performers at La Casa del Flamenco: the two dancers on the left, the two singers, and the guitar player.

Flamenco! I didn't get too many action shots as photography was only allowed at the end, after the performance was over.

Tuesday, April 5

I decided to break with routine this morning and go out for breakfast – and I hit the jackpot, Milk Away is a wonderful little place not far from Plaza Nueva that serves a large variety of healthy breakfast (and lunch) items. I ordered a large latte, a green smoothie, and was torn between pancakes and porridge with fruit. I finally opted for the latter, with a side of natural yogurt. It was my kind of meal – healthy, tasty, and filling. The staff were wonderful and the place was a gem. I left feeling happy and strong!

And I was in for another amazing meal today. I’d booked lunch at Mechela Restaurant, which serves a traditional cuisine, “revisited from a more current approach”. I chose a starter of grilled beef on toast and a main of cod stew – the special of the day. Though they sound simple, each dish delivered on taste, texture and depth of flavors. It was definitely the best meal of the tour.

After two great meals, I headed back to the hotel to prepare for my online French class. Yes, I’ve taken the plunge and have committed myself to learning proper French grammar. The course meets online for an hour on Tuesdays and Thursdays, and there is homework!!! It may cut into my journaling time, and I may get a bit behind – but fear not, I won’t quit altogether.

Milk Away - a great break from toast and tomato sauce

A lasting impression of Semana Santa in Seville

Despite the challenges and seeming chaos of Seville during Semana Santa, I loved most every minute of my time there. It’s in the running for my second favorite European city, after Paris of course. I’m not upset at having missed out on the major attractions, for I hope to be back again – just maybe not during Semana Santa.

Today's ride: 3 miles (5 km)
Total: 510 miles (821 km)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	9
Comment on this entry	Comment	2

Rachael AndersonGlad you were able to get your bike adjusted! I love your photos of exploring Seville and visiting with the Grampies. I highly recommend a meet up in Vancouver with all the cyclists from there! It’s a great group and Vancouver is a great place.
Reply to this comment
1 year ago

Janice BranhamHow wonderful to be there for the Semana Santa processions. I'm enjoying your wonderful photos and taking notes for a visit in the fall.
Reply to this comment
1 year ago