I did not venture out into the city after arriving at my Riad last night, electing to have dinner in-house and get a good night’s sleep. I woke this morning refreshed and ready to take in the sights, smells, sounds, and colors of Marrakech. By the end of a very full day, I had visited some of the top attractions of the city, wandered through the maze of souks, met my cycling group, and had a second tour of Marrakech. It was a very full day.
I left the hotel shortly after breakfast, making my way through the narrow streets lined with baskets of herbs and push carts piled high with morning deliveries to the small shops along the alley. My first stop was Bahai Palace, a 19th century Sultan’s palace that was taken over by the French but reverted to a royal residence after Moroccan independence in 1956. The palace was later transferred to the Moroccan Ministry of Culture and is now one of the most visited tourist attractions in Morocco.
The Palace was full of tourists, wandering through the many, many rooms, gardens and squares. Today’s visit was on my own; however, a second, guided tour is scheduled at the end of the week. I’ll share a few pictures now and hope to post a fuller, more informed report later.
Morning delivery of supplies to the shops along the alley, many of which are not yet open for business
After leaving the Bahai Palace, I headed north along the trafficked streets of Marrakech, taking in the city bustle on a splendid sunny and blue sky day. My destination was Dar El Bacha, the “house of the pasha” now known as the Museum of Confluences. This private palace was built in 1910 by the pasha Thami El Glaoui, a powerful political figure who wanted a lavish residence to impress his famous guests, which included Colette and Josephine Baker. It was renovated by the Moroccan National Foundation of Museums and converted to a museum with exhibits “highlighting the different facets of Moroccan culture” and a confluence of monotheistic religions.
Horses, people, cars, bicycles and motos all participate in the ebb and flow of traffic in the Medina
Room in Dar el Bacha showing the four elements of Moroccan architecture: Marble floors; Mosaic tiles; Stucco; and Cedar ceilings. The marble came from Italy, once traded pound for pound for salt; the color of the tiles derived from natural products such as mint and saffron; the ornateness of the stucco design was a sign of wealth; and the cedar in the ceilings is from the Atlas Mountains and used to protect against insect infestation.
On leaving Dar El Bacha, I circled back toward the main square of Marrakech through the maze of souks. Along the way, I stopped at a small shop where two men were seated outside and I asked if I might take a photo. “Only if you are in it” came the reply. Why? “To make your husband jealous”. When informed that I had no husband, I was invited to be the gentleman’s fourth wife! Declining his offer, I continued through the maze of the souks in the general direction of Ta’jin Darna, a lunch stop recommended by my hotel.
Once in the souks, it was pretty much impossible to know where I was going – there was virtually no cell signal and the twists and turns overwhelmed my limited sense of direction. The best strategy was to follow random tourists who seemed like they knew where they were going. Eventually, I found myself in the large market square, Place Jemaa el fna, which was bustling with shops, street performers, and juice stands. The restaurant bordered the square and I settled at an outside table for a fine medley of Moroccan appetizers and people watching.
My "thumbs up" signal was before I was asked to be wife number 4!
Scott AndersonI warned you to be wary of things like this, didn’t I? Remember why happened to Deborah Winger in The Sheltering Sky! Reply to this comment 1 year ago
After lunch I went back to my Riad to collect my belongs and join the cycling group at a different hotel, one which had no rooms available on the night of my arrival. After checking in, the group gathered for a brief introductory session and then we were off on a guided tour of Marrakech. The highlight of the tour was our stop at Ben Youssef Madrasa, “the largest and most important Islamic school in Marrakech and Morocco”. The building was closed for careful restoration during COVID and had just recently opened for tourists.
The next stop was a small spice and tea shop where we were all allowed to sample the fragrances of medicinal spices and extracts before sharing an afternoon mint tea, a longstanding tradition in Morocco. Our final stop was the Kutubiyya Mosque. We arrived at sunset, as large numbers of Muslims were gathering for the Maghrib prayer, which takes place at sunset each day. Women were consigned to one entrance, the men at another – all crowding together and removing their shoes as time of prayer approached.
The interior courtyard and reflecting pool in Ben Youssef Madrasa. The upstairs rooms are used by the invited and highly selected group of students
Kathleen JonesIt’s been more than 30 years since I was in Morocco and so far it seems like it hasn’t changed all that much. Modern, of course, but the souks and the square and the people and oh my the art, all timeless. This was a wonderful tour of the city, Susan. I’m absolutely certain I had mint tea one night on the roof of your lunch stop (ahem). Reply to this comment 1 year ago
Susan CarpenterTo Kathleen JonesThanks Kathleen - can't believe you might have stopped at the same restaurant! One change noted by some in our group that had been here years ago was that the peddlers don't seem to hassle one as much - once you say "No" they tend to leave you alone. Reply to this comment 1 year ago
