October 17, 2023
West Newton to Pittsburgh
The final miles through the valley of steel
I awoke to the reality of my days of living on the bike in the great outdoors were ending. A quiet morning at the Plumer House was almost too comfortable to leave. Breakfast was Eggo waffles and oatmeal from the Airbnb’s refrigerator and pastries from Gary’s Chuckwagon.
I loaded my bike for the final day and headed across the Youghiogheny on the iron bridge. I turned onto the trail and headed towards Pittsburgh. It was a pleasant uneventful morning cycling through small river towns with a chill in the air but no rain. The trail passes through the skeletons of settlements of the glory days of the Steel Valley.
I stopped at the small visitor information center at the Boston trailhead staffed by volunteers. This type of center shows the commitment of the community to the trail. I cycled onto McKeesport after a short visit. McKeesport is the front door to Pittsburgh from the east The trail passes through the city mostly on a riverside trail with a small portion of quiet on-street cycling.
The valley’s steel history is evident as I cycled through the city towards Duquesne. I left McKeesport climbing a bridge over Youghiogheny and began my cycle to Pittsburgh along the Monongahela. A short distance ahead was the Pumphouse, the site of a monumental violent US labor conflict in 1892 that left many dead.
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I entered The Waterfront retail and entertainment district located on the site of the massive Carnegie Steelworks. Relics remain preserved amidst modern development. I was pleasantly surprised that the trail passing through The Waterfront is now paved with asphalt.
I cycled through an urban tunnel of green before arriving at the Southside Works, another retail and dining district in the historic Pittsburgh Southside neighborhood. I crossed the Hot Metal Bridge where the Jones and Laughlin Steel Company carried molten steel across the river in rail cars to its foundry on the opposite shore. A mid-bridge stop gave me my first view of Pittsburgh in the distance.
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The final miles were a stark contrast to the cycling of the past week. Heavy traffic on multilevel expressways, office buildings, numerous cyclists and pedestrians, and urban noises led me to Point State Park. Pittsburgh had just completed the last upgraded section of the trail to pass along the river rather than winding through a parking deck.
Point State Park came into view where the Monongahela and Allegheny Rivers join to form the Ohio River. It is the end of the Great Allegheny Passage, designated with a medallion on the pavement with a spectacular fountain as a backdrop of the city’s skyline. Time to celebrate!
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The group decided to head to Primanti Brothers in the Strip District for the post-tour celebration lunch. Primanti's is a Pittsburgh tradition. The menu is limited to large hardy sandwiches with your choice of deli meat topped with a sweet and tart vinegary coleslaw and a heaping mound of fries. Don't knock it until you try it! It is delicious.
It was a leisurely cycle on the trail along the Allegheny River to the Pittsburgh Convention Center where I turned onto the ramp leading up to street level with cascading waters lining the sides. I was only a block from the Grant Street Transportation Center where my car was parked for the week.
I loaded the bike on my car and headed to Bicycle Heaven. I often cycle to Bicycle Heaven, but time was short and the weather less than optimal. It was a short drive across the river to the North Shore neighborhood.
Bicycle Heaven is a unique place and a must-visit for cyclists. Craig Morrow has collected an eclectic mix of about 6,000 bicycles and cycling memorabilia into a one-of-a-kind museum and tribute to the bicycle. Bikes spanning over a hundred years reflecting our culture and trends in design make for an enjoyable visit.
The next two hundred miles in my Jeep to my home in a little more than three hours was quite in contrast to my commute over the past seven days.
Today's route
What a wonderful way to end the tour.
Tom on the trails
Today's ride: 36 miles (58 km)
Total: 36 miles (58 km)
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