May 22, 2023
Three good blokes in Verona
Mantova to Verona
So it’s down to this; the last day of riding for Franklin and me, and the continuation of a long cycle for John albeit without my steady navigational skills to guide him through the rest of Europe.
We aimed to get to Verona by lunchtime as it’s only about fifty kilometres away. A nine thirty start was within an acceptable margin of error and we didn’t linger over breakfast as it was already warming up. I didn’t think I would be saying that a few days ago. We took a straight route to Verona rather than go by the underwhelming Lake Garda and followed a nice single track out of Mantova and then onto quiet country roads winding their way through seemingly unoccupied little villages. Monday mornings seem a particularly quiet time in Italy with most shops shut and few people on the streets. I suspect they’re getting over all the Aperol Spritz they consumed on Sunday.
Within ten kilometres of Verona we picked up some bike paths and rolled into the old city in time for lunch. I recognised a church with a cafe in the courtyard as one that Cherie and I had frequented when we had stayed here for a week several years ago. It was just as good as I remembered.
After diverting by the Hellas Verona football store to buy Cherie the club kit she’s been desperate for, we battled the crowds to get over the river and to the apartment we stayed in last time we were here. I also remembered that Cherie and I had had a spectacular meal overlooking the river in a 1 Michelin star restaurant during our last visit so I tracked that down and made a booking for the three of us. We couldn’t get a table on the river side as the veranda is so narrow the tables can only hold two people so I settle for an outside table on the street side. The owner is clearly unimpressed with my attire as he scornfully looks me up and down. I’m on my way to the laundromat so by this evening I should scrub up Ok and maybe even impress him. Franklin has also been giving me a few fashion tips and I’ve been quietly observing his beauty regime in the morning. I might borrow one of his moisturisers and really make an effort.
We head out at 7.30 for a beer and then on to Osteria Ponte Pietra for a celebratory dinner. It’s a beautiful balmy evening for our final meal together. The food is memorable but the evening is marred by the shenanigans of the owner the likes of which I’ve never experienced before. The outside veranda has about eight tables and is half full. We’re having a glass of wine and looking at the menu when the owner sits down at one of the empty tables and starts playing with his phone. After a while he starts watching a video with the volume up so we can all hear it. Meanwhile staff are running around doing their job and this fucker is sitting there with legs splayed gazing at his device. After another few minutes an American diner leans over and says “Hey, you’re the owner aren’t you?”. “Yes”. “Can you turn off your phone as it’s very intrusive and spoiling our dinner”. “Why?” “Where in an expensive restaurant and you’re ruining our night”. “Oh. It’s too noisy??”. He reluctantly turns the sound off but sits there arrogantly, no apology no nothing. The guy that served us was brilliant but the owner never made eye contact with him or anyone else. Occasionally he’d get up and talk to someone he knew and then sat down again and stared at his phone. He was there the entire night and did nothing constructive. I’ve never reviewed a restaurant before but I’m going to break my duck on this one. He also didn’t comment on my dinner outfit of grey slacks, beige shirt and brown shoes set off with Franklins smoking jacket.
Our walk home along the river was interrupted by a sneaky glass of red and a cheese platter in a what must be the sister restaurant to Pont de Pietre as the service was equally as arrogant but at least the owner wasn’t sitting around so that’s a plus.
It was still a great final night to our cycling adventure.
Today's ride: 50 km (31 miles)
Total: 1,756 km (1,090 miles)
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1 year ago
Thanks for reading. It has been a lot of fun. See you soon.
1 year ago
1 year ago
1 year ago