From horse to donkey

May 13, 2023

Verona to Mantova

We stayed just outside the old walled centre of Verona, just across the river. The main town is already teaming with tourists but where we are is very local. Dinner at a local trattoria was preceded by Franklin still trying to sort out his wardrobe. Eventually I stepped in and made some hard decisions on his behalf and we headed off for a beer and an interesting dinner at what turned out to be an establishment specialising in cavallo (horse).

In retrospect I was a little harsh not allowing Franklin to bring any long trousers or shoes. Still, I think he looks equally as stylish as the gentleman in front of him.

I started with tartare di Cavallo which I thought tasted much more like zebra than horse and followed that up with tortellini di Cavallo which tasted much more horsey than my entree. I passed on the Panna Cotta Di Cavallo.

It’s a clear sunny morning in Verona vindicating our decision to abandon Slovenia. We’re now onto plan C and won’t ride to Rome but rather do a big loop ride through northern Italy, loop around to Bologna and end up back in Verona to pick up our gear and head home.

Hopefully trains and rain are a distant memory.

Our ride today is to Lake Garda and then further south. Again it’s bike trails most of the way and pretty flat so we’re there by lunchtime. Lake Garda sounds idyllic but it’s very busy with wall to wall cafes and tourists that specialise in walking diagonally across the bike path. There’s camping grounds filled with camper vans parked almost on top of each other within ten metres of the lake but separated by a Trump style fence which I can’t decide if is to keep us out or them in.

After lunch we head away from the lake and follow the river (flume Mincio) for 40 kilometres to Mantova. The path that runs beside the river is flat and smooth and so much nicer than riding around the lake. The only struggle is the buffeting headwind that increases steadily along with the ominous build up of storm clouds.

We reach Mantova just as it starts spitting and book into a hotel by the railway station. It was just nice to be back on the bike. I think Franklin was particularly happy as I think he was wondering whether this might end up being just a slow train holiday.

We headed into town in the evening for a few beers before finding another trattoria down an alleyway for hopefully a nice big bowl of pasta. It’s Saturday night and the town is humming , the promenade is on and the bars are full. This is definitely not a tourist town and we seem rather conspicuous in our attire as we pretend to be locals.

I’m confident I won’t get lost as that jacket is visible within five kilometres.

I don’t fancy Cavallo tonight and luckily the trattoria we stumble upon has no hint of horse on the menu. Instead they specialise in Asina which a quick google translate reveals that this a donkey restaurant. We order a sharing platter followed by tagliatelle di Asina. Strangely they come out in reverse order but that is apparently normal so we demolish a surprisingly tasty dish. Novelty factor aside, I would order Asina again. It tastes mildly gamey and pairs beautifully with the Valpolicella Syrah which has always been my favourite donkey wine. Our Albanian waiter is delightful. She speaks excellent English and Italian and I suspect has a pretty good handle on Albanian. Turns out she’s studying languages at university in Mantova. She goes above and beyond by not only ordering a taxi (15 minute phone call) but runs out to the taxi in the now pouring rain to speak to the driver.

I think I might try that pose myself as it looks so natural.

Today's ride: 82 km (51 miles)
Total: 1,272 km (790 miles)

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