July 19, 2017
Day 16 Portland to Champoeg Park (pronounced
It was hard, I admit, to get up at 5:00 in the morning, but we really needed to get moving as we knew there was a challenging hill up ahead in Oregon City and we wanted to tackle it before it got too hot. A perfect little breakfast of toast and fresh fruit with Marlene and we were ready to say goodbye to her and her dog, Amber, along with Jack, a second golden retriever that Marlene was looking after. They were adorable and it was hard to say goodbye. Marlene, you were a great hostess and we will be thinking of you and Stan this Sunday on your special day!
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We left Portland by way of the cycle route which runs along Highway 205.
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This is a very efficient way to get through Portland, although it as marred by the many homeless camps we saw along they way. It was sad to see such poverty in such a beautiful place.
Once we were out of Portland proper, the signage for the Highway 205 route became a little sparse and we had a moment where we went back and forth, trying to figure out where we were supposed to go. A little break, sitting in the grass and having an energy bar and we were able to tackle our routing issue and get ourselves back on track. I am sure this will be a continuing theme as we make our way, particularly when entering and exiting bigger cities.
After a short coffee stop (Starbucks again!), we entered the outskirts of Oregon City. Routing here was an issue, as there is a really really big hill that I didn't particularly want to tackle if it could be avoided, but the only way around seemed to be on Hwy 99, which was not deemed a bike route, meaning there would probably be no shoulders. We were entering a little parkway which would take us into Oregon City, when we came upon Burl, a lovely older gentleman riding his recumbent bike.
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We stopped to chat for a bit - he admiring our Canadian flags, us admiring his American one. As he was on his way back home after cycling to Oregon City, we asked if there was a way around the big hill. "Well, just take the elevator" said Burl. What? An elevator? "Yes", he said, "there's an elevator that goes up the bluff so you don't have to ride up it". Well, hallelujah! We've been rescued! We thanked Burl for this golden bit of information and happily rode the rest of the beautiful trail leading along to the city.
A quick check on directions at a local gas station and we were soon in the lower part of Oregon City, heading towards the elevator, which sure enough, took us up to the top of the bluff! Best bit of hill climbing I've done yet!!!
With the hill out of the way, we decided to stop and have an early lunch. Along with our sandwiches, we were offered either coleslaw or a pickle and chips - well, no decision there! Pickles! Yum!!! We enjoyed our little break and after stopping to slap on the sunscreen, we headed out.
Well, out, now that's a relative term. We started out, but soon we were going up. Yep. Up, up, up!!!! While we had missed the sharp short hill at the beginning, we had not realized that we still had to climb up to the top of this city in order to get to where we were going. It was a slog and I employed my new strategy (thanks to some other Crazyguy bloggers for this!) of riding for as far as I could, stopping for a drink and then riding again. In this fashion, we made it to the top, but it was long and hot and we were pretty pooped by the time we got there!
Of course, with a big up, comes a big down and we coasted the whole way down this monster hill to where it caught up with Highway 99. This is where, once again, Google Map let us down. I should have looked more carefully and thought about finding a way that did not route us on a highway, but since silly Google Map said it was the way to go, I through it would be ok - bad decision, very very bad! We got to the bottom of the very steep hill and joined the highway. Although we didn't have far to go before we would be turning off, we found ourselves going uphill along a very busy highway with no (yes, I mean no) shoulder. There was a white line, maybe 24" and then a guardrail. There was no way I was going to ride on this - too many big trucks coming along here, so we walked it. And this time, I walked on the right of my bike! It was a hair raising time that was probably about 1/2 mile, but it was the scariest 1/2 mile I've ever expereinced! Never, ever again will I rely on Google Map!!!!! Always ask the locals - that's the golden rule and we forgot it, thinking that we had gotten past the worst part by taking the elevator, we didn't think to check with anyone about the rest of the route - rookie mistake! Won't happen again, my friends, will not happen again!
We finally managed to get ourselves off the highway and onto a quiet stretch where we took some time to have a little break, eat a snack and rest up after our highway experience.
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Moving along at a much slower pace, we were again enjoying the scenery when what did my eye spy on the side of the road? Blackberries? Ripe ones? They were not ripe when we left BC just a few weeks ago and yet here were some luscious, large and very ripe blackberries just sitting there ready to be picked! And pick we did, spending some time just enjoying the flavour of a favourite treat from my childhood.
Satiated with our blackberry feast, we continued on down the road where we came upon a local fruit stand. I asked Jim to stop so we could pick up some veggies to add to our dinner tonight so we pulled in. Well, veggies they really didn't have, but pies and ice cream they did! We bought a small rhubarb/raspberry pie for later and both indulged in ice cream cones which we gladly gobbled up right there. Ah, now this is what touring on bikes is all about! Stopping to enjoy the moment, finding little treats along the way and not being in any hurry to get somewhere soon - I was in my happy place!
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We eventually arrived at the Butteville (yes, that's the name for real) Store, where we had antipated purchasing supplies for dinner, only to find that, lovely as the place is, it is really just a small, overpriced business with very little to offer, except ice cream. Having had our fill just down the road, we passed on the ice cream and bought a small quiche and some bananas and cereal for dinner and breakfast. It was disappointing in the extreme that, although they stocked beer, they couldn't sell it to us and the one person who worked there who was old enough to sell liquor was not there and they had no idea when they would return - grrrrrr!!
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As we left the store, we chatted with a local woman who wanted to know about our ride. She told Jim that we did not have to ride up the entire big hill just ahead - oh thank goodness! Apparently there was a bike path into the campground. A couple of kids stood nearby and offered to show us the way. Charlie and Zach waited for us as we chatted with a park ranger about where we could camp. They led us up the short stretch, waiting as I stopped to take my little break a couple of times (it was steep!) and then off onto the road and then the trail. What a beautiful way to first experience Champoeg Park! Charlie and Zack rode with us the entire 2 miles up to the station where we could sign in for our first experience at a hiker/biker site. Thanks, guys, you are amazing!
Jim and I had read much about hiker/biker sites and were looking forward to experiencing one ourselves. For the cost of $5.00 each, we had a place to put our tent in a shaded area away from the more boisterous family camping area, as well as free showers - yes, I said that, free showers!!! Now, you may recall my extreme disappointment with the camping we found back up in LaConnor. This place, compared to that, was heaven! Peaceful, quiet, with just one other biker onsite.
We unpacked and after a short walk to check out the park, had our little dinner. There was no cell service in the camping area, so after dinner we rode our bikes up to the ranger station so I could let people know we were fine.
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After that, we enjoyed a long, warm shower, ate our super tasty pie and retired to our tent for a couple rounds of gin - it was too windy by then to play outside. We were lulled to sleep by the sounds of the woods in the evening - what a life!!!
Today's ride: 60 km (37 miles)
Total: 631 km (392 miles)
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