July 21, 2024
Day Thirty-seven: Sparta, Wisconsin to West Baraboo, Wisconsin
I kept waking up last night for some reason. It was one of the worst non-camping nights of sleep on this tour. So of course I was moving slow this morning, and it was after 8:00 by the time I rode out. I biked a few miles on quiet streets until I rejoined the bike path. The majority of the day I'd be on this unpaved trail. That's more bike trail than I can easily tolerate. Eventually I get bored and frustrated by the unchanging scenery and the tunnel of trees.
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The path didn't seem especially well maintained. There were several sand sections, and several sections with deep ruts. The first several miles were a steady climb. Occasionally I'd get a glimpse of the road to my left. The trail seemed to be gradually climbing above the road.
Finally I reached the big, intimidating entrance to the first of three long tunnels on the trail. I stood there for a while pondering it.
I couldn't see the end of the tunnel, but I did see a wobbling head light. A cyclist was ignoring the signs warning bikers to walk through the tunnel and was riding toward me.
The cyclist emerged. He was riding a fixed gear bike. I talked to him for a while, and learned that he and his wife were visiting from Kansas. I mentioned that I frequently ride a single speed, a brand that I said I'm sure he'd never heard of: A Wabi. The guy said he also owned a Wabi! He wasa the first person I'd ever met who'd even heard of the obscure brand, much less owned one.
We talked a while, then he turned around to ride back through the tunnel. He told me it was 3/4 of a mile long and it was "raining" inside, and slippery.
I decided to walk my bike through the tunnel. I got out my headlight, to find that it was almost out of battery. Great.
I started pushing the bike carefully through the tunnel. It was extremely eerie. I don't think I could have done it without my flickering headlight.
About halfway through, I heard voices behind me. A couple of lycra-clad roadies were riding their skinny-tired road bikes through the tunnel. The surface was extremely uneven, muddy, and slippery; what was wrong with these fools? I'm afraid my patience for careless road cyclists is nil at this point. I'm not one of that tribe anymore, not that I ever was a full-fledged "roadie."
I emerged from the tunnel and found that my anxiety was elevated. I'd try to quell it the rest of the day, but it never completely went away.
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I stopped in the first town and took a few pictures, but I wasn't in the mood to do much of that today. The trail went through several little towns; most of them I just rode through without looking at anything or getting the camera out.
After several miles, and after pushing the bike through a severely damaged section of the trail, I reached the second tunnel. At least I could see the light at the end of it.
Several cyclists of various levels of ability emerged from the tunnel. They seemed happy to be through it. I talked to one local man and mentioned that I was planning to stop in the Wisconsin Dells today. He was the first of several people in the next hours to warn me that staying there would likely be a mistake, since it was usually overrun with screaming, rowdy children brought there by their parents to enjoy the many water parks in the area. Apparently the Wisconsin Dells has an absolutely terrible reputation among locals because of the rowdy outsiders it attracts.
I rode more miles on the trail. Many, many miles. How sick I was of the trail and its soft, often damaged, surface. Still, I stuck with it.
The trail was quite narrow, at least compared to other rail trails I've ridden, such as the famous Katy Trail. I met a couple on one of those side by side bikes. They were taking up the whole width of the trail:
Once I approached a line of cyclists, presumably a family. For some reason, a young child was in front. I rode towards him as carefully as I could, but he still seemed to panic, and came to a stop. After I passed the group I turned around. The kid still had not been able to get going on his bike again:
One of the towns I stopped in was Kendall. I took a few photos, but didn't do anything else there.
I stopped at the trailhead in one town, whose name I've forgotten, and talked to some locals. I mentioned the Wisconsin Dells, and they wrinkled their noses and told me to avoid it if possible. So far it was unanimous that the place was a super-touristy nightmare.
I stopped in Wonewoc and purchased and drank a large Gatorade. There were a few nice murals, but I didn't explore the town any further. I just could not shake my anxious mood today, and didn't feel like looking at anything.
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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Common_snapping_turtle
1 month ago
The trail finally ended at Reedsburg. I needed to figure out where I was stopping today.
I walked into the trailhead office, which was also apparently the chamber of commerce office, to find that there was an extremely knowledgeable woman working there. She was in her 70s, was approximately 4'10, and was a big Reedsburg booster, trying to get me to stay at the Reedsburg Holiday Inn Express ("It's only two months old! I was there for the ribbon cutting! It's very nice!", etc.)
I told her I needed to go farther today, and said I'd originally planned to stay at the Wisconsin Dells, but had heard that it would likely be noisy.
Well. She had a very definite about that place. "We call the people who go there "F.I.B.'s", she said. "Effin Illinois Bastards!"
I found such a rude description hilarious coming from this polite, bird-like little woman. She suggested I stay at either Baraboo, or Portage, two towns which would likely be far enough away from the F.I.B.'s
So I mapped out a route to Baraboo, after calling the Best Western and confirming (in politer language) that the place was not overrun with the F.I.B.'s.
It was a relief to get off the unpaved trail and on to empty, smooth country roads where I could actually see more than trees.
I arrived in Baraboo without incident and checked into the Best Western there.
Two days left.
Today's ride: 75 miles (121 km)
Total: 2,534 miles (4,078 km)
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1 month ago
1 month ago
(Unless you already done got there)
And a great cruise on the SS Badger.
Much love to you & Joy.
1 month ago