March 12, 2022
Leipoldtville to Strandfontein - Today was a challenge in more ways than one!
Camping - Penny and I will part ways
Although I got up around 6:00am, Oenny was already gone. I hit the road around 7:00. I was met with a head wind right out the gate, but I just accepted it and pedaled in, although slower than I would have liked. I saw my first springbok today. Was cool to see them running through the field.
The Sishen-Saldanha railway line carries ore from the mines in Sishen to the northern cape. The rain line is over 500 miles long and isn’t used for any passenger traffic. The trains themselves are close to 400 cars long and are the longest production trains in the world. I was happy to get to see one. It really did go on forever!
Was also happy to reach the ocean and hear the waves crashing. If I have to deal with a headwind, may as well have great scenery.
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Never heard from Penny, but went ahead and messaged her as to my location. After a nice break enjoying delicious chicken pasta overlooking the ocean I set out on the service road. Good thing Nolene from the B&B told me where it was and that I’d have get by a security guard. It’s the service road for the railway so most cars aren’t allowed in. I’ll have the whole thing to myself at least.
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I was worried at first with some rolling hills, but the road didn’t seem to bad. I did have two times I though I might fall in some thick mud next to puddles but I stayed upright. Eventually the hills were minimal and if it weren’t for the headwind, I’d have made decent progress.
Up ahead I caught some movement and thought they were cows running. But why are the cows running funny and look like they are missing legs? Then I exclaimed out loud, “OMG, they’re ostriches!” I was so happy, but also noted, “ostriches are bigger then I remember.” I watched them for a bit, but this road is 20 miles long and I had to keep going. I was so happy though at my wildlife sightings so far. Later, I saw a few turtles in the road, plus one rather large lizard scurry across
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I took a break off the bike about 10 miles in. A guy had circled back at the first of three bridges to give me some directions. He mentioned he had ran in to another cyclist who had a sister following in a car. I knew he was referring to Leana Nieman. Small world. She’s the one who said the road was so bad. With all the rain, some of the sand had been compacted down.
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https://www.inaturalist.org/guides/6347
2 years ago
But then, the road took a turn for the worse and became very, very corrugated m. That means incredibly bumpy/bone jarring. I slowed down even more trying to pick a line down the road. The very side of the road was usually the best, but it was also the sandiest.
The fun of the road had worn off, but although tired, I was feeling strong. I was happy to arrive at bridge number 3 and be done with that section.
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Got a text from Penny saying she had decided to go a different route. Later talking to a shop owner he said it was recently graded so a much better road. I specifically remember asking Penny about our routing and how Leana had said this road was tough, but Penny said there was no other route. To say I was pissed was an understatement.
Stopped at what I thought was a mini mart but turned out to be a liquor store. A lot of people hanging around so didn’t want to leave my bike. Pretty sure the 30 seconds I was just inside the door someone swiped one of my water bottles. Could have fallen off on the bumpy road, but pretty sure I would have noticed it. Uuuuugh
I stopped at another store for an ice cream and about a mile later I see my front tire is going flat. I took a chance that it was a slow leak, so pumped it up twice to just make it the three miles to the campground and fix it there.
As soon as I arrived, I asked Penny about her routing and she says she had said last night she was going that way. Umm, perhaps you could have told your travel partner? I let her know I was beyond pissed offand needed some space. She immediately raises her voice and says, “You’ve had space all day. I can’t travel with you!” To which I replied, “I agree” we will go our separate ways and to leave it at that for now.
Note: which a it Penny? If everyone (but me) knew you were going the other way why did you agree to message me (each other) when we got to the railway road? You can’t be two places at once.
I went to the store as I knew they closed at 5:00 and when I got back she had moved her tent across the way. Once so got my chores done I went over and asked he why she moved her tent. Let’s just say her racism is alive and well. She didn’t want to be next to some black people that had pulled in next to us. I then gave her a piece of my mind about this whole trip. Hint: don’t invite someone to come tour with you in Africa (just because of Covid restrictions and you can’t go anywhere) and then not be willing to communicate and compromise to figure out how to make it work. I spotted the red flags on day 1 and have been increasingly concerned. I felt I had more to lose if we split so I have kept my mouth shut to keep her calm until we got more in the groove and figured out what did and didn’t work. But, enough is enough. I am not going to be continually disrespected and treated like I’m stupid. Don’t yell at me, don’t play games with me, and don’t lie to me.
I am scared to be on my own in Africa, but I will figure it out. For now, I will concentrate on getting through Namibia and to Victoria Falls.
I will also say, I did not appreciate her telling me her FB friends have a bet on how long I will last in Africa. If you’re the kind of person who participates in that or think it’s funny, then you’re not the kind of person I need in my life. I’ve made no secret Africa is out of my comfort zone, but people should be encouraging each other, not waiting to see if/when someone “fails,” and not making fun of me behind my back.
However this trip turns out, I am proud of myself for being willing to stand up for myself even if I am now on my own here with no immediate game plan. And it should also be noted I am proud of myself for conquering tough wind and road conditions. Go me!
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Can't wait to see your next installments!
2 years ago
2 years ago
Today's ride: 46 miles (74 km)
Total: 1,994 miles (3,209 km)
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2 years ago